The unofficial, non binding, carries no weight, 2021 forum knife possibility discussion thread

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i dont know what exactly you mean with ''in some way stabilized before use''

my guess is, that only some are stabilized (and described as stabilized) but most are not.
for example the
Northfield Un-X-LD - #86 Oil Field Jack - Stabilized Smooth White Bone

Mean that I don't understand what the process-if any- stabilization entails. Obviously, all bone is treated and cured in some way prior to use , you don't use it with the flesh & ligaments hanging off :D:eek: GEC at one time used Primitive Bone which was allegedly century old bovine material that had been exhumed from an abattoir's boneyard. Presumably, it was dried and cleaned, that might be all that stabilization is? Stag has certainly been treated, cured, torched, 'stabilized' and that still gets green with brass, as does CASE's Amber Bone.
 
Stamped blade with, "Flipper Bait".

Or laser engraved on the cover material. Like the office knife was done stating, "Flipper" on the mark side and "Booty" on the pile. Then take @waynorth 's pic from the previous page, add a pirate hat and etch that on the blade.

A knife only a mother or porchmember could love!!!
 
Mean that I don't understand what the process-if any- stabilization entails. Obviously, all bone is treated and cured in some way prior to use , you don't use it with the flesh & ligaments hanging off :D:eek: GEC at one time used Primitive Bone which was allegedly century old bovine material that had been exhumed from an abattoir's boneyard. Presumably, it was dried and cleaned, that might be all that stabilization is? Stag has certainly been treated, cured, torched, 'stabilized' and that still gets green with brass, as does CASE's Amber Bone.

I wonder if it’s not stabilized in a similar way to wood burl. On that case, resin is injected under high temperature and pressure into the material to fill any voids or pores.
 
I wonder if it’s not stabilized in a similar way to wood burl. On that case, resin is injected under high temperature and pressure into the material to fill any voids or pores.

''To stabilize the bone you need a vacuum pump and chamber. Place the bone in discardable containers, mix a thin and slow curing resign and cover the bone, pull a vacuum on it until all the air is out, release the vacuum and allow the resign to penetrate whilst still easy flowing liquid. Allow to dry and grind excess resign away. To stabilized and / or colour the bone, use the same process described above but add the colouring to the resign and mix well before adding the catalyst.''
 
The way to have "brassy" looking and functioning liners is to use UNS C46400 Naval Bronze in place of generic brass..... It is widely used in the electrical industry and many maritime applications...... It is readily available through any non ferrous metal supply house..... It won't "green-up" like the statue in your village square..... My familiarity with it came from building large AC motor and generator assemblies used in corrosive environments......
 
The ONLY time I have ever had any verdigris from brass is when I forget and leave them in a slip or sheath. It seems odd that some recommend a slip to avoid it??:eek: That just doesn't make sense to me.
I have a handful of white bone knives (and Stag) that I use and not one of them shows any green.
YMMV
 
Verdigris doesn’t bother me, to be honest. But white bone covers that turn a dull yellowish and just look “old”, do. (Go figure we’re all weird in some way!)

(Still rather choose smooth white bone over Osage for this knive though, and that’s coming from an admitted Osage fanboy who grew up chucking hedge apples at my friends and cousins in rural Kansas. Lol.)
 
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