The Whittling Corner

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I enjoy learning and practicing techniques as much as I enjoy making finished projects. I want to improve my face carving skills, particularly when using curved blades. So, I'm working my way through the Face Study on Triangle Block tutorial by Don Mertz (a.k.a. the Wood Bee Carver).

Here's my first attempt at the lower part of a face whittled using his techniques:

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The blade on the left is the small clip of a Case 6383 that I modified in an attempt to get closer to the scimitar shape that Mertz advocates. The blade on the right is the small clip of a Camillus 72, and is my usual whittling blade. I alternated between them as I was working on this study piece and enjoyed using them both.

I do need to spend some more time sharpening the Case blade. I don't think it's reached its full whittling potential yet.

I hope other people are getting some time to whittle, too. Have a good rest of your weekend everyone.
 
First project with my new seahorse whittler: a "cherry whistle". Made from a small branch from a wild cherry tree. For the dowel I used a smaller branch from the same tree and trimmed it for a tight friction fit. Once the wood dries I may need to glue it in place. It's pretty loud!

I've also bought some new blades for my coping saw and hope that I'll be able to use that to rough out some figures once I advance to that stage.

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Here is my output from the last few days. All these ideas come from the Whittling Handbook by Peter Benson. Along with my seahorse whittler are my second whistle (I messed the first one up experimenting with it and you can see I haven't trimmed the fipple on this one yet), a garden dibber (for planting small seeds) and a small fork. I thought it was amusing that the author says that if you are out camping or picnicking you can quickly make some forks. Ha! This tiny one took me several days to make, and I doubt if I'd have a coping saw along in the field for trimming between the tines. (Despite that minor complaint it's a very nice book.) All these were made from a branch of wild cherry.

The whitetail deer antler was found in the field while out checking to see if the ground was getting dry after several days of rain.

Trivia note: Dibber was the name of an "uneducated but sensible henchman" appearing in season 23 (1986) of Dr. Who.

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Fun stuff, A Ace Rimmer ! How are you liking the Case Seahorse now that you’ve had it for a while?

I’ve been splitting my whittling time lately between finishing up the penguin and ball-in-cage projects I started a long time ago and practicing spoon carving. Here are the two spoons I’ve been working on the past few days. Both are nearing completion.

CKrL5aOh.jpg
 
Fun stuff, A Ace Rimmer ! How are you liking the Case Seahorse now that you’ve had it for a while?

I’ve been splitting my whittling time lately between finishing up the penguin and ball-in-cage projects I started a long time ago and practicing spoon carving. Here are the two spoons I’ve been working on the past few days. Both are nearing completion.

CKrL5aOh.jpg

Neat stuff you're working on! I just got a new book (Complete Starter Guide to Whittling) and am working on a simple "jam spreader" from that out of a piece of hackberry. The wood is very fine and straight grained, although this piece comes from a sapling that came up in the wrong place. I don't know if an older piece from a larger branch would be as nice or not. I finally reprofiled the Wharncliffe blade and have it stropped to a "razor" edge (it will pop off a single arm hair with no sound or scraping or pulling). I'm finding the seahorse whittler to be comfortable in the hand, the Wharncliffe blade provides good leverage, and it holds an edge quite well. As per what I have read, I'm stropping the blade at least after each whittling session and I swear it seems to be getting sharper. I haven't reprofiled the small blades, just polished them on 2000 grit sandpaper and stropped them. I guess you could say that I'm quite pleased with it. :)

By the way, do you know what a sawhorse is? That's the past tense of seahorse. ;)o_O:confused::cool:
 
Fun stuff, A Ace Rimmer ! How are you liking the Case Seahorse now that you’ve had it for a while?

I’ve been splitting my whittling time lately between finishing up the penguin and ball-in-cage projects I started a long time ago and practicing spoon carving. Here are the two spoons I’ve been working on the past few days. Both are nearing completion.

CKrL5aOh.jpg
Very nice! I've got to try a spoon sometime. Maybe I'll have more time this summer.
While testing out my set of Antoinini knives, I played at whittling on a little stick. I kind of liked the chisel ground blade, and the handle is very comfortable. Antonini whittle.jpg
 
Neat stuff you're working on! I just got a new book (Complete Starter Guide to Whittling) and am working on a simple "jam spreader" from that out of a piece of hackberry. The wood is very fine and straight grained, although this piece comes from a sapling that came up in the wrong place. I don't know if an older piece from a larger branch would be as nice or not. I finally reprofiled the Wharncliffe blade and have it stropped to a "razor" edge (it will pop off a single arm hair with no sound or scraping or pulling). I'm finding the seahorse whittler to be comfortable in the hand, the Wharncliffe blade provides good leverage, and it holds an edge quite well. As per what I have read, I'm stropping the blade at least after each whittling session and I swear it seems to be getting sharper. I haven't reprofiled the small blades, just polished them on 2000 grit sandpaper and stropped them. I guess you could say that I'm quite pleased with it. :)

Glad you're enjoying the seahorse. I've had a similar experience with stropping. After I reset the edge angle nice and acute for whittling, the carving ability keeps improving the more I strop.

By the way, do you know what a sawhorse is? That's the past tense of seahorse. ;)o_O:confused::cool:

Ugh. :D

Very nice! I've got to try a spoon sometime. Maybe I'll have more time this summer.
While testing out my set of Antoinini knives, I played at whittling on a little stick. I kind of liked the chisel ground blade, and the handle is very comfortable. View attachment 871123

Thanks, and it's great to see you doing some whittling again.

I'm really enjoying spoon carving, but, careful, it's habit forming. ;). I find this short video of a Barn the Spoon carving to be inspirational. In fact, the larger, asymmetric cooking spoon I showed above is inspired by his design that he's carving there. He also has a subscription site that has a lot of high-quality instructional videos that I've found useful and inspiring.
 
I'm really enjoying spoon carving, but, careful, it's habit forming. ;). I find this short video of a Barn the Spoon carving to be inspirational. In fact, the larger, asymmetric cooking spoon I showed above is inspired by his design that he's carving there. He also has a subscription site that has a lot of high-quality instructional videos that I've found useful and inspiring.
Thanks for the link. I think it's the scooping part that has me intimidated. Maybe I'll start with a spatula. :)
 
Thanks for the link. I think it's the scooping part that has me intimidated. Maybe I'll start with a spatula. :)

r8shell don't be afraid! This is fun. And if you foul up really bad, it will burn.

I teach lots of people to carve spoons (among other things). There are lots of YouTube videos on the subject. Some are quite helpful. Sometimes people over think this though.
Here are a few tips:

Get good wood. NOT A 2X4!!! Not western Red Cedar, or Redwood either. Green (as in fresh from the log - not color) Birch is best. If you live somewhere where birch is not available, some kind of Maple or Alder will work too. Again, better if it is wet. Aspen and cottonwood are not so good. Fruit woods are good but difficult for beginners.
Ask a local arborist for help in finding wood. These guys know wood and trees and usually really like the idea that someone will do something creative with the wood that they have to cut down.
Study some metal or plastic spoons that you have to notice that spoons are not very deep in the bowl. Ladles are deep, spoons no, so a lot of hollowing is not necessary.
Mostly I find that a gouge is easier to use for hollowing out the bowl than a bent knife, and more useful for other things too. Bent knives are traditional because the technology required to make a bent knife is considerably less involved that that needed to make a gouge, so primitive societies tend to use bent knives. a #7 gouge about 20mm wide will enable you to make a lot of spoons. If you do want to do ladles, you will need a short bent gouge (also called a spoon gouge) to get down deep. Start with spoons.
Cheap gouges will drive you nuts! Good gouges will cost upwards of 30.00 each. Sets that sell for 35.00 for several gouges are an utter waste of money. Go to woodcarvingbiz.com to see lots of gouges.
The best thing I have read on the subject of spoon carving is Swedish Carving Techniques by Willi Sundqvist.
A great source for spoon carving stuff is Pinewood Forge. The above book and hook knives (about the best there are!) come from these people.
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I concur with Mr Chips, Swedish Carving Techniques is a fabulous book.
Y''all make me want to find some time to get some whittling done.
I also find that the more I strop the better the edge gets for whittling...up to a certain point when it gets just too convexed for very fine detail work. Then I flatten the bevel out again at 2k, then go back up to 10 k and strop.
Great work guys!
 
I cut down a 7m Photinia at my parents last year. It has very hard wood which i think will burn hot. I started with some sticks and nearly have a chess set for my son now.The wood is very light in colour. These are dyed with black ink. All I used is the sheepsfoot on my 15 scout. ....and some sandpaper to smooth em off a bit.
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So this spoon carving talk got me to thinking.
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The shape of the duck minus the head is similar to a spoon. hmm (No I'm not going to behead the duck.)
I bought two of these when I ordered
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Some more measuring, and it looks like a spoon on the end might be possible. But there are some problems. The first is that the knife handle at it's widest is 1 3/16 in. the small spoons in my kitchen drawer are 1 3/8 in. So it's a little narrow. The top of the spoon bowl will need to be in the center of the handle blank where it is the widest. This means hitting the knife blade slot when carving the bowl is probable. A plug can be glued into the slot, but that means the blade will have to be shortened. That was going to happen anyway.
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These spoon carving knives were the tools of choice for this project. The Sloyd knife did all of the stock removal and outside shaping. The three curved knives were used inside the spoon bowl.
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O.B.
 
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Bas relief, basswood and watercolor pencils. (Actually, Inktense pencils. They are similar to watercolor pencils but are permanent once they dry.) Case seahorse whittler in smooth chestnut bone SS.

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Nice! I always enjoy your bas reliefs.

I'm going to have to try Inktense pencils. I once tried using a red sharpie to color something, but the ink kept transferrin to things that rubbed against the piece, even after finishing with a mixture of mineral oil and wax.

Some more measuring, and it looks like a spoon on the end might be possible. But there are some problems. The first is that the knife handle at it's widest is 1 3/16 in. the small spoons in my kitchen drawer are 1 3/8 in. So it's a little narrow. The top of the spoon bowl will need to be in the center of the handle blank where it is the widest. This means hitting the knife blade slot when carving the bowl is probable. A plug can be glued into the slot, but that means the blade will have to be shortened. That was going to happen anyway.
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These spoon carving knives were the tools of choice for this project. The Sloyd knife did all of the stock removal and outside shaping. The three curved knives were used inside the spoon bowl.
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O.B.

What a great idea! Well done! Thanks for sharing the thought process that you went through as you conceived the idea, identified the challenges, and came up with solutions.

That's a nice set of Pinewood Forge knives. They make an excellent product, don't they?
 
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Nice! I always enjoy your bad reliefs.

Wow, I hope that is just a typo! :confused:;):) I'm in no way an artist, but a while back got on a kick about trying to do some pencil drawing and a bit of coloring just to learn about it and flex my mental muscles and learn a new skill. I bought a small set of Derwent Inktense pencils and also a small set of Derwent Watercolour pencils (their spelling, not mine :p ). Both work the same; apply the pencil and paint over it with water (see YouTube for instructions). I haven't tried the Watercolo{u}r on wood yet, but the Inktense works well. My brother-in-law is both a dentist and an artist working in many different media. He explained to me that "bas relief" just a fancy French term for "low relief".
 
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