Thermite modding ...

Joined
Sep 12, 2005
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101
I normally carry a Spyderco (have several), but I could not resist trying out the Kershaw Thermite.

Extremely sharp out of the box, but blade was not centered, I did not like the blade assist (specially at closing time - hated to "work" to close it), and it was just plain heavy!

Since it is such a low cost knife, I did not feel bad about experimenting a little :)

Bone-stock, compared to my Milie:
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Of course when removing the assist "spring", one must drill so that the liner lock can "bite" into the blade and keep it closed:
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Align mill as best as possible:
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I got lucky position-wise, but the first attempt was a little too shallow:
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So I had to re-align again, and try once more:
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Now I have full engagement on the detent ball. First open, then fully closed:
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My next mod was the enlarge the area to engage the lock - purely ergonomic reasons:
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Much better now:
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But that leaves a hole since that area of the scale was hollow (for the assist spring). So I am using 2-part epoxy to fill that void, and also to make a one piece (along with the steel liner) for the next operation:
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I had two do it in two sessions:
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Now I can proceed to make the holes to take weight off:
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I also did an internal cut on the scale opposite to the lock, which is hidden from the outside:
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Cleaned up the edges:
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But it was still not "quite" light enough:
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So I made up some Titanium spacers to replace the plastic piece between the two scales:
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Had to make a custom sleeve since my chuck won't hold stock that thin:
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Then drill and trim each of the 3x spacers:
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Still have a little bit of epoxy to clean up on the bottom scale, but this is how the spacers look in place:
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And yes, it is lighter in weight now:
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Still need to do some work on that pocket clip - don't like it too much.
 
I often imagine myself trying some modding and then I see someone explain how he did it and see the equipment that was used and I realize why I haven't done any myself. Without the proper tools and equipment, I'd just end of ruining a perfectly decent knife.
 
I wanted a little bit more grip in the back spine, so using a round head end mill, I grooved the back side:
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Still at 3.9oz - not much removed to make a difference, but much better grip now.
 
Thats probably the coolest Thermite in existence lol One of the things I really like is how you drilled all the way thru the frame :thumbup:
 
Good lord you made that knife awesome. The handle holes are weird, but the mods are just sweet.
 
I just completed the second Thermite. Here are some photos from the build.


I started by sanding and scuffing the two parts to be epoxied:
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Then used JB weld, and oiled the screws so that they would not get permanently attached:
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To line up the two half's I used the long screws:
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Once I had everything aligned, I clamped, removed as much excess as I could, clean holes/pockets, etc.:
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This is why I used JB weld - I want to use these ceramic wheel bearings and a portion would need to be supported due to the hollow scale (for the spring assist):
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So I measured the thickness of the original bronze washer against the ball bearing washer:
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As expected, once I cut the pocket, the bearing one of the scales would rest on the G10, so I also purchased these to use behind the wheel bearings (I wish these were like 0.010" instead!):
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Once I center the mill, I can then cut the pocket. Since these washers are more than 0.010", I can't quite cut as deep as I would like, so there will be a slight gap (more on that later):
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Yes, the pocket is slightly larger than the new bearing, but that was the size of the closest end mill I had at hand:
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Then do the other scale (solid steel), and assemble to check my handi work:
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Here is the back, with the slight gap I mentioned (roughly 0.020"):
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Note that even on the steel scale I need the thin hardened spacer since a portion of the bearing would be exposed otherwise:
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As with the first Thermite, I have to drill the hardened steel blade to create a stop to hold the blade closed (since I removed the spring assist stuff):
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Maybe not Space Shuttle accurate, but close enough:
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As before I cut the spine for better grip:
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But I made the cuts near the end more shallow, since then activating the flipper edge, the original cuts were a little too deep and slow down the finger somewhat (the cuts were almost "too effective" !!!):
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Did the back, but also a little bit on the other side for improved grip/ergonomics:
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I "really" like this asymmetrical cuts in the top "much" better:
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Now to work on the other area that needs (my opinion) work - the thickness and the "design" on the G10 scale:
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And I applied a new pattern:
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Much better feel/ergonomics and much better (my opinion) looks as well:
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Close up of the two bearing "systems". The ball bearings are AWESOME in action. So much smoother and effortless, it is hard to describe:
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After using it for just one day, I realized that the smooth scale is just too slippery, compared to the new one I made on the G10 side, so .....
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Unlike the G10, which I made flat first (before cutting the new pattern), the steel scale is not "flat", but I did not want to remove any thickness and I wanted to preserved the stonewashed finish. So as a result, the new pattern is not quite perfect (second photo, lanyard side of the knife), but it turned out OK:
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Like before, I enlarged the finger opening (better ergonomics for me):
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And now I have my $25 dollar knife ready for more daily use. I have a few other, more expensive knives, with much better steel, etc., but this one now is "special" to me:
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Will
 
Wow. You, sir have some cool toys in your shop and the skills to do some cool stuff with them.

Those look nice.
 
Aston doing work on such a cheap knife. Imagine what you can do with something like a ZT 566!
 
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