Thinking of Switching to Straight Razor over Safety Razor...

[St33L]

I've been thinking of switching to a straight razor, and thought that knife enthusiasts on here would probably have had used one or at least considered using one. Currently I use a disposable safety razor, but it has always given me a not-so-close shave unless it's brand new. Even then, I still feel some hairs when I run my hands through my face.

I tried a Parker butterfly razor once, and it's just not for me - I don't like replacing the blade and fiddling with it, and prefer a more simple solution. I think that a straight razor would work, but I've never tried it but always considered using one in the back of my mind. I'm sure it'll be slower than using a safety razor, especially at first to carefully perform the shave given more metal behind the edge than what's on disposable razors... and even after getting used to the routine it'll be relatively slower. And, no I don't want to use my folders as they have sharp tips, as I'm not as manly as some of you folks on here... Anyway, I may go custom but will probably start with a decent production model to try out and then decide if it's better than a safety razor for me, and to also determine what sort of features work best for me. I may even save more money in the long run if the blade lasts me for at least several years.

I'll have to look into the specifics as far as the badger hair brush, shaving cream and bowl, dedicated strop, etc.; but if you can please share your thoughts and experiences on the blade/straight razor itself and not the accessories, I'd appreciate it. Namely, 1) what type of grind do you find best?, 2) is it more ergonomic to have the traditional curved handles seen on traditional straight razors?, 3) are friction folders the best? That's all of the type of folders I can find 4) is there a specific profile that you like best? I'm guessing all of these profiles will not have much of a pointed tip, if at all, and 5) what is the best steel you have found?

Maybe this will be a new daily, morning routine I can look forward to.

Thanks in advance to all.



Moderators: I know that there is a dedicated razor sub-forum, but it's underutilized and there are hardly any threads there. I'm putting it in the General Knife Discussion forum in order to gather as much feedback and info as possible. So, if this thread can be left here, I would appreciate it. Anyway, thanks and sorry if this really shouldn't belong here.

 

[joshf128]

The general recommendation is to start with a good vintage blade that has been properly honed. Whipped Dog has some good starter sets that will get you on the right path. Great brushes there too. You will definitely need a brush and good soap/cream. Barbasol with a straight razor would not end well. Another critical component is a strop to keep the blade sharp and clean.

It is very rewarding to learn and I enjoy it very much. Check out Badger & Blade or Straight Razor Place forums for some great information and support/advice as those are more targeted towards shaving.

Good luck!

 

[marcinek]

nevermind....

 

[St33L]

And, what about fixed blade straight razors? Not just the folding kind... either will probably work for me.

Also, instead of a sheath, maybe it's better to put a fixed blade on a stand to leave on the bathroom counter (for much better and necessary moisture precipitation, I take it?).

Though, I'd think that a folder can be put on a stand, too (at home), but has the added benefit of traveling by air with it on vacation w/o a sheath - checked baggage, of course...

Here are some fixed blade straight razor examples I found on the 'net:

 

[ocnLogan]

The general recommendation is to start with a good vintage blade that has been properly honed. Whipped Dog has some good starter sets that will get you on the right path. Great brushes there too. You will definitely need a brush and good soap/cream. Barbasol with a straight razor would not end well. Another critical component is a strop to keep the blade sharp and clean.

It is very rewarding to learn and I enjoy it very much. Check out Badger & Blade or Straight Razor Place forums for some great information and support/advice as those are more targeted towards shaving.

Good luck!

+1.

I got mine from whipped dog, and have been quite happy with it so far. Been using.mine for ~4 years now.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

Moved to the Razors, Scissors, & Personal Grooming forum.

 

[St33L]

The general recommendation is to start with a good vintage blade that has been properly honed. Whipped Dog has some good starter sets that will get you on the right path. Great brushes there too. You will definitely need a brush and good soap/cream. Barbasol with a straight razor would not end well. Another critical component is a strop to keep the blade sharp and clean.

It is very rewarding to learn and I enjoy it very much. Check out Badger & Blade or Straight Razor Place forums for some great information and support/advice as those are more targeted towards shaving.

Good luck!

Thanks, I'll have to read up on those!

 

[strategy9]

I haven't shaved in a while, and have decided I won't until I get my hands on a specific vintage SR, (a Sherman Cutlery, from keyport NJ), but I do use Straights when I do, even to just shape up my beard.

The initial investment seems high, but over the long run, it really does pay off because you won't have to "keep" buying most of the stuff, and with proper care, a good couple razors will last you a life time!

I always recommend going vintage, you can get a decent turn of the century blade for a decent price, and pay $30 or so to have it professionally honed. For $100 or less you got your first great straight to start with, and if you dont like it, you can resell it without much loss or stick it a drawer somewhere as an heirloom. Reason i recommend it is that pretty much all the ones from Sheffield England, Solingen Germany, or USA made, were great razors. Sweden and France also made some quality steel, but they seem to be a bit more hit or miss with certain users... Could just be personal preference, idk, I've never used either.

A good razor (properly honed) and a dedicated (quality) strop (with compound) is all you really "need" to get started. If a razor is properly honed to begin with, with just regular proper stropping you can probably go 2 months or maybe even longer depending on how coarse your hair is. How often your shaving, and if your shaving your full face or just your neck and shape up. After about 2 mos. (Maybe a month and a half if you full shave every day, with coarse hair) minor honing will be required to reset the edge. (A nice 7 day set will last you around a year); At that point though, you'll have a better idea of whether of not it's for you, and whether or not you wish to proceed with it, not to mention you'll have money saved up for 2nd razor, or a hone to go along with rehoning the 1st one, and two then will last you even longer...

You actually can use regular shaving cream, it's really not as bad as previously suggested: its not the best, but it certainly works. You can also use hair conditioner, I actually use it often for shape ups because it's clear, and I can see my lines better.

But a good shaving soap does improve the experience; and with that you do need a good brush. (As for a soap "dish", you can certainly find a mug or bowl in your house you can use, not something you " need" persay... Help save you a few bucks while you see if you even like it, gauge interest, before going all in with the bells and whistles like a soap warmer, barbers hone, etc.)

Grind and tip are things you'll build your own preference for as you go. 5/8 will handle the requirements of most daily users, larger/heavier works better for heavier hair. Smaller I'd highly recommend against.

I can't stress enough PROPERLY HONED
-a razor is not a knife, and just because it shaved your arm hairs like a really sharp knife, (it's a very fine edge), does not mean it won't nic you up, burn you up, and leave you a bloody pimply red sire mess if the edge wasn't proper, and had small nicks and such in it.

I'm sure I missed a ton, some may disagree with some of what i said, but for a guy who's at square one, that's a bunch of real basic nutshell knowledge for you move forward with expound upon...

Something to keep in mind regarding getting started with the minimum, everything you buy brand new and then open the package and use, drops greatly in value in the event you realize it's not for you.
A nice patina'd $30 vintage razor, cleaned up and professionally honed for $30 to start with, is easily still worth $50-60 resale if not more depending on maker and finding the right buyer.and the strop (stones) you can repurpose for your Knives. No sense in throwing awaybmoney only to find out a month in that it's not for you, and now your out $50-100 you can't get back on resale.

 

[frankster]

My advise is to buy several septic pencils while you learn how to shave with a straight razor.

 

[rramjet]

I learned how to shave with a straight razor just by watching a guy do it on you tube. After watching it I thought, "I can do that!". Been using a straight razor ever since. Never cut myself either.
I say go for it, you are a knife guy after all.

 

[gadgetgeek]

first up, grab a decent brush (omega, vulfix, or the like) and a selection of soaps. Once you get those down, you'll already be getting better shaves. From there work your way into straights if you like, or move to a double edge razor, and then to straights.
Also lock the bathroom door, and keep your phone on silent. just saying.

 

[joshf128]

My advise is to buy several septic pencils while you learn how to shave with a straight razor.

Gotta love autocorrect. I'm sure you meant Styptic pencils! And yes, you need one.

Another word of caution to knife guys: knife sharp is not straight razor sharp. From my understanding 1000 grit is considered pretty fine for knives but will chew up your face from a razor. 12000 grit is generally considered a finished razor edge which then needs to be stopped before use. Watch straight razor specific sharpening videos to learn techniques since it is a little different than normal knife sharpening.

I am new to these forums and have been learning a lot about knives thanks to you kind gentlemen and just trying to return the favor with my limited knowledge of straight razor shaving.

 

[BobbyH]

I'll have to look into the specifics as far as the badger hair brush, shaving cream and bowl, dedicated strop, etc.; but if you can please share your thoughts and experiences on the blade/straight razor itself and not the accessories, I'd appreciate it. Namely, 1) what type of grind do you find best?, 2) is it more ergonomic to have the traditional curved handles seen on traditional straight razors?, 3) are friction folders the best? That's all of the type of folders I can find 4) is there a specific profile that you like best? I'm guessing all of these profiles will not have much of a pointed tip, if at all, and 5) what is the best steel you have found?

Maybe this will be a new daily, morning routine I can look forward to.

Thanks in advance to all.

The type of grind is a personal preference thing. There is no universal best grind. I do use SRs with grinds from extra hollow ground to near wedges and so long as they are suitably shaving sharp, not knife sharp, all shave well. The different grinds feel and sound different when shaving so you really have to try some different grinds to see what you like personally.

Traditional SRs have evolved from the 1700s till now so the traditional looks of the current SRs are there for good and valid reasons tested by time. They simply work as is.

There are a variety of blade profiles to choose from some of which can have a sharp point that if you are sloppy can leave you with a nice dueling scare, cut ear lobes and the like. They are best avoided by beginners, until you really know what you are doing, in favour of a round tip. Be ware of heels that are pointed for the same reason. Traditional SRs have a heel profile that is rounded for a reason.

As far as the best steel goes, any of the traditional steels used in making SRs are fine as is. Again they have evolved and been refined for a couple of centuries. No real sense in re inventing the wheel.

A properly made SR could conceivably last a person their lifetime. That is if you don't damage it, usually by dropping it, or letting it rust beyond repair.

Bob

 

[gadgetgeek]

I think that the ergonomics are more in the total weight, and the balance between the handle and blade, than in the shape. But that's me, and that feel is very personal. A heavy blade can compensate for a bit less sharpness, but a light blade can be less taxing on the fingers.

 

[St33L]

I haven't shaved in a while, and have decided I won't until I get my hands on a specific vintage SR, (a Sherman Cutlery, from keyport NJ), but I do use Straights when I do, even to just shape up my beard.

The initial investment seems high, but over the long run, it really does pay off because you won't have to "keep" buying most of the stuff, and with proper care, a good couple razors will last you a life time!

I always recommend going vintage, you can get a decent turn of the century blade for a decent price, and pay $30 or so to have it professionally honed. For $100 or less you got your first great straight to start with, and if you dont like it, you can resell it without much loss or stick it a drawer somewhere as an heirloom. Reason i recommend it is that pretty much all the ones from Sheffield England, Solingen Germany, or USA made, were great razors. Sweden and France also made some quality steel, but they seem to be a bit more hit or miss with certain users... Could just be personal preference, idk, I've never used either.

A good razor (properly honed) and a dedicated (quality) strop (with compound) is all you really "need" to get started. If a razor is properly honed to begin with, with just regular proper stropping you can probably go 2 months or maybe even longer depending on how coarse your hair is. How often your shaving, and if your shaving your full face or just your neck and shape up. After about 2 mos. (Maybe a month and a half if you full shave every day, with coarse hair) minor honing will be required to reset the edge. (A nice 7 day set will last you around a year); At that point though, you'll have a better idea of whether of not it's for you, and whether or not you wish to proceed with it, not to mention you'll have money saved up for 2nd razor, or a hone to go along with rehoning the 1st one, and two then will last you even longer...

You actually can use regular shaving cream, it's really not as bad as previously suggested: its not the best, but it certainly works. You can also use hair conditioner, I actually use it often for shape ups because it's clear, and I can see my lines better.

But a good shaving soap does improve the experience; and with that you do need a good brush. (As for a soap "dish", you can certainly find a mug or bowl in your house you can use, not something you " need" persay... Help save you a few bucks while you see if you even like it, gauge interest, before going all in with the bells and whistles like a soap warmer, barbers hone, etc.)

Grind and tip are things you'll build your own preference for as you go. 5/8 will handle the requirements of most daily users, larger/heavier works better for heavier hair. Smaller I'd highly recommend against.

I can't stress enough PROPERLY HONED
-a razor is not a knife, and just because it shaved your arm hairs like a really sharp knife, (it's a very fine edge), does not mean it won't nic you up, burn you up, and leave you a bloody pimply red sire mess if the edge wasn't proper, and had small nicks and such in it.

I'm sure I missed a ton, some may disagree with some of what i said, but for a guy who's at square one, that's a bunch of real basic nutshell knowledge for you move forward with expound upon...

Something to keep in mind regarding getting started with the minimum, everything you buy brand new and then open the package and use, drops greatly in value in the event you realize it's not for you.
A nice patina'd $30 vintage razor, cleaned up and professionally honed for $30 to start with, is easily still worth $50-60 resale if not more depending on maker and finding the right buyer.and the strop (stones) you can repurpose for your Knives. No sense in throwing awaybmoney only to find out a month in that it's not for you, and now your out $50-100 you can't get back on resale.

Thanks for your sound and very comprehensive advice, strategy9. I'll be sure to try out a nice vintage/antique one that's properly honed. I'll probably end up liking straight razors, but I'm all for smooth consumption - there's no harm in trying out something that's more reasonably priced than jumping into a custom one right off the bat.

 

[St33L]

The type of grind is a personal preference thing. There is no universal best grind. I do use SRs with grinds from extra hollow ground to near wedges and so long as they are suitably shaving sharp, not knife sharp, all shave well. The different grinds feel and sound different when shaving so you really have to try some different grinds to see what you like personally.

Traditional SRs have evolved from the 1700s till now so the traditional looks of the current SRs are there for good and valid reasons tested by time. They simply work as is.

There are a variety of blade profiles to choose from some of which can have a sharp point that if you are sloppy can leave you with a nice dueling scare, cut ear lobes and the like. They are best avoided by beginners, until you really know what you are doing, in favour of a round tip. Be ware of heels that are pointed for the same reason. Traditional SRs have a heel profile that is rounded for a reason.

As far as the best steel goes, any of the traditional steels used in making SRs are fine as is. Again they have evolved and been refined for a couple of centuries. No real sense in re inventing the wheel.

A properly made SR could conceivably last a person their lifetime. That is if you don't damage it, usually by dropping it, or letting it rust beyond repair.

Bob

Thanks Bob for the direct Q&A - if I eventually go the custom route, I'm considering going with a super steel like M390. And, given that an SR can really last a lifetime, I'll use and treat it well so that it may end up one day as an heirloom piece. So, I may as well "go all out" with the custom SR. But, I will definitely have to try out some of the different varieties of SR already on the market to absorb as much info as possible before naively committing to a custom.

And, I'll have to get the traditional SRs (folding and non-folding) already available on the market in different grinds to see what really suits my shaving preferences.

 

[St33L]

first up, grab a decent brush (omega, vulfix, or the like) and a selection of soaps. Once you get those down, you'll already be getting better shaves. From there work your way into straights if you like, or move to a double edge razor, and then to straights.
Also lock the bathroom door, and keep your phone on silent. just saying.

Yeah, this set up is going to be a huge step up from what I'm doing now - lather from bar soap! One day I ran out of the shaving cream most people get (the Barbasol aersol can type) and found the next closest substitute. It seemed to work just as well for me to get the same level of cut (though still not as close a shave as I want). So, I stuck with it, esp. considering how easily available and portable it is. But, from what I gather, a solid brush and a better, dedicated SR cream seem to be a necessary complement to an SR to get that really close shave. I'll have to figure out the setup with the accessories as I find the right SR.

 

[ToddS]

In my experience, the most popular size and grind is 6/8 and quarter or half-hollow. Small lightweight razors (4/8 or 5/8 full hollow) are very difficult to learn to shave with unless you have a lightweight beard. Square ends are great for trimming around beards and mustaches, but not great for learning to shave.

I shave every morning with a straight and it takes me no longer than shaving with a DE.

I would always recommend a new razor from someone who hones & guarantees shave ready if you can afford $150-$200.
Another option is a Feather Artist Club - the come in both folding and kamisori style.