This poor-poor Buck 110...

Very nice for a first time try! The green stuff is called verdigris it comes from storing the brass in the leather sheath that is what the bolsters are made of, if you did not know. It will continue if you store the knife in the leather sheath. I keep my valued knives in pouches with dessicant to absorb moisture. I also do keep a few out in the open on stands my brother in law made for me out of wood. They do not tarnish being out in the open. I hope this starts you off on hunting more 110's down.
 
Thanks! About collecting 110's. This is the second one I've owned. The first one I bought at Patch Barracks, Germany, when I was serving at Panzer Kaserne with the 16th Infantry. The year was 1976. Had it stolen a year later. I still miss that knife!
 
Good looking blade again, well done Sir !

I hope you will enjoy the knife, I know I would šŸ˜Š

~Wouter
 
Nice job on the repair. If I am storing a brass bolstered knife in a leather sheath I wrap a piece of wax paper around the knife before I put it back in the sheath. That has worked for years now for me. OH
 
jbmonkey said:
how do ya figure? they are very close in chemical makeup. I cant see how 420hc is better than 425m?
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I only have one Buck that I know is 425m.

I do prefer the 420HC. Much easier to get a sharp edge.

I have an easier time sharpening 440c, and cpm154, or ats34, vg10, vg1, AEBL, D2, CPM3v, A2, 5160, and many, many, many more steels than the 425M....

It is weirdly sticky, and hard to get to a clean, crisp apex....

420HC sharpens like a dream compared to the 425m.
 
Bigfattyt said:
I only have one Buck that I know is 425m.

I do prefer the 420HC. Much easier to get a sharp edge.

I have an easier time sharpening 440c, and cpm154, or ats34, vg10, vg1, AEBL, D2, CPM3v, A2, 5160, and many, many, many more steels than the 425M....

It is weirdly sticky, and hard to get to a clean, crisp apex....

420HC sharpens like a dream compared to the 425m.
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dont know, but that may be due to the edge 2000 on 420hc over the old edges which were very obtuse and more difficult to sharpen. also since they have wider edges....they never cut or felt as sharp due to wider geometry of the edge which was done less for slicing and more for durability. the edge 2000 was done for better slicing and easier sharpening. that may not apply to you, but I dont find 425m any harder to sharpen than 420hc other than the old factory edge vs. edge 2000.
 
Buck also reprofiles blades. I have sent a few in and made sure to note it in the paperwork. They do it a lot quicker and better than I can.
 
I have a 301 with 425m flat ground and it takes a nice edge. Using diamond sharpeners it is about the same as sharpening the 420hc and the edge retention is very close to the same. I think the 425m does better when Iā€™m using it on tough materials. But the 420hc hollow grind 301 is better slicing meat and softer stuff.
 
Old Hunter said:
Nice job on the repair. If I am storing a brass bolstered knife in a leather sheath I wrap a piece of wax paper around the knife before I put it back in the sheath. That has worked for years now for me. OH
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Good tip. If the knife were separate from the sheath, I'd be concerned they would get separated permanently! Kim
 
kfields said:
Well I worked on it last night ....Here is the after:
W6ykAsm.jpg
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you really need to reentitle the post to
"one lucky 110".
its a true story of love, hope and salvation
good job!
its such an inspiring tale of bringing
life back to the condemn.
this world could use more folks who believe
in giving the forgotten a second chance.
bravo!
 
I found a 110 at a garage sale for $5. Blade had a broken tip and what looked like electrical damage. Scales were cracked and warped. I reprofiled the blade into a drop point to get rid of the damage and put black ebony scales on it. I also rounded and thinned the handle a bit so it feels really nice in hand. One of my favorite go to knives now.
 
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