Thuya & Amboyna wood... do they need to be stabilized?

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Jul 30, 2008
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For a usin' knife, does Thuya need to be stabilized?

How about Amboyna?

Other than "weight", how can I tell if Amboyna has been stabilized? (I have some that is obviously heavier than the others).

Thanks for your insights/experience.
 
Thuya ( pronounced Two-yuh) doesn't stabilize well.
Amboyina usually takes stabilization just fine. The stabilization makes the pattern pop when sanded and buffed.
 
Amboyna benefits from stabilization and takes the stabilant well (at least MMA)

Thuya burl is arguably the most beautiful of all woods - and it has a nasty habit of cracking with age. It can be stabilized, if you are willing to accept some significant losses in the process. It is one of those woods best stabilized by someone with decades of experince.

Rob!
 
The problem with thuya is that the wood may weep a sticky resin for as much as a year after stabilization. Soaking in acetone for a few weeks prior to stabilization may help, but I have rarely thought that the wood really needed stabilization. Cracking in Thuya is often caused by sanding too hard or buffing. The heat will set the process in action and it will show up sooner or later. Slow belt speed, and hand sanding to a final finish usually prevents problems.
 
You can also expect to pay extra to have the thuya done. It will weep so lots of times its the last to go thru the solution.

L
 
I agree both woods benefit from being stabilized. When I buy Thuya that is stabilized I leave it on the shelf for a long time before even considering using it.

bladsmth - Interesting point on Thuya and cracking, I didn't know that. learn something new every day. I always grind handles more slowly so I think I am good.

Sean
 
Yep WSSI gets my vote as well. They are who I prefer for all wood stabilizing.

Whenever I find stabilized Thuya Burl it has always been done by them.

Sean
 
The problem with thuya is that the wood may weep a sticky resin for as much as a year after stabilization. Soaking in acetone for a few weeks prior to stabilization may help, but I have rarely thought that the wood really needed stabilization.

Have you tried the acetone trick yourself? Or heard from others that this is a good move prior to stabilization? I have 6 blocks and am willing to soak a couple for a few weeks if you are fairly confident it's a good move in preparation for stabilization and won't adversely affect the pieces (I realize wood is a crap shoot at some level anyway).

Thanks for your insights...

Post script: have one block in an acetone bath as I type. Will let 'er soak for a week or more to see what evolves. Will also call WSSI to get their opinion... thanks for the ideas.
 
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I use a different prep. I leave then overnight at 200 - 250F in the oven, I lose about 33% to cracking, but the rest stabilize well. Caution - this can be hazardous to your marriage.

Rob!
 
I soaked 6 blocks of Thuya in acetone for a week. That removed a lot of resin/sap.

[Post Script: I let them dry outside for a couple days... and then... :D ]

Then I cooked them in the toaster oven for maybe an hour at a low temp, 180F on this oven. That caused more resin to come to the surface.

I then soaked in acetone again for a day [PS, dried them out... then] rebaked for an hour, and they seem to be clean. Looks good so far.

Will send to WSSI and see how they come out.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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I soaked 6 blocks of Thuya in acetone for a week. That removed a lot of resin/sap.

Then I cooked them in the toaster oven for maybe an hour at a low temp, 180F on this oven. That caused more resin to come to the surface.

I then soaked in acetone again for a day, and rebaked for an hour, and they seem to be clean. Looks good so far.

Will send to WSSI and see how they come out.

Thanks for the suggestions.

:eek:Sounds like an explosion waiting to happen, evaporating acetone and electricity not a good combination in my eyes.

Richard
 
:eek:Sounds like an explosion waiting to happen, evaporating acetone and electricity not a good combination in my eyes.

Richard

I have to admit it hadn't ocurred to me - and in the kitchen oven, that could be bad - but now you've got me wondering how we could make the same thing COOL!

smilingdevil.gif


Rob!
 
I soaked 6 blocks of Thuya in acetone for a week. That removed a lot of resin/sap.

Then I cooked them in the toaster oven for maybe an hour at a low temp, 180F on this oven. That caused more resin to come to the surface.

I then soaked in acetone again for a day, and rebaked for an hour, and they seem to be clean. Looks good so far.

Will send to WSSI and see how they come out.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Isn't that how to cook scrambled eggs? ;)
 
OH YEAH... I left out a step. :D I let them air out for a couple days before the toaster. ;)

Important step! Thanks for pointing out my important omission. Seriously. I kinda take my knowledge of this kinda stuff for granted and shouldn't... just been working in the refining industry for 23+ years and it's second nature.

I happen to be fairly familiar with hydrocarbon flammability curves, and you bet... acetone is super flammable. Proof: fingernail polish is usually acetone, and you can dip a Q-tip in and light it off. It burns hot and clean, very little smoke (poor a puddle in the driveway, no cloth or paper, and carefully ignite in the driveway for proof... er, I mean, don't try this at home folks!)

The ignition temperature of acetone is 869 deg F, and while I ran the toaster at 180 deg F the first time, and then lower at 140-150 degrees the second time, the heat coils (bars) probably run pretty hot when they are in the "on" cycle of the toaster. Perhaps hot enough to ignite acetone IF it's concentrated enough in the toaster. Hence, dry them out first.

From wikipedia:
The most common hazard associated with acetone is its extreme flammability. It auto-ignites at a temperature of 465 °C (869 °F). At temperatures greater than acetone's flash point of −20 °C (−4 °F), air mixtures of between 2.5% and 12.8% acetone, by volume, may explode or cause a flash fire. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition sources and flash back. Static discharge may also ignite acetone vapors.[

This is actually a pretty low concentration of hydrocarbon in air compared with other heavier hydrocarbons. Similarly, gasoline is 1.4% to 7.6% range, so acetone requires a bit more concentration but not much, but this puts it in perspective. Diesel is lower at 0.6% to 7.5%, but that doesn't tell the whole story. Acetone and gasoline are "flammable" as the flash point (temperature at which vapors evaporate) is much lower than diesel (-17C for Acetone, -40C for gasoline). Technically, Diesel is combustible, as you have to get it warmer (typically above 140F) before enough vapor is given off to become flammable.

This is a good overview:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flammability_limit

Acetone is quite volatile, and if you let wood soaked acetone air out for a while (much longer in cold temperatures, or do it in your basement if you are blessed with a basement), nearly all of it evaporates, and fairly quickly.

2.5% volume in air doesn't sound like much acetone, but that amount would smell strongly. HOWEVER, I can't say that I recommend this toaster procedure to people who don't really understand what they are doing. Just for the record. :D Probably shouldn't have posted it since some fool will F@$& this up and burn his face or arms, the same guy who cleans the floor in his garage with gasoline, and then wonders why his garage blew up (hint... pilots on gas water heater MIGHT be an ignition source... or maybe it was static electricity?).

Back to Thuya burl... the procedure outlined above did not result in any cracked blocks. The blocks were all about 1" square by 5" long.
 
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Hi all,
So I've been trying to stabilize thuya and camphor burlwood for about a month now and they still float so I contacted my go to teacher for stabilizing wood and he sent me this thread so I thought I'd give it a try.
So WHT should I do if they've been soaking in resin for almost a month. Do I boil the mi water to remove the resin. Just wash it off in cold water. Wipe it off with a clean cloth and then with alcohol? What should I before soaking them. In acetone. And for industrial acetone I'm from Mexico and I can't find any down her I found denatured alcohol 99.99% is that ok to use?
Thanks!
 
Welcome to Shop Talk, Paul.

This is an 11 year old discussion. Also you don't give us any information to help answer your question. What "resin" are you soaking in? Thuya and camphor burl are hard to stabilize without big vacuum equipment .. and even then it is iffy. The most likely answer to your question is it is probably too late to salvage your wood. Best to let it go and pick some new pieces to work with. As the many threads on home stabilizing usually show, home stabilizing isn't easy and rarely gets top results.
 
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