I really like the cold steel Ti lite. However for a lefty it's no good. Can you take the thumb stud out and switch it to the left side? I've been wanting one of these for a long time. The only hang up is I'm a lefty. Anybody got any ideas on how to do this. Thank you in advance for any considerations. I really want one but I don't want to waste my money on a right-handed only knife
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Ti lite
- Thread starter Vlade
- Start date
Well that was simple thank you very much I was afraid of that
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- Jan 12, 2022
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It is a good excuse to practice and become ambidextrous.
Blue Sky
Gold Member
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I’m a lefty, and have learned to open my TiLite using the bottom guard as sort of a quasi-thumb stud. Not as good as a real one but works ok. You can also push the top guard from the back to pop out the blade off the detent, then open it the rest of the way with a modest wrist flick or your finger pulling on the top guard. A two step process, but fairly easy to do once you get the feel for it. We shouldn’t have to do such things, but any lefty knows sometimes you just have to grit your teeth snd adapt, if you like or need the item enough.
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I see, well, maybe they make a lefty version in the future, you never know.
Yeah you never know
Regarding the Ti-Lite 6, one of the things I love about it is that it can be easily wrist-flicked open. But I'm referring specifically to the one with zytel handles and satin finish blade. I never use the thumb studs on my manual Ti-Lite 6's, the weight of the blade and a little wrist-flick is enough to easily overcome the detent.
As for the Ti-Lite 4, that's different. I could not wrist-flick my zytel handle satin blade T4, the detent divot was too deep and crisp, and the blade too light to break the detent. I had to dramatically modify that knife so I could easily wrist-flick it.
As for the Ti-Lite 6's with black coatings or bead-blasted finishes, from my experience they don't wrist flick very easily at all due to the black coatings and rougher bead-blasted surfaces around the pivots causing greater friction than with the satin finish ones. Of course the pivot areas could be sanded and polished. Or, even easier, the single bronze phosphor pivot washers on each side could be replaced with double washers so that the washers were spinning against each other rather than spinning against the blade or liner.
Here's my custom manual Ti-Lite 6, no thumb stud. All wrist-flick
.
As for the Ti-Lite 4, that's different. I could not wrist-flick my zytel handle satin blade T4, the detent divot was too deep and crisp, and the blade too light to break the detent. I had to dramatically modify that knife so I could easily wrist-flick it.
As for the Ti-Lite 6's with black coatings or bead-blasted finishes, from my experience they don't wrist flick very easily at all due to the black coatings and rougher bead-blasted surfaces around the pivots causing greater friction than with the satin finish ones. Of course the pivot areas could be sanded and polished. Or, even easier, the single bronze phosphor pivot washers on each side could be replaced with double washers so that the washers were spinning against each other rather than spinning against the blade or liner.
Here's my custom manual Ti-Lite 6, no thumb stud. All wrist-flick
.
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In my opinion, the Ti-Lite liner lock is one of the best designed liner locks out there, if not the best, specifically due to the L shaped contact surface. So instead of just a flat liner locking the blade open, there is a L shaped piece of steel contacting the tang.
And if you watch any of the Ti-Lite 6 torture-test videos, either the CS/Proof/Lynn Thompson video, or the JoeX video, the Ti-Lite 6 lock can withstand a lot of stress.
Sure, it's not a Triad lock, but it's still a very strong and reliable lock.
I recently read somewhere that someone had asked LT about a Triad version of the Ti-Lite, and it was explained that there just wasn't enough room in the knife for the Triad design to work right.
I don't know about the larger CS knives with Triad locks, but I have difficulty wrist-flicking the one I have (Counter Point 1), so I'm very glad the T6 is a liner lock.
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- Mar 11, 2021
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- 177
After owning and using Ti-Lite's in every available flavor (Zytel ,G10, Aluminum, Titanium), and seeing enough real-world testing and comparisons, I can tell you in my personal opinion, I trust the liner locks of the 6 inch Ti-Lite's far, far more than ANY of the fancy, super expensive, highest end framelocks or linerlocks on the market, regardless of price or reputation. I think enough proof is out there for the 6 inch Ti-Lite to lay claim to being the strongest liner lock on the market.
The Aluminum and G10 Ti-Lite's are the real treat. They are dramatically more rigid and stiff than the Zytel Ti-Lite's, while feeling much more premium. Joe X used the Zytel version in his destruction test, and it performed amazingly well for such a long lightweight knife. I asked him in the comments to do a test on the Aluminum version, but he scoffed the idea. Too bad. Would have liked to see it.
The Aluminum and G10 Ti-Lite's are the real treat. They are dramatically more rigid and stiff than the Zytel Ti-Lite's, while feeling much more premium. Joe X used the Zytel version in his destruction test, and it performed amazingly well for such a long lightweight knife. I asked him in the comments to do a test on the Aluminum version, but he scoffed the idea. Too bad. Would have liked to see it.
No I was only saying that because you could take the thumb studs and do what you want with them. I was on the no way Downing a liner lock.
And that's one beautiful knife you do really good work.Regarding the Ti-Lite 6, one of the things I love about it is that it can be easily wrist-flicked open. But I'm referring specifically to the one with zyex handles and satin finish blade. I never use the thumb studs on my manual Ti-Lite 6's, the weight of the blade and a little wrist-flick is enough to easily overcome the detent.
As for the Ti-Lite 4, that's different. I could not wrist-flick my zyex handle satin blade T4, the detent divot was too deep and crisp, and the blade too light to break the detent. I had to dramatically modify that knife so I could easily wrist-flick it.
As for the Ti-Lite 6's with black coatings or bead-blasted finishes, from my experience they don't wrist flick very easily at all due to the black coatings and rougher bead-blasted surfaces around the pivots causing greater friction than with the satin finish ones. Of course the pivot areas could be sanded and polished. Or, even easier, the single bronze phosphor pivot washers on each side could be replaced with double washers so that the washers were spinning against each other rather than spinning against the blade or liner.
Here's my custom manual Ti-Lite 6, no thumb stud. All wrist-flick
I drool every time I see your Ti-Lite mods. You are very talented. Thanks for sharing your skills.Regarding the Ti-Lite 6, one of the things I love about it is that it can be easily wrist-flicked open. But I'm referring specifically to the one with zyex handles and satin finish blade. I never use the thumb studs on my manual Ti-Lite 6's, the weight of the blade and a little wrist-flick is enough to easily overcome the detent.
As for the Ti-Lite 4, that's different. I could not wrist-flick my zyex handle satin blade T4, the detent divot was too deep and crisp, and the blade too light to break the detent. I had to dramatically modify that knife so I could easily wrist-flick it.
As for the Ti-Lite 6's with black coatings or bead-blasted finishes, from my experience they don't wrist flick very easily at all due to the black coatings and rougher bead-blasted surfaces around the pivots causing greater friction than with the satin finish ones. Of course the pivot areas could be sanded and polished. Or, even easier, the single bronze phosphor pivot washers on each side could be replaced with double washers so that the washers were spinning against each other rather than spinning against the blade or liner.
Here's my custom manual Ti-Lite 6, no thumb stud. All wrist-flick
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2021
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- 229
If Kilgars idea won't work for you, one could build a wave for a ti lite (you'll have to find a longer bolt)or even try grinding the existing guard into a wave.
I was thinking about that too. I can get a hold of Rob from snaggletooth and see what he thinks. Obviously kilgar is a professional. And he makes outstanding knives .
But I got my eye on a Ruger 1911 in 9 mm. That's probably my next major purchase. As far as weaponry. I like my weapons. It's going to cause a fight with my wife she won't talk to me for a week or two, but I guess it's worth it.
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draggat
Gold Member
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- Jul 26, 2010
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- 2,927
Don't want to make another thread on the Ti-Lite so just adding to this one.
Recently picked up a bunch of the 4" versions. The 6" is a bit big for my EDC tastes, but it is still a bad ass knife - I did get one with the zy-ex handle.
The zy-ex, aluminum and G-10 versions are significantly different for sure. I don't notice too much difference in action between the stone wash and black blades, but the aluminum with bead blast blade has the worst action by far. Both the black zy-ex and G-10 versions are basically the same.
The hole patterns are significantly different on each. Personally I like the look of the aluminum one the best.
The blades of the G-10 and zy-ex versions appear to have the same coating. Don't know if it's a true DLC or not. It doesn't appear to be as good as the real deal that is used on Spyderco or Pro-Tech. Reminds me more of the titanium nitride coatings that the original Lone Wolf knives used. Still, that type does have a molecular bond with the steel, making it significantly better than a baked on or Teflon coating. I was going to wipe one with acetone and see if it does anything but haven't gotten to it yet.
The G-10 version is a very different knife from the rest. Along with not having a mark side liner, the handle is also much more rounded, with thinner edges and a curvaceous contour near the butt end, whereas the aluminum and zy-ex handles are straight and chunkier. The G-10 feels awesome in hand!
Another difference with the G-10 version is that there is a relief hole drilled into the inside of the handle to allow the detent ball space. I think K killgar suggested doing this once. The lock up is even later than the other versions. I handled two different G-10 versions and they both had very similar late lock up. It appears the detent ball is touching, but it isn't and the lock is solid with no movement.
At one time I probably would have worried about this, but after using another knife for years that had a very good steel liner lock which never changed position, it's a non-issue for me.
Also picked up a 4" kris. Has anyone actually tried using this one at all? Just wondering if it is good for much other than looking cool and stabbing stuff.
Recently picked up a bunch of the 4" versions. The 6" is a bit big for my EDC tastes, but it is still a bad ass knife - I did get one with the zy-ex handle.
The zy-ex, aluminum and G-10 versions are significantly different for sure. I don't notice too much difference in action between the stone wash and black blades, but the aluminum with bead blast blade has the worst action by far. Both the black zy-ex and G-10 versions are basically the same.
The hole patterns are significantly different on each. Personally I like the look of the aluminum one the best.
The blades of the G-10 and zy-ex versions appear to have the same coating. Don't know if it's a true DLC or not. It doesn't appear to be as good as the real deal that is used on Spyderco or Pro-Tech. Reminds me more of the titanium nitride coatings that the original Lone Wolf knives used. Still, that type does have a molecular bond with the steel, making it significantly better than a baked on or Teflon coating. I was going to wipe one with acetone and see if it does anything but haven't gotten to it yet.
The G-10 version is a very different knife from the rest. Along with not having a mark side liner, the handle is also much more rounded, with thinner edges and a curvaceous contour near the butt end, whereas the aluminum and zy-ex handles are straight and chunkier. The G-10 feels awesome in hand!
Another difference with the G-10 version is that there is a relief hole drilled into the inside of the handle to allow the detent ball space. I think K killgar suggested doing this once. The lock up is even later than the other versions. I handled two different G-10 versions and they both had very similar late lock up. It appears the detent ball is touching, but it isn't and the lock is solid with no movement.
At one time I probably would have worried about this, but after using another knife for years that had a very good steel liner lock which never changed position, it's a non-issue for me.
Also picked up a 4" kris. Has anyone actually tried using this one at all? Just wondering if it is good for much other than looking cool and stabbing stuff.