Tie rod end setting on a 2003 Silverado

silenthunterstudios

silenthunterstudios

Slipjoint Addict
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Feb 2, 2005
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Question for the gear heads. I had my tie rod ends replaced, is there a "setting" for how tight the tie rod ends should be? They were pretty bad previously, and the whole assembly was replaced, they were tightened at their previous settings. For example, it took 12 turns to get the drivers side out, and it took 24 or so turns to get the passengers side out. Should both sides be the same tightness?
 
from a GM service tech: if your tie rod ends have already been replaced, and you are absolutely for sure they're in their correct previous (original) settings, all you should need is an alignment to straighten you out. at least that's how he read your question. I hope that helps a little.
 
They're in the previous settings they were in at time of replacement, but I don't have a manual with specs. The tie rod ends were pretty bad. I'm sure it needs a front end alignment. Thank you for the response, I'm trying to troubleshoot before I take it to the mechanic.
 
Good morning...
It's not really a tightness...
Each tie rod end is adjustable, side to side, which is part of the wheel alignment process.
Though, usually they are similar side to side... sounds like just a mistake counting the turns...
It's easy to count each turn of the tie Rod end as one (180 deg) when it actually takes two twists to make one turn (360 deg).
Once the tie rods are adjusted, the clamps securing the tie Rod ends are tightened, preventing them from turning.
The alignment phrase toe in means I'd you measure the distance across at the front of the tires, they will be a little closer than measuring the width at the rear of the tires. It helps reduce tire wear as you roll down the road.
If I've only confused you, let me know & when I'm more awake, I can try again...
If it's running straight, it's probably ok.
 
Whoops, just read your next post...
If your truck is pulling to one side or another, or your tires are wearing out unevenly, such as the outer edges bald,,inside edge not so bald for example... It probably needs work.
Just having a messy or grease at the ends doesn't mean they are bad...
They have to be checked for play.
Be prepared, but you can't do an alignment with any worn parts.
And they will probably say you need ballpoints, inner & outer tie Rod ends, idler arm maybe...
Sometimes they lie, sometimes they don't. I hate dishonest mechanics... I made my living without cheating anyone.
But, sometimes you do need the parts. It's true it's a waste of time trying to align a front end with worn parts.
Waste of time & money...
Good luck with the repairs bud...
 
I've been blessed that my mechanic is honest. He doesn't do front end alignments but will tell me what I need, and fix whatever I need. Just trying to save on labor, my little brother is helping me out.
 
silenthunterstudios said:
I've been blessed that my mechanic is honest. He doesn't do front end alignments but will tell me what I need, and fix whatever I need. Just trying to save on labor, my little brother is helping me out.
Click to expand...

That's good...
I didn't know you were gonna do some work...
If you change tie Rod ends, measure the distance between inner & outer, jic you lose count.
Then, as you unscrew the tie Rod end, count the number of turns, be accurate as you can, but if you keep track, it will be close enough so you can drive it to the alignment shop when you install the new ones.
Ball joints are quite a bit more involved...I just want you to be prepared for what the alignment shop will say...
In order for your wheel alignment to be worthwhile, there must be no play in front suspension components.
Again, I just want you to be prepared... Sometimes all a guy wants is a wheel alignment, so the vehicle goes straight...
And not be told you need upper & lower ball joints, idler arm, inner outer tie rods...
This is where a shop can take advantage, but also a reputable shop won't do an alignment unless the
front end components are within spec.
Hope I didn't just confuse you with my mumbling...
Good luck with the repairs!!
 
We replaced the tie rod ends recently, within the past couple weeks. My uncle said not to use the ones I bought, to use Moog tie rod ends. I had already bought them. We didn't measure, but did count the number of turns.
 
Counting turns is close with tie Rod ends, unlike other suspension components... And adjustments.
Especially if it's a 4x4 there isn't much to do...
I use moog suspension components as well.
I'm not sure if they are any better these days, but when I was in a shop long ago, they were far superior to factory replacement parts.
Plus the fact that suspension work is involved, and I hate doing it, so hopefully buying quality parts let's the repair last longer.
Sorry it's tough to give mechanical advice over the www...
But doesn't hurt to ask...
Hopefully you're driving straight down the road!!
 
I need a pitman arm, a new seal, and I need to take it to Meineke down the street from my mechanic and find out if I need a front end alignment.
 
Mechanic said I need four ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm and front end alignment. After that is done, I'm taking it to Pep Boys for the economy passenger car tires in my size and then I need to get new rotors for it. Front end fix and tires are first necessity.
 
If you replace tie rods counting turns may or may not get you close. The new parts may be longer/shorter than the old parts.

You can get closer buy getting a helper and a long tape measure. Pick a point on the tread, center of tread if possible. Measure between that point on the front of the left tire to that point on the front of the right tire, as high up as you can and keep the tape measure straight. Then take the same measurement on the back side of the tires. If the measurements are the same then you have zero toe-in. This is close enough to get you to a shop to perform a proper alignment. If you really don't want to do a proper alignment then look up the correct toe setting for your vehicle and this will tell you how the front measurement and back measurement compare. No guarantees though- this will allow you to drive the vehicle without major problems but it may pull or put faster wear on tires.

I worked in a garage for a long time and I knew better, but one time I put struts on my car at home in my garage then drove the car to the local shop for alignment. It was a short distance to the shop so I didn't worry about getting the new struts exactly in the correct position. Well it was a short drive to the alignment shop but the car was terrible to drive for that short distance.
 
I ended up spending $1650 on the truck, and bought the cheap passenger car tires, store brand, for $500.00. The bill on the truck included a front end alignment. I still need new rotors, I'd like to get new wheels.
 
6850 said:
Good morning...
It's not really a tightness...
Each tie rod end is adjustable, side to side, which is part of the wheel alignment process.
Though, usually they are similar side to side... sounds like just a mistake counting the turns...
It's easy to count each turn of the tie Rod end as one (180 deg) when it actually takes two twists to make one turn (360 deg).
Once the tie rods are adjusted, the clamps securing the tie Rod ends are tightened, preventing them from turning.
The alignment phrase toe in means I'd you measure the distance across at the front of the tires, they will be a little closer than measuring the width at the rear of the tires. It helps reduce tire wear as you roll down the road.
If I've only confused you, let me know & when I'm more awake, I can try again...
If it's running straight, it's probably ok.
Click to expand...
I have a 2003 Chevy silverado 1500 ext cab and I hit my drivers side bumper on a guard rail in a snow squall and now I have to hold my steering wheel quite left to keep it straight. When I’m in 4WD I can feel the truck jumping every few seconds on a rough road. Is it correct that a tie rod adjustment will fix this without having to buy a new assembly?

I just want the truck to go straight and not spend money on parts. I already had the rps and the fds calliper replaced, rps rotor, fps wheel bearings, new brake pads and fluids, oil, rad fluid, newer tires(mine were unsafe) and spark plugs. I’m thinking I should get a new battery too, the lights aren’t that great on the dash.

There was a cat delete and my Y pipe broke off and I guess I lost the connecting piece. This happened after the muffler hook failed and ripped my muffler off while I was reversing. So it’s been a couple days. It’s all hanging by mechanics wire.

I have 2.5” flex pipes, lots of clamps, and extra muffler mounting brackets. The guy is going to fix it tmr and help me do a wheel alignment.

Also, apparently I’m killing the engine without the cat. I think I want to put some aftermarket’s in there and do it right, but I don’t know how much labour that would be. I don’t
 
Ell Cassidy said:
Also, apparently I’m killing the engine without the cat. I think I want to put some aftermarket’s in there and do it right, but I don’t know how much labour that would be. I don’t
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t think too much into that. I’ve had several cars with the cats removed: 87 442, 93 5.0 notch, 2002 GT, and even my first car… they all ran fine, my 5.0 lasted until about 220,000 miles, and if it wasn’t rusted to shit I would probably still have it.
Motorcycles are a different story. I changed the muffler on my Ninja way back, and it definitely lost some low end torque, because I never bothered to re-jet the carbs.
 
A bad Catalytic converter can cause a lot of issues in the downstream O2's which in turn control quite a bit of your AFR's either get a good OEM cat from a pick n pull or get a decent aftermarket one. OR find a shop that does actual ECU tuning via efilive or hp tuners and have the catalyst heating turned off and do a basic cat back with a "test" pipe in place of the cat.

Find a good reputable shop and stop dealing with chain shops. All the front end parts you listed are sub 500 bucks for parts for a kit from rockauto. Start looking there to acquire your own parts rather than paying god awful markup on cheap parts.

As for the front end woes not all tie rods are created equally best bet is to measure from the stud to the sleeve. and transfer that measurement - rather than counting turns. These trucks are known to have wheel bearing issues and upper ball joint's are another common item that wears quickly - its easier to replace the whole upper arm most of the time than just the ball joint.
 
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