Tippmann Boss Questions

B

Bltien

Joined
Feb 1, 2017
Messages
107
I had a pleasant surprise of picking up a used Tippmann Boss over the weekend that was within driving distance (and only $350!).
https://imgur.com/a/h8aSOno
It seems to be in good shape but had set unused in the guy’s garage for awhile and didn’t come with any additional parts. Having never used any sort of stitching machine, I have some questions.

I’ve been trying to do some research on thread and needles and believe I’ve found what I need. I‘ve found some 207 bonded poly thread on eBay I was going to buy but it doesn’t say it’s waxed... does it need to be? Is there any thread to stay away from?

I was going to buy some round and chisel point needles. Should I just get one kind?

I’m going to buy some extra bobbins and new tension assemblies when I order some needles. The thread is difficult to pull through by hand when both tension springs have no pressure on them, which made some practice stitches a pain.

Is the bobbin winder (used with a drill) needed or will I be fine using a bolt or threaded rod and a couple nuts?

Any other suggestions or parts I should buy while I’m at it?

Recap on what I’m planning to buy: a couple colors of bonded poly 207 thread, round and chisel point needles, extra bobbins, both tension assemblies.
 
Sounds like a really good deal !! Congrats !!! I’d stay with the chisel needles for leather. The round point is for cloth. I don’t believe you can run waxed thread through that machine. So stay with bonded poly or bonded nylon. It’s always good to have extra loaded bobbins around.
I have no clue on the working of or tensions with that machine. I’ve never owned one. I’m sure someone will be along to answer.
Best of luck with it !! I hope it works well for you !
 
duramax said:
Sounds like a really good deal !! Congrats !!! I’d stay with the chisel needles for leather. The round point is for cloth. I don’t believe you can run waxed thread through that machine. So stay with bonded poly or bonded nylon. It’s always good to have extra loaded bobbins around.
I have no clue on the working of or tensions with that machine. I’ve never owned one. I’m sure someone will be along to answer.
Best of luck with it !! I hope it works well for you !
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice!
 
It has been years since I had my Boss. Mine was serial number 3, and was one of

the cast iron models. First, you made a really good deal on your purchase.

Bonded poly or nylon thread is the correct choice. Needle and thread size depends

on what you are trying to sew but 207 and a #24 or perhaps a #25 needle would

be about right for sewing sheaths or something about 3/8 to 5/8 inch thick.

It hard to say if you do need to replace the tensioners. When you pull the

"motorcycle brake handle" that raises the presser foot the tensioners should

release so that the thread pulls through easily by hand.

I'd give Tippman a call and discuss it with therm.

The bobbin winder is a shaft that fits into a driil and that is how you wind the

bobbins. it may have been a little part missing when you purchased the machine.

Buy a replacement from Tippman.

One last piece of advise that will save you countless frustrations. When sewing

make sure, (that's SURE) you give the machine a FULL stroke up and a FULL

stroke down, all the way to the stops on both ends, every single stroke.

That will save you many dropped stitches and bobbin bird nests.
 
Last edited:
sheathmaker said:
It has been years since I had my Boss. Mine was serial number 3, and was one of

the cast iron models. First, you made a really good deal on your purchase.

Bonded poly or nylon thread is the correct choice. Needle and thread size depends

on what you are trying to sew but 207 and a #24 or perhaps a #25 needle would

be about right for sewing sheaths or something about 3/8 to 5/8 inch thick.

It hard to say if you do need to replace the tensioners. When you pull the

"motorcycle brake handle" that raises the presser foot the tensioners should

release so that the thread pulls through easily by hand.

I'd give Tippman a call and discuss it with therm.

The bobbin winder is a shaft that fits into a driil and that is how you wind the

bobbins. it may have been a little part missing when you purchased the machine.

Buy a replacement from Tippman.

One last piece of advise that will save you countless frustrations. When sewing

make sure, (that's SURE) you give the machine a FULL stroke up and a FULL

stroke down, all the way to the stops on both ends, every single stroke.

That will save you many dropped stitches and bobbin bird nests.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. After some more reading, the tensioners weren’t the issue. The first videos I watched at first threaded the machine wrong. I’ll be sure to go through the owners manual that I printed off and do some more research before I make an order.

I’m thinking about ordering the center presser foot, which isn’t as wide as the factory one. Do you think that’s a good idea, or unnecessary?
 
I would start with spending the least amount $$$ as possible. Get the machine working and start practicing. After you get a feel for the machine and have it stitching leather. Then make decisions on upgrades or extras. Cause at that point you’ll have a better idea what will help you.
But it’s only my .02’s worth :-)
 
duramax said:
I would start with spending the least amount $$$ as possible. Get the machine working and start practicing. After you get a feel for the machine and have it stitching leather. Then make decisions on upgrades or extras. Cause at that point you’ll have a better idea what will help you.
But it’s only my .02’s worth :)
Click to expand...
That’s a good point. I have a tendency to try buying everything I might use in one go and end up buy things I don’t need lol.
 
So far I think I have it running okay or at least can get the tension adjusted okay! One thing about the thread though.. I bought some black and white colored poly thread and didn’t realize the white is mono thread, the black is 3 strand.

I Just used braided thread when hand stitching. Is the mono okay or should I get some different three strand for the white?
 
The single strand I’m unfamiliar with. For the machine I’d try bonded nylon. Select the size needle and thread to work with leather thickness your sewing. I believe you don’t want a waxed thread.
 
duramax said:
The single strand I’m unfamiliar with. For the machine I’d try bonded nylon. Select the size needle and thread to work with leather thickness your sewing. I believe you don’t want a waxed thread.
Click to expand...
No kidding. No waxed thread. lol
 
Makael said:
i

Should of took pics. ..... still ran great but I was glad to get all of the wax shavings out
Click to expand...

Ugh !!!
I wish waxed thread would work. I love tiger thread for hand stitching. Might have to try some bonded poly thread vs nylon for machine.


Hey OP any progress or pieces we could see pics of yet ?
 
I haven’t been able to do much except a little testing (thanks to law school... lol) but here’s some scrap I just tested with
7xYsmHg.jpg

I could probably back off the presser foot. The loop seems to be inside the leather and the only issue I had was the loop didn’t get caught a few times. This is with a #24 needle and 207 thread I believe.
Here’s how the actual sheath ended up from what that piece of scrap was supposed to be. It was hand stitched a few weeks before I picked up the Tippmann.
6VYj1DU.jpg

PgaOEBI.jpg

if I can get these hunters and EDCs heat treated and start to finish them I’ll be able to see how it works on some real pieces!
ERnxmtj.jpg
 
Bltien said:
I haven’t been able to do much except a little testing (thanks to law school... lol) but here’s some scrap I just tested with
7xYsmHg.jpg

I could probably back off the presser foot. The loop seems to be inside the leather and the only issue I had was the loop didn’t get caught a few times. This is with a #24 needle and 207 thread I believe.
Here’s how the actual sheath ended up from what that piece of scrap was supposed to be. It was hand stitched a few weeks before I picked up the Tippmann.
6VYj1DU.jpg

PgaOEBI.jpg

if I can get these hunters and EDCs heat treated and start to finish them I’ll be able to see how it works on some real pieces!
ERnxmtj.jpg
Click to expand...

Looking really good !!!!!!

Hey just a suggestion but it wouldn’t hurt to upgrade your membership here. If you jump up to knifemaker / craftsman / service provider. It allows you to sell here plus many other privledges :-)
 
B Bltien . you mentioned random stitch skip, not picking up the loop. This common on an otherwise perfectly tuned machine

IF you neglect to perform a FULL stroke all the way to the stops both up and down. If you short stroke either direction

your skip stitch can happen.
 
duramax said:
Looking really good !!!!!!

Hey just a suggestion but it wouldn’t hurt to upgrade your membership here. If you jump up to knifemaker / craftsman / service provider. It allows you to sell here plus many other privledges :)
Click to expand...
I’ve been considering it for a little while! I might if I can turn out knives a little quicker.

sheathmaker said:
B Bltien . you mentioned random stitch skip, not picking up the loop. This common on an otherwise perfectly tuned machine

IF you neglect to perform a FULL stroke all the way to the stops both up and down. If you short stroke either direction

your skip stitch can happen.
Click to expand...
I assumed that may be the issue. I thought I was doing that but was able to get the stitch to catch when I slowed down. I think I’ll get it figured out soon enough!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top