Tips for getting "shaving sharp"?

Keep in mind this is coming from someone who sucks at sharpening; I use a Lanky 5 stone system, with limited results.

I'm about to make my first knife. In reality, does the steel really have much to do with how sharp you can get? I haven't seen steel types mentioned on this thread, but I plan to use CPM154.

The knife will have a straight edge, haven't decided on flat or hollow grind yet. How far should you take the main bevel? Meaning, how much of a flat spot should be on the edge of the blade after HT & before you start to sharpen? Also, it sounds like there are different types of cuts, (push & slice) Not sure which I should go for.

As of now, I'm questioning how I judge sharpness. Usually, it's by the feel of the edge on my finger, and even more so, how the blade slices paper, either printer, or newspaper. Have never been too focused on cutting hair, though I have done that.

Where do you get a good strop?
 
You can get strops on Amazon, but the easiest, I think is just to get some leather and glue it to a 2x4.
Make several and load em up with the jewellers rouge of your choice.
 
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when i set razor bevels they will "shave" hair at 325 grit (not what i call shave sharp tho) when i hone a sushi knife or a straight razor they will both cut hairs up off the skin " tree topping sharp" at any grit above 4k but refinement counts in a smoothe shave. now lets get along with it. all my belt sharpened knives go 220 400 800 then 9 micron all run wet and on the final clean up light slack belt to sharpen off any burr that may still be left. dont buff edges "sharp" that just rounds them a hair. if you mushe strop an edge that is low grit make it be a compound with a fairly hard backer and alternate strokes. i can get my pocket knife ""shave"" sharp with my DMT 600 pocket sharpener its all about keeping the angle clean and stroke count on the edge
 
Are all strops/leather equal?
I wouldn’t say they are all equal, you can actually strop on a smooth block of wood or a piece of paper with a little honing paste added. It’s important that you get a strop with a firm backing because it will roll your edge if it flexes.
 
I wouldn’t say they are all equal, you can actually strop on a smooth block of wood or a piece of paper with a little honing paste added. It’s important that you get a strop with a firm backing because it will roll your edge if it flexes.
Cardboard will work in a pinch. Not as good as stroping with compound but will work in a pinch.
 
Just to add to everything that has already been said. I take a work 400 grit AO belt and grind edge down until I see a burr form, this takes less than 30 seconds, Then i form the burr on the other side. Then I move to a strop with compound, I uses car polish, strop until the burr is gone (less than a minute) and you have a very toothy edge that will literally pop hair and glide through magazine paper.
 
I'm still hoping to hear someone speak to this toothy VS polished edge, and a push cut VS slice cut. On one level, I know what all that means, but why one over the other, and the REAL differences, escapes me, I suspect. Also, is everyone who sharpens with a belt sander doing it free hand?

Also, would like to hear some comments on the Lansky system (standard, not diamond) I'm using, and why I may not be getting good results.
 
I'm still hoping to hear someone speak to this toothy VS polished edge, and a push cut VS slice cut. On one level, I know what all that means, but why one over the other, and the REAL differences, escapes me, I suspect. Also, is everyone who sharpens with a belt sander doing it free hand?

Also, would like to hear some comments on the Lansky system (standard, not diamond) I'm using, and why I may not be getting good results.
I could never get my Lansky to work with their regular stones.

As for the push cutting vs slicing my take on it is that other than cutting paper there isn't a lot of push cutting with most knives but it does apply to wood working tools since they almost always push cut. The course sharpening leaves tiny teeth that act like serrations on a slice and are super aggressive cutters. My personal theory about why course sharpening holds a longer edge is that al of the extra passes side loading the blade cause some fatigue although it could be that how they cut causes less fatigue or that there is more surface area to like a serrated knife the points dull but are still pointy enough to break through and the valleys stay sharp or something else all together. The fact of the matter is is that course sharpening is quicker and the edges tend to last longer in most of the testing I have read. They also tend to cut better for most things although they don't look as cool as a mirror polished edge. I can see a argument for the thin polished edge for certain applications including of all things razors. Razors are taken a point that would be almost useless as a knife since the are so thin a fragile and from what I understand actually use the wire edge that is removed from a knife edge. I'm still trying to get my razor to give a comfortable shave so there are others that can give you more information on that.
 
Interesting. I suspect that what I "feel" to be sharp is that toothy slicing edge. Either way, I am having a hard time getting it with the Lansky. It neither feels sharp, or slices paper well, though, it does do the things I need it to do. Mostly. But sharper is always better, LOL.
 
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Interesting. I suspect that what I "feel" to be sharp is that toothy slicing edge. Either way, I am having a hard time getting it with the Lansky. It neither feels sharp, or slices paper well, though, it does do the things I need to to do. Mostly. But sharper is always better, LOL.
I could get a good edge with their diamond stones but not the regular. Some people love them but maybe they are running softer knives.
 
i free hand on the grinder on most of my knifes but all razors and sushi knives are hand honed on wet stones as high as 16K grit sometimes
 
I have had success with strops, and have had them take away the bite from my edges.

I don't strop nearly as much as I used to.

With a leather strop you absolutely have to pay strict attention to pressure and angle. It is super easy to round your apex.

Usual my strop for edge refinement is a few strokes paying close attention to the angle and finishing of the stroke. I tend to find the "bite" angle and finishing by backing off the angle a smidge while finishing the stroke to make sure I don't round the apex.

I actually do use my home made strop bat quite a bit to polish the shoulder or flat on my blades.

Paint stirrers are a good strop surface as well.
 
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I've used and owned a lansky system for 30 years.

The basic system will allow your edge to treetop hairs if you take your time and properly set the apex and clean off the bur.

Make sure you have a bur at the lowest grit, before moving on to medium.

The lamsky system is prone to over pressure. Don't try to muscle it, or apply heavy pressure. The rods will flex and change your angle.

Also check each rod and stone to make sure they are flat, straight and true.

When you really look, you may fine one of your rods does not match the others from a truness standpoint. You can pick your straightesf rod, use only that rod, and work through the grits. Light touch.

You should be able to get a scary sharp edge even at the coarse grit.

I have a saffire blue stone to finish.

With all thst said, I don't use my Lansky much at all. ( i did recently reset a bevel wirh my lansky set on a custom CPM 3v knife.... i boogered up the plunge a tad where the edge flared wider! Tip...don't watcy a movie in the dark while sharpening a valuable custom!!)

I tend to freehand with diamond stones and sharp maker rods.
 
The way I do it is take a stone and go over it until it appears that I have a consistent bevel. The I go only into the edge for a few strokes on both sides to get the burr off. Then move to the next finest stone, same deal. I do tend to use one rod, and I do put the stone/rod combo on a flat surface to tighten them together. Is it considered necessary to go only in one direction? And, is it important to go in a certain direction? (into VS away from the edge?) Into meaning, like you're trying to cut the stone...
 
The way I do it is take a stone and go over it until it appears that I have a consistent bevel. The I go only into the edge for a few strokes on both sides to get the burr off. Then move to the next finest stone, same deal. I do tend to use one rod, and I do put the stone/rod combo on a flat surface to tighten them together. Is it considered necessary to go only in one direction? And, is it important to go in a certain direction? (into VS away from the edge?) Into meaning, like you're trying to cut the stone...


When I feel I have raised a bur from both directions I do edge leading strokes only (light and like cutting into stone).

I do not micro bevel, or go at a steeper angle to remove the burr. I alternate sides edge leading and do light passes until the bur is gone. I will then switch stones to higher grit and go untilnige removed the prior grit scratches again until ive made a bur from each side. Then alternate sides light strokes. Until the burr is gone.
 
I think the biggest thing to remember is to use less and less pressure as you go up grits.

Youre making a finer and finer edge, which can't take as much side load.

This is especially true when sharpening razors, the weight of the blade is enough.
 
Shaving sharp doesn't necessarily mean "cuts well"
A hair is only very thin. You can sharpen a sharpened crow bar shaving sharp and still it won't cut well.
 
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