Tips for making griptilian scales?

R

RM81

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Feb 22, 2012
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Like most who own a Griptilian, I love the knife but not the scales. So recent searches reveal a few options out there for aftermarket scales. Prices range to extremely high to reasonable. I got a 558 Ritter Mini recently, and I have a hard time spending more $$ on the scales than the knife. With that in mind, is there anyone out there willing to share some tips on making the scales for Grips and Mini Grips? I don't expect any trade secrets to be divulged, but some tips would be nice. I don't have a mill, but do have common tools like a drill press, belt sander, Dremel, etc. Helpful info would be thickness of the scales, thickness of the back spacer, bolt sizes, sources for bolts/inserts, lessons learned, etc. I'm a DIY'er and will attempt this either way, but it'd be nice to start this process one step ahead. I'll also try to document the process as I go along for other newbies looking for knowledge. I did a search but didn't find any "How-To's", so if anyone knows of one, please drop me an email with a link. It would be much appreciated.
 
Did you ever attempt this? I have a mini grip on the way and was thinking about trying this myself. Just wondering how your journey went
 
it's a major pain in the butt without a mill. You can use a drill press and router-type bit but the cuts have to be very shallow. There are several differents levels that need to be cut into the scales to accomodate the liners, then the base of the lockbar, then the omega springs. I have some micarta scales I am working on, I would suggest avoiding canvas micarta, paper or G10 would be better b/c the fiber in micarta inhibits precision.
 
A standard drill press for all the holes and dremel (in a "dremel" drill press attachment) for all the mortising.
For me this works on all materials, canvas, paper, linen, G10, Juma and CF.

 
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3/16" for the 558 for materials, and use the dremel cutter bits for milling with your drill press. good luck! check out some of my youtube vids, I got more than a few of minis and full size grips that might help. beimerja is my channel. Good luck!
 
RevDevil said:
Of course, the Axis lock won't last long without steel liners. Ever seen one without liners.
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Sorry for the confusion, I'm talking specifically the threaded inserts in the left side scale that the 2 threw screws (that go in from the right side scale) screw into to hold the handle together.
 
I use little nuts from Kershaw but they don't send them out anymore. you could always use the little brass fitting in the actual noryl gtx handles but you might not be able to reuse them again.
 
When using standoffs, these threaded inserts (captive nuts) you speak of are not needed.
When not using standoffs, I have transfered the threded inserts/captive nuts from the original scales to the new custom scales.


I do use threaded inserts/captive nuts for the clip mount on full size Griptilians.
Do a google search on Ez-Lock.
 
This is excelent. I was wanting to try my own mini grip scales. The nested liners and no back spacer are a huge pain. I started on some G10 ones, but I think I might have to start over and use some of the tips here. I'm doing some for the 707, and they are turning out much beter now that I dont have to mill for liners, just the axis lock, and it includes a spacer that I don't have to replace (unless I feel up to it). This is all very useful stuff. Thanks everyone.
 
Keyman, what's the best route for my first attempt? Would you recommend using stand-offs and 2 flat scales for simplicity (over embedded inserts & a spacer)?
 
Cereal_killer said:
Keyman, what's thed best route for mis first attempt? Would you recommend using stand-offs and 2 flat scales for simplicity (over embedded inserts & a spacer)?
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I know im not keyman but i have customized many mini grips and it I definately easier with standoffs. While a spacer is cool, its not as easy and everything has to be perfectly milled for it to work right. Are you getting your standoffs from knifekits.com? Thats where I got mine.
 
beimerja said:
I know im not keyman but i have customized many mini grips and it I definately easier with standoffs. While a spacer is cool, its not as easy and everything has to be perfectly milled for it to work right. Are you getting your standoffs from knifekits.com? Thats where I got mine.
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I usually order from USAknifemaker but I'm not opposed to knifekits, do you have a PN?
 
I make mine in much the same way as keyman. A couple things that make life easier.

Knifekits sells step drills that make life a lot easier for counterboring holes for pivots and screws. The .166/.093 is good for 2-56 button head screws. There's a size there great for pivots too, I just can't remember which it is off the top of my head.

Using the right dremel bit goes a long way. This took a bit of trial and error. G10 will eat up most metal dremel bits (unless you get the carbide ones). I like to use the grinding stone type instead, they're cheap and seem to really eat through it.

To set the depth, I like to use the drill press with a small end mill in it. That way I can drill a flat bottom hole to depth I want using the depth stop, then I can set my dremel stand up off of that.

As far as shaping the profile goes, I pretty much just grind it completely with the belt sander. Not really a lot of cutting done on a saw or anything. Pretty sure g10 would destroy most saw blades. I sometimes use a pneumatic dye grinder with a cutting wheel on it to cut bigger pieces of material down to the size I plan on working with, then grind the shape from there on the belt sander.

Also you definitely need to wear a mask, most everything they make scales out of is pretty bad for your lungs.

Practice makes perfect. My first ones didn't exactly come out like my latest ones.





 
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beimerja said:
What exactly do you mean PN?
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He means Part Number.
STDOFB Backspacer/Standoff - Stainless - Hub Design - (.140)
You will need to tap them though.
Use tap 2-56.
These are the only standoffs that come in the right length.
If you wish to use a different design standoff, you can.
But, the others all come too long for a mini-grip.
The other standoffs can be ground down to the right length .140".
However, keeping each end of the standoff square is quite the trick.
USA sells a pivot lap - "Use these pivot laps to sand down your pivot's or standoffs perfectly square and with perfect control."
I made my own device, long before I knew this one was available.

 
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Wish I could post pics of mine...I always have trouble posting decent size pics on BF. If Keyman or deathoallthings knows how to fix this, your help would be greatly appreciated! Thankyou!
 
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