Tips on setting a new bevel by hand

P2P

P2P

Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
1,765
I have mediocre hand-sharpening skills on knives with decent or slightly dull edges. I use a Japanese 1000/6000 stone and strop. I love the edges I get.

My obstacle is I have a worthless stone for setting new bevels and I was wondering three things.

1. Should I get a course Japanese stone or learn to use sandpaper?
2. I hear a lot about sandpaper. Do I use the same technique as on a stone?
3. How are you guys setting bevels by hand?

Thanks for your help.
 
You should keep using what you've got, imho. Seems like you've got pretty much all the tools you need to get a freakishly sharp edge. The only thing I would add would be a fairly inexpensive 220 grit stone (ex: Norton stone) for taking away material quickly. Then you'd be set.

The Sandpaper-and-mousepad technique that gets mentioned a lot is a great way to sharpen convex edges. It differs from stones in that you must only use a stropping motion on sandpaper, and it produces a distinctly convexed edge.
 
If you pick up a coarse or extra-coarse DMT stone it will really help out. After much experimentation, I've found that placing my thumb exactly on the middle of the spine of the blade when sharpening sets my bevels to ~10 degrees a side for knives with blades about 22 mm tall.
 
If you want to reset bevels (remove lots of steel), use a diamond stone. No need to go and wear a groove into natural stone.

I have done it before, and I've also screwed-up before as well. Optimally, you should use some sort of a guide so that you maintain the same angle on both sides.
 
CWL said:
If you want to reset bevels (remove lots of steel), use a diamond stone. No need to go and wear a groove into natural stone.

I have done it before, and I've also screwed-up before as well. Optimally, you should use some sort of a guide so that you maintain the same angle on both sides.
Click to expand...

Thank you all for the advice. I'm gonna look into diamond stones as well.

But I like a challenge so since this thread is already active I will just add to it.

What about sharpening re-curves. I'm about to receive a Benchmade 710 which has a tiny re-curve that I want to have the ability to resharpen. Or resharpening a chisel ground Emerson Commander :confused:

Does anyone have experience with sand-paper or sand-paper around a wooden dowel took reach re-curves?
 
Sharpmaker on the edges of the triangles will work well for all recurves including the 710.

As to the Commander I recommend the method shown on the Emerson site. BTW I've always found the Commander to be a tough knife for me to sharpen well but it's just me. As the quick removal in general I like 300 micron diamond "stone"
 
so if i get a coarse diamond stone, I can go straight to my 1000grit Japanese Stone.
BTW I keep bringing up the sandpaper because I feel it may a cheap but good alternative to buying a course stone. I may start a new thread with "sandpaper" in the title. Thanks for the greats advice so far guys
 
You can use the sandpaper, even with an edge-leading stroke. Obviously, it forces one to keep the pressure light, which is good sharpening practice in general. I actually think using sandpaper this way is a great way to train your hands for maintaining the right pressure.

For a recurve, use anything cylindrical as the backing (pvc pipe, dowel, broom handle, etc.). For quick metal removal to begin, something around 220 grit (+/-) is a good place to start.

I'll second the recommendation for a coarse diamond hone, otherwise. Even for convexing, I've fallen into the habit of using a diamond hone to initially rough out a V-bevel, then do the rest with sandpaper on my leather strop block.
 
Murindo said:
I like 300 micron diamond "stone"
Click to expand...

woow, this should remove metal fast. 300 micron is about 50-60 grit ... i've yet to see a diamond stone that coarse.


would be great though, for grinding a blade.
;)
 
Beston 500 grit waterstone, no changing technique for a different tool, cheaper in the long run, and faster and more consistent than sandpaper. It would also give you a nice 3 stone set.
 
you finally bought one ?
how do you feel about this one ?

it's probably the sweet spot for coarse waterstones imho. coarser grits wears way faster without cutting much more ... with the right technique and if you deal with the slurry correctly i think it grinds quite a bit faster than it's grit rating suggests ... if that makes sense. i still have to try the 400 chocera more extensively (i have used it once 5 min with a knife that wasn't mine ...)
 
Unfortunately not yet but a friend has one and likes it, plus its a good stone from a good manufacturer made with modern techniques so I can't really see how you could go wrong. Imanishi (spelling?) is the parent company for Beston, bester, and arashiyama, they are designed to be more like natural stones so they feel real good and as you probably know edge quality is very high. It's the next one I plan on getting, lowest I have is a 1k and though I have diamonds I prefer to use all 1 type of stone.

The choceras are tempting from the reviews but I'm not a fan of the binder and I just can't see them being that much better. I could be wrong but I'm not dropping that cash to find out :)
 
Well, I'm hoping to get a littler extra spending money here soon so I can experiment. I'm leaning towards a course Japanese stone due to the fact that I already finish my knives on that style of stone. And something like a wooden dowel and sandpaper for re-curves.

Here is the thing. I like a challenge and although I may may not be a BEAST at sharpening standard knives yet at least I know I'm in the right directions.
That being said I like the style of re-curves and tough steels and don't want to be deterred just because of my own ability. Time to push the envelope.

Anyone have much sharpening experience on d2?

BTW I'M VERY GLAD I STARTED THIS THREAD. EVERYONE HAS BEEN VERY HELPFUL.
 
P2P said:
Well, I'm hoping to get a littler extra spending money here soon so I can experiment. I'm leaning towards a course Japanese stone due to the fact that I already finish my knives on that style of stone. And something like a wooden dowel and sandpaper for re-curves.

Here is the thing. I like a challenge and although I may may not be a BEAST at sharpening standard knives yet at least I know I'm in the right directions.
That being said I like the style of re-curves and tough steels and don't want to be deterred just because of my own ability. Time to push the envelope.

Anyone have much sharpening experience on d2?

BTW I'M VERY GLAD I STARTED THIS THREAD. EVERYONE HAS BEEN VERY HELPFUL.
Click to expand...

When I mentioned earlier, that I'd developed a habit of using a diamond hone to start, and finishing with the sandpaper (& stropping, of course), the most recent example in my mind was a D2-bladed Queen folder. Both the diamond and the silicon carbide paper handled that admirably. In particular, I've continued to refine that edge using the 1000/2000 grit sandpaper. It just keeps getting sharper, which is why D2 is becoming a favorite of mine.
 
Last edited:
What kind of waterstones do you have?

Most waterstones except King brand have no trouble with hard metals. Another thing to remember is they will always favor carbon and carbon alloy steels, they still work with stainless but it takes more effort to get the same result. If hard steels are what you favor I'd look into Sigma power select II stones, they are made specifically for hard metals and are some stones I wouldn't mind having myself.

No new to change tools for recurves either, just round one edge of your waterstone and use edge trailing strokes.
 
Ya as soon as I get this d2 a new edge i'm gonna put it to some good use. Its too bad companies really don't take the time to make great edges
 
knifenut1013 said:
What kind of waterstones do you have?

Most waterstones except King brand have no trouble with hard metals. Another thing to remember is they will always favor carbon and carbon alloy steels, they still work with stainless but it takes more effort to get the same result. If hard steels are what you favor I'd look into Sigma power select II stones, they are made specifically for hard metals and are some stones I wouldn't mind having myself.

No new to change tools for recurves either, just round one edge of your waterstone and use edge trailing strokes.
Click to expand...


I just have a cheap 1000/6000 japanese stone a paid 40 for after shipping. I always reflatten it on sandpaper after use. "edge trailing strokes" thank you for that. you have probably just saved me 100's of hours
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top