Titanium anodizing help!

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Feb 14, 2015
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293
Ok so I finally made my anodizing bath but am having some curious problems. First off, this is my setup: I'm using 15% dilute of sulphuric acid (dilution done via deionized and filtered water) along with lead cathodes. My cathodes are pure lead plates on either side of my tank connected via an external connection wire. Plates are 4" x 8" each and 1/32" thick. All of this is contained within a plastic bin.
Ok - so I know my setup seems good. I'm trying to anodize titanium knife clips. I'm using 9v batteries for the moment until I can get a true DC power source. I also have used multi-etch properly on each clip to prepare for anodizing. So my concern is this: I am using pure aluminum wire as the hanger for the part. In other words, I attach this aluminum wire to the part and then dip it into the solution.
Ok, now a general understanding of how the color band works. Purple is one of the earliest colors in the titanium anodizing band followed by blue then green.
So I dip my first part and it comes out purple as expected. So I ready my next part and dip it; nothing happens. My lead plate is still fizzing and I'm getting a small arc between my connecting wire and anode, yet no color change on the part. I readjust everything I can think of then try again to no avail. I get an idea that perhaps my aluminum hanger wire was anodized and interfering, so I get a new piece and try - success! Ok so now I want blue. I get a new piece and add 2 more batteries to get my desired current for blue. I dip the part and it hits purple, then slowly begins to hit blue at the bottom of the part. After that, nothing. I pull the part and add two more batteries. After this, I begin to get blue after a few seconds, but now the bottom of the piece has begun to go green. I pull the piece and call it quits to meditate.
So my understanding is this: the aluminum hangers I used anodized along with the part and caused a reduction in current to the part. I have seen many videos saying to use either titanium or pure aluminum as the contact hanger, but this obviously isn't working for me. My concern is two fold - in the videos with aluminum as the hanger, it seems as though where it connects to the part is also waterproof and thus no resistant anodizing is occurring at this contact point so it anodizes as normal. 2nd concern is that, if I use titanium, wouldn't the same anodizing principals be taking place to my hanger - which would also cause excess resistance and thus similar issues? Also, a new piece of titanium would anodize along with the fresh part, making both the same color; but if I wanted to use that hanger again, would I have to etch it clean for it to work due to the anodized layer causing resistance and thus the same problem?
I know this is a multilayered question, but I can definitely see this being an issue that plagues many beginner craftsmen as myself. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
 
I am not sure aluminum anodizes the way you describe. From what I have seen it is a process involving dyes and acid bath and possibly higher temperatures.
I think that your hanger does not get oxidized and thus not very conductive. Try Ti hanger it will work better. Instead of acid it would be safer to use Borax, Cascade or TSP detergent solution instead of acid.
 
I've only anodized titanium a few hundred times, so I'm far from an expert. Still, I'll share my thoughts.

1. A titanium hanger, I made a titanium tweezer of sorts, works best. I have adhesive heat shrink tubing sealing where the copper wire connects to the anode/cathode.
2. Any exposed copper will adversely affect your attempts to anodize. Everything in contact with the water/electrolyte should be titanium.
3. I've used the same titanium tweezers hundreds of times and never had an issue. No, you don't need to etch it clean. The trick is that you want everything to be the same conductivity level.
4. Your coil only needs to be as big/bigger as the titanium your are anodizing. You don't need giant lead plates. They're just draining your batteries quicker.
5. Also, TSP from the hardware store works just as well, if not better, than the diluted acid solution you are using. It's cheaper and also MUCH safer than the acid.
6. Test your batteries for voltage before anodizing. A single bad cell will prevent proper anodizing.
7. You can use a big plastic tub, but I mostly use a 16 oz. plastic cup. Never had a problem.

I prefer using batteries to my transformer based anodizer. It's much cheaper and probably safer. The batteries might shock you, but the 120VAC can kill you.
Here's TSP at Home Depot, around $4
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SAVOGRAN-1-lb-Box-TSP-Heavy-Duty-Cleaner-10621/202935861



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I have seen a few people and rooms get prepped for major surgery and thought they might not be as clean as my work before ano. Seriously...

Make sure everything is super clean in the entire setup. Anode, cathode, work, etc.

I wonder if it is the Aluminum, maybe try some Ti wire. I think I spent $5 on wire 4 years ago an it just keeps on going. If it is the Aluminum it has probably contaminated your multi etch. (look for sooty marks on your work, that is metal contamination)

Are the batteries losing their voltage before they hit color? maybe...

Generally it is all about the multi etch and cleanliness. Is the multi etch warm? That is critical in my opinion.


I accept about half of my ano work and redo the rest. A few knives usually take ma an afternoon but they don't leave my shop until they just glow.
 
Cool thanks guys. I'm figuring its my hanger oxidizing and messing with the voltage. I've seen what aluminum coatings on titanium do if not covered. Also of note on my setup - I'm only using a bin small enough to do large knife scales and am using around 30-40oz of electrolyte. The plates are on both sides due to my research online into the "throw" of the electrons. If you want every bit evenly done you will get best results with cathodes around your piece - or so I've read. However I can just disconnect one plate for smaller items. Only about half of each plate is in the solution. I used pure aluminum rivets to connect through the plastic then sealed them in with Bondic and connect them via clips. I also hang my stuff via an anode wire that is also sealed inside the container. Its all self contained and I take off the lid before anodizing so it doesn't explode from hydrogen release lol. Sounds like I might have to replace my anode wire too now... I tried just bypassing it on my previous try with no variation. Oh also, using acid due to further research online. Apoarantly to get different colors and etc people use various methods, and one of the most basic is acidic/basic electrolyte. I've already done both and seen they are very different. The acid works super fast and gives great color, but its almost too energetic and is cooking my batteries.
Think I'm gonna wait on using the acid for now until I get a more practical DC supply and replace all contact wires with titanium and try again. For now I'll go with my old setup: a coffee mug, borax, aluminum foil cathode, and aluminum wire (picture frame wire) hanger lol. Been using that just fine for clips recently but wanted a more true setup. Gotta get all the kinks out!
 
I have seen a few people and rooms get prepped for major surgery and thought they might not be as clean as my work before ano. Seriously...

Make sure everything is super clean in the entire setup. Anode, cathode, work, etc.

I wonder if it is the Aluminum, maybe try some Ti wire. I think I spent $5 on wire 4 years ago an it just keeps on going. If it is the Aluminum it has probably contaminated your multi etch. (look for sooty marks on your work, that is metal contamination)

Are the batteries losing their voltage before they hit color? maybe...

Generally it is all about the multi etch and cleanliness. Is the multi etch warm? That is critical in my opinion.


I accept about half of my ano work and redo the rest. A few knives usually take ma an afternoon but they don't leave my shop until they just glow.
How do you heat your multi etch and what do you use as containers?
 
I store the Multietch in a Nalgene bottle. I heat it by pouring hot water in a bucket with the bottle of Multietch in it. (like a double boiler with no heat source) It takes a bit of effort to heat up this way but is not too bad and I can do it outside or near a window.
 
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