To blue or not to blue

Joined
Jul 8, 2014
Messages
558
I’m working on a couple of axes that came to me very rusted, so I had to use vinegar, which I don’t much care for. Now they are that dull grey finish. I haven’t used bluing before but have watched people on YouTube do so. I also hear that soaking a head in tea for a few days can work and have seen that done.

What are your recommendations, and do you have any tricks?
 
I have been playing with a new blue/blackening haven’t done a axe yet but have done quite a few hammers needs a little more oil care. Thinking about using a lubricant that will stick to the base metal like frog lube. Haven’t let done it.
 
I don’t like most of the liquid gun blues that I have tried. By far the best results that I have gotten is from Caswell’s Black Oxide. It’s imparts a true black oxide coating and comes out very evenly.
Having tried both their Dry Sealer and the (oily) Penetrating Sealer, my preference is the latter.
Here are a couple examples:
7JVBxsy.jpg

67IuOxI.jpg

06-AA21-F5-2-E7-F-4086-A0-FB-134031-F7-DB28.jpg

I’d be happy to field your questions about it.
https://www.caswellplating.com/metal-finishing-solutions/black-oxide-kits.html
 
I have been tempted to order a bottle of “black magic” and try it out. So far have only used super blue and perma blue from Birchwood Casey. They work on and look good but can be annoying to apply at times.

ithinkverydeeply. Those look really good! May end up trying that as well as black magic.
 
I've had pretty good results with birchwood casey super blue. 15540005323814249316744646592995.jpg
15540005555071945857414966332035.jpg
15540005794958645868101497022658.jpg
I didn't use thr steel wool quite enough between coats so you can see a little rust on the left there. These look much better in daylight I think.
15540006208834357537198819483916.jpg
15540008389203031338007335421995.jpg
I've been wanting to try ithinkverydeeply's method though because it comes out beautiful as well. As with everything the more care and prep the better the result! Look forward to seeing what you try!
 
I think a half decent rust blue can be done fairly easily. I was able to brown a head really quickly rubbing concentrated vinegar with my (nitrile gloved) hands until it was dry over and over. I think because of the higher acetic acid concentration, accelerated evaporation, and warmth it works (relatively) quick. Repeat and repeat and you'll get a brown, which if you boil will be black oxide.
 
Ive used the Casey's cold blue on at least a couple dozen that were vinegared. It's easy, looks good and cheap enough. All my axes get used, so I'm not looking for perfection, the finish will get beat up eventually.
But I'm happy with the look of it, and it seems pretty durable.

Heres the most recent.
GKnOZWG.jpg


After I hang it and oil the handle, that gets wiped all over the head too. And seems to add a lot of protection as well as improve the look further. The one above is not oily however, and I think it looks pretty good already.
 
I will just vinegar soak the one piece steel heads if they are really rusty, then I hit them with the cup brush on an angle grinder and you can't really tell they were ever in vinegar.
 
Should look fine.

Next time if you got an axe rusty enough to think about a vinegar soak, maybe try that rust converter gel stuff.
 
Last edited:
I know vinegar will do the cleaning job but I really don’t like how they look when they come out. I used Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue on this Kemi but can’t attest to how well it works compared to other brands. It wasn't prepped beyond an angle grinder cleaning and an alcohol rub down but looks less "jaundiced".

SA.Kemi12.1



SA.Kemi12.1



SA.Kemi.12.1


I used some of the same here as well to sort of blend in where I filed the mushrooming off this Collins.

LegitamooseCT
 
Last edited:
What was the process you performed on that Collins double bit in the last picture?

It turned out good. It is smooth but not too shiny.

Ah! You noticed the difference. It is less oily looking because it was done with the “Caswell’s Sealer” for the dry look, not the “Penetrating Sealer” which leaves it oily looking.

I prefer the Penetrating Sealer because it is more forgiving and the “oily” look subsides over time and can be wiped off.
When dipping into the Dry Sealer and hanging it, they would look streaky with drips running off it.

That Collins was one of my first with Caswell’s and I was still getting my technique. Not liking the runs I tried wiping off the excess sealer with a rag and it was difficult to prevent it from looking streaky. (I’ll try to capture some of these flaws in photos.)
926994-CB-517-D-4-FAB-A935-B032-CB6-FB821.jpg

677-B3134-8-F5-A-441-D-84-F2-CB19255-D33-E5.jpg

190-BD455-61-F6-47-B3-90-D7-B9231-AA83-EE2.jpg

Admittedly these are minor imperfections. Sharpening the bit and sending it through wood a couple times would end all such concerns about cosmetic flaws.

I was able to achieve good results with the dry sealer using an air brush but ultimately I just found the Penetrating Sealer was much easier to work with. You can dip, spray or brush it without issue.

The Blackener is super easy, it happens in 30-90 seconds and you can very much control how black you want it.
You can use the same bath over and over.
(I do a 15/20% muriatic acid dip first, for good measure, but I have done it both way with no decernable difference.)

Edit: I should add that you are right though. The Dry Sealer has a “look” that the Penetrating Sealer does not. It’s a thickness or luster because it has more of a surface film.
 
Last edited:
I have been very satisfied with Birchwood Casey Super Blue--it takes bluing step by step to get the patina you want. Then you can oil to stop the process. If you use Birchwood Casey gunstock wax you can remove some of the bluing to lighten the patina. In the end the forced patina with a light coat of oil, in my experience, helps protect the steel from rusting better than just a coat of oil when exposed to the elements.
 
I would think some of the wood stove blackening agents would work OK also if you want a dark look. I have not ever tried any because I prefer my patina lighter and to more closely resemble the natural patina on an old axe. The Birchwood Casey Super Blue will assume the more natural vintage patina look pretty quickly if you start to use the axe in the elements and do not re--blue it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: A17
Back
Top