Tool to deal with bushes of blackberries and nettles

O

OmegaA

Joined
Feb 13, 2004
Messages
282
It was today again when the footpath I walked was full of nettles and blackberries. I had to give it up after some time because it was impossible to walk through.
I am thinking about a shovel, machette of ghurka to deal with nettles, bushes and (rarely) tree branches. Any suggestions? Something lightweight and good quality, easy to sharpen on Spyderco Tri-Angle. Some technical advice, like length and weight would be appreciated, I would like to see full spectre of tools, not only a few recommended.
I also think I could use this tool for chopping, but at the moment I did not need anything to chop for 9 years while camping/hiking, only for fun, so it is really far not the main task. Balde thickness - definitely less than 1/4 inch. the less the better - lighter tool and does not get stuck in wood too often.
Regards,
 
In my forestry days here in Florida and south Georgia, the gallberry, titi, smilax, and in young stands, blackberry are very thick. Most times I was taking inventory plots set-up on grids which meant walking in straight lines for the most part. Could have never done it without snakeproof chaps. Never wore them for the snakes, wore them for the vegetation. So if you have that much to contend with, that would be my suggestion. However, my first choice would really be a prescribed fire. :D
 
My natural reaction is to recommend a very long blade with enough mass to carry it through a whole swath. Maybe something like one of the big tools offered by Valiant Armory. (I forget the model names. Golok? Parang? take a look.)

However, since you mentioned light weight is a consideration, you might want to tackle the problem from another angle. I like Quiet Bear's suggestions about clothing. But you may want to carry a decent knife of modest size for the occasional limb, and use it to cut yourself a good walking staff. Then, use the stick to beat down weeds. Especially against lighter stuff like big patches of stinging nettle, a stick is very effective. Brambles might be a bit tougher, but it's still probably gonna be better than any size knife you'd actually want to carry.
 
my experience has been that a diesel tractor pulling a 5 ft brush hog makes short work of the thorn bushes, and does it fairly quickly. thats how i have been handleing them for the last 15 years or so.
alex
 
alco141 said:
my experience has been that a diesel tractor pulling a 5 ft brush hog makes short work of the thorn bushes, and does it fairly quickly. thats how i have been handleing them for the last 15 years or so.
alex
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I've even had good luck with gas tractors. I use reverse and a really small gear when the weeds are over my head on the tractor. :p
 
Blackberries are terrible bushes to walk through, and even worse to attempt to chop out of the way, they tend to just bend out of the way of the machete or blade.

I suggest a pair of garden secateurs (and good leather gloves) to cut your path through.

Canvas leg gaiters and thick clothing helps protect you also.
 
I have to second the recommendation for pruning shears. I have always found it far easier and safer to cut a path through. Hacking and slashing with a large blade I found tiring and frankly a little dangerous. A pair of tough pants (Carharts, chainsaw chaps, etc.) and leather gloves are also a must.
 
mithril said:
http://www.woodmanspal.com/

Made in America; used in WWII and by the early astronauts.

Mith.
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Thank you for suggestion. I have quite a few questions, it is quite an interesting tool:
Could you tell me about steel on the tool, how it is in general, does it hold the edge for a long time? I am not familiar with steel they use, could you tell me what steels used in knife-making have similar characteristics?
How is it for chopping? l guess it may not have as good finish as Busse, Fehrman or Swamp Rat knives, but what about general comfort? It seems to me, because it is a long tool, but at the same time with quite a thin blade, it might be more comfortable for chopping than some much more expensive knives.
I found only a few reviews on the item, so still cannot make conclusion if it is worth buying or not. The weight sounds quite acceptible!
Cheers,

P.S.: found this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=342502&page=1&pp=20 . It sounds like people like the handle, but the rest is not perfect...
 
I Have Had A Woodsmans Pal For About 7 Years Or So, And It Is Pretty Handy As A Compact Carry Tool, Will Chop Like An Axe, But For Blackberry Bushes I Would Not Think Of It As The Best Tool, It Works Better For Woody Plants Than Green Soft Stemed Plants. I Like It As A Survival Tool As You Can Dig With It, It Will Cut Down Small Trees And Chop Firewood If You Need It. The Edge On Mine Has Held Up, But The Steel Is Soft Enough To Easily Sharpen, It Does Not Chip When You Hit A Stone Ort A Knot In A Tree, You Can Baton It Through Some Pretty Thick Wood Also.

A Good Pair Of Shears And Some Gloves And Heavy Shirt Or Canvas Jacket Are More Helpfull For The Blackberry Bushes, Dont Forget The Eye Protection.
 
probably too large, but I used what we called a "brush hook" for stuff like that. from search results , it appears it was really a "bank blade". (the double-edged one).

brushhook0io.jpg


we'll keep calling it a brush hook.
 
We get those here, we call them 'bill hooks'

This is a short handled one but you can get long handled ones

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Like a heavier hedge knife.

On a lighter note have you considered:

Flame%20thrower%202.jpg
 
I would get a small 12" ontario machete, but buy the collins version, that D guard really protects your knuckles against the briars.


sometimes I have a 2x4 with a rope attached to it that I step on to bush down the briars. Its how some hoaxers make crop circles!
 
I use one of these on my enclosed cab heated and air conditioned bobcat loader. With the blade out front it really works nice on multiflora rose etc. and hitting a hornetss best is not near as exciting as it used to be...

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tallpaul said:
and hitting a hornets nest is not near as exciting as it used to be...
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:p I've done that dance numbers of times!!!
 
I like my Woodman's Pal. It's hook is great for wild roses and brambles. Keeping the convex edge can be a job though.
 
OmegaA said:
I am thinking about a shovel, machette of ghurka to deal with nettles, bushes and (rarely) tree branches.
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Though you can make due with the same knife for both, light spring vegetation and tree limbs are optimally cut by different tools. For the lighter vegetation you want a blade you can swing at maximum speed and has a very thin and acute edge, this is necessary because the vegetation isn't stiff and will bend out of the way easily. I would get a classic machete design from martindale and likely adjust the edge angle down to under ten degrees per side.

-Cliff
 
I do not have experience using machetes, therefore I do not even know what length of the blade I should select. I read though that, depending on the shape, machetes can do well some jobs and be nearly useless on others. Could you give me addresses on the web with guidance how to select machetes and what shape is the best for what types of work?

Here are requirements for the blade (I put first what is more important):

1.light to carry
2.Can cut nettles and blackberry bushes
3.Good quality
4.Can do adequate chopping
5.Should not stuck in wood when chopping
6.Compact size

I know a few companies that make machetes and ghurkis, like Lofty Wiseman, Himalaian Imports, Tramontina, but I do not know what they are in comparison to each other. Where could I find more information on manufacturers of machetes and ghurkis? (well, I know among knifemakers Busse, Fehrman or Chris Reeve are high end high price knifemakers, Spyderco and Benchmade are a bit lower, Helle, Muela, Marrtiini are even lower, but all make good quality knives. So I think similar gradation should be among machete and ghurki makers too)

What steel hardness is recommended on machetes? I feel that if you put very hard metal, the machete can break. Also, I thought stainless stell might be a better choice for machetes because of reduced hardness and brittleness, plus better for humid climate. Is it correct?

Regards,
 
OmegaA said:
Here are requirements for the blade (I put first what is more important):

1.light to carry
2.Can cut nettles and blackberry bushes
3.Good quality
4.Can do adequate chopping
5.Should not stuck in wood when chopping
6.Compact size
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Point numbers 2 and 5 generally do not go together very well. You want a nice thin edge so you can get through the lighter & tougher brambles, but the edge must be very thick to keep it from binding in wood. I have axes and hatchets that bind in wood, and their edges are far too thick for blackberries. If you are only chopping wood 2" thick or less, the machete will be fine since a good swing or two will be enough to sever it completely.

Points 2 and 6 do not go well together. These plants bite back, so you want your hands a comfortable distance away from them while cutting. (especially considering they are often bent over, so to cut them off you have to reach into or under the tangled mass.) Thus it would be better to use a long blade with some reach. If you want to get by with a shorter blade, it may be best to use a stick to push the briars back, so you can chop them at the base.

Since points 5 and 6 are at the bottom of the list, it sounds like a stout machete will perform the most important functions best.
 
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