Tools won't close all the way

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Apr 24, 2015
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76
Hello.
I bought a used Victorinox Camper a while back. I have cleaned it and oiled it. But the can opener- and bottle opener tools won't close all the way, I have to push them down the last bit. Do anyone have any advise on what to do? Is it just wear and tear?
 
I am by no means an expert on this and will reply with my experience on a Swiss Army Knife I purchased at an online auction house. The model is not relevant, but, what you describe is very much like the problem I have had with the additional issue of the blades and tools being difficult to open and stepped or jerky when attempting to do so. My experience in the kitchen making candy and slicing sugary fruits such as apples some years ago and how hardened sugars can react to implements found in the kitchen may have been critical to solving it's problems. The first thing I did was to try to clean and lubricate the springs and joints. This helped some, but, it did not cure the problem. Next came a soak in warm soapy water followed by blowing the water out with an air hose, this was done several times. Then lube the blades, springs, tools and their pivot points. Remarkably, this SAK now open and closes as I expect it to.

The take away from this experience for me has been realizing that oil may have no or little affect on sugar contamination as a solvent as a person might expect it to. Also, the sides of the springs that contact the separation leaves need lubrication, not just the slip joint and hinge area. Pocket lint and debris can cause springs to become near non-functioning. And while I am here and this does not apply to this particular knife, there is a thing called dissimilar metal corrosion. This has to do with valence electron migration from one metal to another in near proximity that are different materials. This may take considerable time, as in years, to materialize to the naked human eye. This corrosion is also known as Galvanic corrosion. More information about Galvanic corrosion can be found at this link>>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Edited to add: Non-gumming oils will help keep your springs functioning over the long term. If your oil does not mention it is non-gumming on it's label it is likely it is not non-gumming oil.
 
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I am by no means an expert on this and will reply with my experience on a Swiss Army Knife I purchased at an online auction house. The model is not relevant, but, what you describe is very much like the problem I have had with the additional issue of the blades and tools being difficult to open and stepped or jerky when attempting to do so. My experience in the kitchen making candy and slicing sugary fruits such as apples some years ago and how hardened sugars can react to implements found in the kitchen may have been critical to solving it's problems. The first thing I did was to try to clean and lubricate the springs and joints. This helped some, but, it did not cure the problem. Next came a soak in warm soapy water followed by blowing the water out with an air hose, this was done several times. Then lube the blades, springs, tools and their pivot points. Remarkably, this SAK now open and closes as I expect it to.

The take away from this experience for me has been realizing that oil may have no or little affect on sugar contamination as a solvent as a person might expect it to. Also, the sides of the springs that contact the separation leaves need lubrication, not just the slip joint and hinge area. Pocket lint and debris can cause springs to become near non-functioning. And while I am here and this does not apply to this particular knife, there is a thing called dissimilar metal corrosion. This has to do with valence election migration from one metal to another in near proximity that are different materials. This may take considerable time, as in years, to materialize to the naked human eye. This corrosion is also known as Galvanic corrosion. More information about Galvanic corrosion can be found at this link>>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
Thanks for answering.
I have tried to lubricate the springs too, it helps a little. I will try do clean it again as you did. This galvanic corrosion sounds interesting, maybe that is whats wrong. I dont know how old the knife is so its quite possible. Even the toothpick feels gritty when I take it out or push it in the handle.
 
It is amazing what a soak in hot water and Dawn dishwashing soap will do for a SAK. Once the water cools enough to put your hand in, work the blades a few times underwater, then rinse it thoroughly with clear water and blow it out with air.
 
And to add to what Yab said, after washing I would spray it out with some WD-40 with the straw on the nozzle to get any remaining water and debris out, then lube with any lube I like.
 
Para limpiar el sak, primero uso wd40, luego uso un jabón para lavavajillas con agua, un cepillo, y por último lo lubro con aceite mineral cuando está seco, el wd40 al principio ayuda a limpiar más a fondo, sobre todo si son segundos- mano Sak.As a brush I use one of the bought teeth to use exclusively with the knives.
I don't recommend using Wd40 on wood and horn, nor do I know how it would behave with colored aluminum.
un saludo
 
I am by no means an expert on this and will reply with my experience on a Swiss Army Knife I purchased at an online auction house. The model is not relevant, but, what you describe is very much like the problem I have had with the additional issue of the blades and tools being difficult to open and stepped or jerky when attempting to do so. My experience in the kitchen making candy and slicing sugary fruits such as apples some years ago and how hardened sugars can react to implements found in the kitchen may have been critical to solving it's problems. The first thing I did was to try to clean and lubricate the springs and joints. This helped some, but, it did not cure the problem. Next came a soak in warm soapy water followed by blowing the water out with an air hose, this was done several times. Then lube the blades, springs, tools and their pivot points. Remarkably, this SAK now open and closes as I expect it to.

The take away from this experience for me has been realizing that oil may have no or little affect on sugar contamination as a solvent as a person might expect it to. Also, the sides of the springs that contact the separation leaves need lubrication, not just the slip joint and hinge area. Pocket lint and debris can cause springs to become near non-functioning. And while I am here and this does not apply to this particular knife, there is a thing called dissimilar metal corrosion. This has to do with valence election migration from one metal to another in near proximity that are different materials. This may take considerable time, as in years, to materialize to the naked human eye. This corrosion is also known as Galvanic corrosion. More information about Galvanic corrosion can be found at this link>>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Edited to add: Non-gumming oils will help keep your springs functioning over the long term. If your oil does not mention it is non-gumming on it's label it is likely it is not non-gumming oil.
I use Colgate Toothpaste (Baking Soda and Peroxide) on an old tooth brush. I open each blade one at a time until the spring is in it's outermost position. The toothpaste does a excellent job cleaning. After I brush I work the blades, open and close while the toothpaste is still wet. Then I rinse it off with hot water while brushing. I oil it up, including the springs, I work those blades until I get tired or nick a finger. Done this a number of times, works wonders.
 
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