TOPS B.O.B. Fieldcraft 154cm vs 1095

[ParacordMan1220]

I’ve been looking to get a TOPS BOB, but I’ve been having great difficulty deciding which steel to get.

I like the toughness and ease of sharpening that comes with the 1095, but I also like the corrosion resistance that comes with 154CM. Is leads me to wonder, does 1095 actually do anything better than 154CM? I’ve heard TOPS heat treat is better in 1095, but I have no experience with TOPS yet so I couldn’t say for sure

Which do you prefer in a bushcraft blade?

 

[shane45-1911]

TOPS is currently offering the best production steel 1095, IMO. Their heat treat is amazing, and I have never seen better edge retention in 1095.

I have a LOT of 1095 knives, and TOPS outperforms all of them (honorable mention to Becker and perhaps ESEE).

I hate the term "bushcraft knife". Any knife I have with me in the woods is a bushcraft knife. That said, I will always choose a high-carbon blade for general camp and woods usage. The only time I would consider a stainless blade is if the conditions truly warranted corrosion resistance. As long as I am able to wipe down a 1095 knife at the end of the day, I have never had ANY corrosion issues with them.

 

[Elgatodeacero]

I have an uncoated Tops BOB in 1095 and it has not rusted or tarnished at all.

I find the TOps BOB way too thick for me so I don’t love this knife, but I would not bother with the 154 cm If you are decided on this knife.

 

[bax229]

TOPS is currently offering the best production steel in 1095, IMO. Their heat treat is amazing, and I have never seen better edge retention in 1095.

I have a LOT of 1095 knives, and TOPS outperforms all of them (honorable mention to Becker and perhaps ESEE).

I hate the term "bushcraft knife". Any knife I have with me in the woods is a bushcraft knife. That said, I will always choose a high-carbon blade for general camp and woods usage. The only time I would consider a stainless blade is if the conditions truly warranted corrosion resistance. As long as I am able to wipe down a 1095 knife at the end of the day, I have never had ANY corrosion issues with it.

Funny, I was just researching this. Thanks for this info.

 

[gazz98]

I don't own a TOPS knife but I've heard good things about their 1095. Nothing wrong with a good ole fashioned 1095 blade for a camping/hiking knife. I do own a Becker and ESEE and I have no problems with 1095.

Get the 1095, save a few dollars, and put that extra $ toward some other gear. Just be sensible about your blade. Wipe it down after use and thrown some mineral oil on it when not in use. I'd suggest storing outside of the kydex or leather sheath.

I should add I own 154CM in folders, nothing wrong with the steel, I just see no benefit for it over 1095 in this application.

 

[Quiet]

I have an uncoated Tops BOB in 1095 and it has not rusted or tarnished at all.

I find the TOps BOB way too thick for me so I don’t love this knife, but I would not bother with the 154 cm If you are decided on this knife.

I'm with E Elgatodeacero here. I own the 1095 version, and it was in fact one of the first "nice" fixed blades I ever owned. Camped with it for a couple years, in fact and it did everything asked of it. It's scratched up and beaten on these days, but it's still sharp (and easily sharpened!) and I know it would still do anything I asked of it. True, it's not a "light" knife by any measure, but it has all those little "bushcraft" bells and whistles that TOPS (and other Bushcraft/survival knife makers) thought were important several years ago, like a bow-drill divot in the handle, and the exposed tang butt-end of the knife doubles as a firesteel scraping point.

Also, speaking about the BOB specifically, I've gifted one of these to several people over the years. I am not aware of any that has ever failed, or rusted out. They're a good knife, and if you like the design, I say get the 1095, and put the extra $40 you just saved into something else, like putting together a quality firemaking kit.

 

[Elgatodeacero]

its a good knife, very comfortable handle, just not my personal perfect knife....!

threads without pics are the worst!

 

[TwistedHollow]

I have one in 1095 and really like it. I stripped their coating off and put a forced patina on it. I have no complaints with it and does hold a razor sharp edge.

 

[ParacordMan1220]

its a good knife, very comfortable handle, just not my personal perfect knife....!

threads without pics are the worst!

View attachment 1737704

View attachment 1737724

Thanks, pictures always make things better!

I'm with E Elgatodeacero here. I own the 1095 version, and it was in fact one of the first "nice" fixed blades I ever owned. Camped with it for a couple years, in fact and it did everything asked of it. It's scratched up and beaten on these days, but it's still sharp (and easily sharpened!) and I know it would still do anything I asked of it. True, it's not a "light" knife by any measure, but it has all those little "bushcraft" bells and whistles that TOPS (and other Bushcraft/survival knife makers) thought were important several years ago, like a bow-drill divot in the handle, and the exposed tang butt-end of the knife doubles as a firesteel scraping point.

Also, speaking about the BOB specifically, I've gifted one of these to several people over the years. I am not aware of any that has ever failed, or rusted out. They're a good knife, and if you like the design, I say get the 1095, and put the extra $40 you just saved into something else, like putting together a quality firemaking kit.

Good advice! I just didn't know if the stainless steel added any benefits for the added cost.

I don't own a TOPS knife but I've heard good things about their 1095. Nothing wrong with a good ole fashioned 1095 blade for a camping/hiking knife. I do own a Becker and ESEE and I have no problems with 1095.

Get the 1095, save a few dollars, and put that extra $ toward some other gear. Just be sensible about your blade. Wipe it down after use and thrown some mineral oil on it when not in use. I'd suggest storing outside of the kydex or leather sheath.

I should add I own 154CM in folders, nothing wrong with the steel, I just see no benefit for it over 1095 in this application.

I always wipe mine carbon blades down well, but good advice with the outside of sheath storage. A little rust always finds its way onto the exposed edge and laser
etched markings. Leather definitely holds moisture, but I can't imagine kydex would unless it's put away wet.

Funny, I was just researching this. Thanks for this info.

Great minds think alike!

I have an uncoated Tops BOB in 1095 and it has not rusted or tarnished at all.

I find the TOps BOB way too thick for me so I don’t love this knife, but I would not bother with the 154 cm If you are decided on this knife.

Thanks for the input, definitely looking at a tumbled version over the powder coating but I wasn't sure how it would do against rust

TOPS is currently offering the best production steel 1095, IMO. Their heat treat is amazing, and I have never seen better edge retention in 1095.

I have a LOT of 1095 knives, and TOPS outperforms all of them (honorable mention to Becker and perhaps ESEE).

I hate the term "bushcraft knife". Any knife I have with me in the woods is a bushcraft knife. That said, I will always choose a high-carbon blade for general camp and woods usage. The only time I would consider a stainless blade is if the conditions truly warranted corrosion resistance. As long as I am able to wipe down a 1095 knife at the end of the day, I have never had ANY corrosion issues with them.

I always thought ESEE was a leader in heat treat. I'm glad im considering TOPS. Bushcraft is certainly a loose term, but I always use it in regards to finding the best knife to handle the typical chores of an average camping trip, tackling wood prep for fire building, food prep, etc.

 

[ParacordMan1220]

It seems the general consensus is 1095 over 154cm. I own several ESEEs and Beckers in 1095, which have done well for me over the past 10 years as well, I just didn't know if there was any benefits of 154cm. Looks like a tumbled BOB is what I'm leaning towards.

If the Tops BOB is not your favorite knife for fieldwork, what blades do you all recommend or prefer? Other blades similar to this I've found are the Becker BK16, ESEE 4, or ESEE Laser Strike, which I have already obtained over the years and wanted to try another type/style

 

[ironmanjohnny]

I’ve been looking to get a TOPS BOB, but I’ve been having great difficulty deciding which steel to get.

I like the toughness and ease of sharpening that comes with the 1095, but I also like the corrosion resistance that comes with 154CM. Is leads me to wonder, does 1095 actually do anything better than 154CM? I’ve heard TOPS heat treat is better in 1095, but I have no experience with TOPS yet so I couldn’t say for sure

Which do you prefer in a bushcraft blade?

I tried a Tops Bob in 1095 and it was the worst knife I ever owned. I dulled the blade quickly chopping and carving wood and was never able to sharpen it no matter what methods. Unbelievably frustrated with the inability to re sharpen this knife. And the rust.. oh the damn rust.. if I didn’t oil this thing after using it, it would be rusty as hell. I assume I just got a bad one. I am considering trying one in 154 since I have already invested in an upgraded sheath not knowing this knife was gonna suck but 200 bucks is a lot for such a mediocre knife.