Tops/buck csar-t

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Oct 25, 2010
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I've been looking at a TOPS/BUCK CSAR-T for a while now. If you own this knife, how do you feel about it and what are the good/bad about it? OR should i stay away and buy something else? I found this knife Online for $100.
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I have handled one of these at the local knife store, and have and continue to own several Buck knives.

Here's the issues I have with them:

I have yet to own a Buck knife that has a centered blade. I have owned many. The Csar I handled had an offset blade, as did every one the guy had in the store. I wanted to buy one, but could not warm up to the knife with the issued it had. My Strider / Buck Tarani had an offset blade when I bought it, and it got so bad that it now rubs against one of the scales.

The liner locks seem too thin for me. The knife was designed as a heavy duty user - but the liner lock on most Buck knives do not instill confidence.

The Csar was heavy as I remember it. I believe they doubled up on the SS liners on one side of the knife. Might be a beast to pocket carry for long periods.

Keep in mind that Buck Knives are relatively inexpensive, and the reason is that they give on tight tolerances during the production process. I recommenf you handle them before buying, or buy from someone that has a decent return policy.
 
I have 1 and it is IMHO that it's the stoughtest Buck knife yet. I think even tougher than the Buck/Strider. I know I my hear so flack for that comment, but the blade is thicker than the Buck/Striders, or altleast the Buck/Striders i have seen. You will have a hard time breaking the tip. The liners are thick stainless, and the lock up on mine is dead center. The G10 is very grippy and the thickest G10 I have or seen on a knife. It is a little over an ounce heavier than the 110. A lot of people carry the 110 and I dont see the weight as an issue. It's not the smallest knife and see that as more of a carry problem than weight. But the sheath that comes with it is very good and has 3-4 different carry options. I have to give credit to Buck/Tops on the knife. All USA knife and I paid in the $80's on the bay for a NIB.
 
The CSAR is a very tough knife. None of the blades will be centered exactly due to the way it is made with a very strong liner lock. If you're looking for a slicer this is not it. If you want a very strong, rugged, thick heavy folder this is it. It will be stiff when new. It is made to take abuse and an ATS34 blade with a BOSS heat treat is hard to beat. Buck also has a lifetime warranty with a good customer service reputation.
 
I have the Tops/Buck CSAR-T. My blade is centered. I think it is one of the strongest folders on the market. I've posted a couple of times since picking one up in March this year. Do a search for my posts, lots of pics. Also a well known shoppe down the free way from me in Meridian, Idaho sells this knife for a good bit less than $100.
 
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I've always had this question: since they have put two liners on the lock side, why don't they just make it a frame lock? it might be even lighter.
 
My blade is centered too, but the safety lock only overlaps the blade half way. Is that something I should be concerned about?
 
I own one. It is absolutely a very rugged knife, made of very good materials, which are what made me buy it. It is true that the blade cannot be centered because it effectively has one liner on one side and two on the other, one of those being the locking liner. But the blade actually touched the opposing liner when it arrived, and no amount of playing with the pivot has made that go away. When I open the knife with my left hand, the blade scrapes the liner audibly, and it annoys me. It doesn't leave any scratches so far though.
In all other respects the knife is more than satisfactory. It came sharp, and the ATS-34/Paul Bos stamping on the blade is very confidence inspiring. The locking liner is thick and and very tough to release, which is good. The G-10 scales are very nice. All in all a good buy, if the blade could just be lined up perfectly parallel to the single liner, I'd vote this knife excellent value for money.
 
Definately worth the money, I bought one back in August and I have carried it ever since. It is definately a pocket full. I did do some minor reprofiling of the edge, now it is wicked sharp. The pocket clip is a little tight at first, but it is confidence inspiring, just like the audible click when the lock engages. Like someone else already said it is not a slicer, but I already have my para for that. This knife is exactly what I was looking for.
 
I sent mine back to the store I bought it from because the liner safety only overlapped the blade 0.5mm. I suppose I could have sent it to buck, but I decided it would be easier to get my money back, then order a new one.
 
I own one. It is absolutely a very rugged knife, made of very good materials, which are what made me buy it. It is true that the blade cannot be centered because it effectively has one liner on one side and two on the other, one of those being the locking liner. But the blade actually touched the opposing liner when it arrived, and no amount of playing with the pivot has made that go away. When I open the knife with my left hand, the blade scrapes the liner audibly, and it annoys me.

Mine did this also. Try loosening all of the frame screws and the pivot. Tweek the pivot to align the blade then tighten the rest of the screws. Mine is still a little off center but not touching anymore.

I sent mine back to the store I bought it from because the liner safety only overlapped the blade 0.5mm. I suppose I could have sent it to buck, but I decided it would be easier to get my money back, then order a new one.

The knife was fine. The liner lock would have engaged itsef more as it was broken in. The next one may be the same. It is not a problem, just cycle it a few dozen times and it will settle in.
 
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