Torx Screw Stuck

D

dvsdev

Joined
Jul 4, 2007
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After taking apart my folder for cleaning, one of the torx screws (T6) got stuck. It is at the point where the torx driver can no longer grab on to the screw to tighten/loosen. Does anyone know of a way to get the torx screw out?
 
if you have a dremel tool with a cutoff disc and you can access the screw easily, cut a slot that a flat blade screwdriver will fit in. dont cut too deep or you will weaken the head. if you want to try something else, have someone hold the knife so you can use a hammer on the torx bit in hopes of loosening up the screw. get a really small pair of vise grips, clamp them on the bit, place the bit on top of the screw and hit it while turning the bit. you might luck out and get it to turn. a few good raps might loosen up the screw before you try to turn it. i hope this helps.
 
Just a thought - metals shrink a bit in cold temperatures, you can give it a try.
 
Richard, I do not have a dremel tool and the torx screw is stuck in the handle slab. I don't think it is possible to grab the screw with a clamp.
65535, do I just hold an ice cube on the screw?
 
dvsdev said:
After taking apart my folder for cleaning, one of the torx screws (T6) got stuck. It is at the point where the torx driver can no longer grab on to the screw to tighten/loosen. Does anyone know of a way to get the torx screw out?
Click to expand...

The guy who invented torx should be shot
 
you might be able to get a flat blade screwdriver to wedge in the screwhead. you might have to grind a screwdriver blade down a little to get a good fit though.
 
Is the torx head recessed or exposed from handle? If exposed, use a plier to turn it, if recessed, use the strongest epoxy you can find, glue a torx bit in. Let it set then turn. If that fails you'll have to drill it out, find someone with a drill press.
 
The torx screw is recessed. I'm going to first try the "freeze" method. I'm going to put a drop of water in the screw head, then put it in the freezer.
 
It's a bit late for this but, although I haven't disassembled many knives, I have disassembled lots of machinery. If reasonable pressure does not work, it's time for a penetrant:
Kroil or Monolex:
http://kanolabs.com/
http://www.le-inc.com/productPages.jsp?productID=226
Street wisdom is that Kroil is unmatched for parts rusted together. Notice I didn't say WD40. It's a terrific product, but it's not designed to be a penetrant and isn't in the same league with Kroil or Monolex. Acetone may help if the binding agent is a Loctite type product. Another time honored technique is heat.
I never re-assemble anything with threaded fasteners unless I put a tiny amount of anti-seize compound with molybdenum disulfide on the threads (Loctite required excepted) - ask for "Never-Seize" at your farm machinery store.
 
Drill it out. Use a bit the same dia. as the screw threads. When the bit reaches through the head of the screw, stop and only the threaded part will be left and the the handle slab will lift off the body of the screw. It has worked for me several times without any damage to anything. Hope this helps. Mike
 
I tried the "freeze" method, and it did not work. I do not have access to a drill, just common house appliances. Grinding down a screwdriver seemed like a good idea, but I do not have the tools to grind one down. I'm going to try to use some of Richard's suggestions, otherwise I think I might have to ship it back to the manufacturer.
 
If you want you can ship it to me (I live in Orange County) I could make a tool to fit the ruined thread, or drill it out for shipping only. I could probably find a screw to fit it too.
 
65535,
Will you have time to do this before the end of the month? Also, what city do you live in (if you don't mind me asking)?
 
dvsdev said:
The torx screw is recessed. I'm going to first try the "freeze" method. I'm going to put a drop of water in the screw head, then put it in the freezer.
Click to expand...

Freezing it will just make the screw tighter. To make something looser you heat it - didn't you ever run a tightly sealed jar under hot water to get the lid off?
 
I had a similar thing happen to me when I tried to reposition the clip on my BM 9053 AFO. The middle screw started to strip and I damn near plutzed.

I gave it a shot of WD40 and left it for a bit. I then had another crack at it using a slightly bigger torx driver. There was just enough metal left and it gave. Turns out it had been Loc-tited in place, why I don't know.

However, if yours is completely stripped and you don't have the tools and equipment to drill it out (like most of us) I think the best thing to do is return it to the manufacturer. Its a pain, but at least they have the equipment to do the job properly.

I agree on the torx screw assessment - they are crap and should be banned, especially the really small ones.
 
Bernoulli said:
It's a bit late for this but, although I haven't disassembled many knives, I have disassembled lots of machinery. If reasonable pressure does not work, it's time for a penetrant:
Kroil or Monolex:
http://kanolabs.com/
http://www.le-inc.com/productPages.jsp?productID=226
Street wisdom is that Kroil is unmatched for parts rusted together. Notice I didn't say WD40. It's a terrific product, but it's not designed to be a penetrant and isn't in the same league with Kroil or Monolex. Acetone may help if the binding agent is a Loctite type product. Another time honored technique is heat.
I never re-assemble anything with threaded fasteners unless I put a tiny amount of anti-seize compound with molybdenum disulfide on the threads (Loctite required excepted) - ask for "Never-Seize" at your farm machinery store.
Click to expand...


PB blaster is good too. The package looks like cheesy infomercial stuff but it works.
 
Buffalohump said:
I then had another crack at it using a slightly bigger torx driver. There was just enough metal left and it gave.
Click to expand...

A slightly larger driver would have been my suggestion too. I've done it in the past but there was something for the driver to grip.

I'd rather use a hex head screw if they were available.
 
I did try a T7 head on this T6 screw earlier, but I think it just made it worse. There is barely any shape left to the screw, and any more messing around will turn it round. I might be time to send it in.
 
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