The usual thinking is that big thick blades are the ones that get made with shock resistant steels, and the smaller ones get the more wear resistant steels. The recent wave of 80CrV2 Scandi blades bucking this trend to a degree.
However, if you consider the best kind of general forest knife to be one of the thinner blade carvers, wouldn't it be better to use L6 or S5 for thinner blades that may have to take on harder roles? Survival, bushcraft, etc sometimes requires beating a small knife up to make up for the fact that it isn't a chopper. Since it is already a 1/8" or thinner blade, would it be worth a drop in wear resistance to go from something like 52100 to have a thin blade that is much more difficult to break?
I'm also unsure how 1080 compares in toughness to "tough" steels like the S series or 5160 - I can never find definitive information about how a "pure" fine grained marstenite compares to shock alloys. But 80CrV2, 1080, L6, S5 and 15N20 tempered to relatively high hardnesses (59-61?) seem like a better bet than greatly tempering down hypereutectoid steels or going with thick geometry, and should still hold a decent edge. In other words, perform very well as knives with a low likelihood of breaking despite a thin profile.
Thoughts?
However, if you consider the best kind of general forest knife to be one of the thinner blade carvers, wouldn't it be better to use L6 or S5 for thinner blades that may have to take on harder roles? Survival, bushcraft, etc sometimes requires beating a small knife up to make up for the fact that it isn't a chopper. Since it is already a 1/8" or thinner blade, would it be worth a drop in wear resistance to go from something like 52100 to have a thin blade that is much more difficult to break?
I'm also unsure how 1080 compares in toughness to "tough" steels like the S series or 5160 - I can never find definitive information about how a "pure" fine grained marstenite compares to shock alloys. But 80CrV2, 1080, L6, S5 and 15N20 tempered to relatively high hardnesses (59-61?) seem like a better bet than greatly tempering down hypereutectoid steels or going with thick geometry, and should still hold a decent edge. In other words, perform very well as knives with a low likelihood of breaking despite a thin profile.
Thoughts?