Toughest spray paint?

S

SBaker34

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Jun 16, 2010
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I was at the automotive store for sandpaper the other day, and noticed the large assortment of heavy duty enamel, engine heat resistant, flame proof etc cans of paints. I wondered if perhaps there is something that could be used to re coat a machete or other cheap carbon steel tool that would hold up acceptably?
 
I have many years of working in automotive, and have used probably all those special paint in cans. I don't know anything in a store like this that will work for your application. If you are looking for an actual coating, look at GunKote or cerakote or similar things like this. But, if you are looking for just a coating for rust, then yes, most any of those will do.
But, if you plan on using it and the coating to stay on. Well then, no I don't think, because even the cerakote or other oven baked type coatings will eventually come off. So not entirely sure what you mean.

although, I have often wondered about actual powder coating. That is pretty tough stuff.

If you just want to throw it on temporarily as a coating for rust but want the best the hardware or auto store has, I would say perhaps the wheel paint. Also pretty tough stuff for paint in a can. Hope that helps.

dave
 
whatever you go w/ make sure to sandblast first - it will allow for the best adhesion!
 
What Dave said. Better coatings.

But if you must:

Razor is right. Sandblast it and a good etching primer. Then, I have had decent luck with krylon bbq pit black paint.
 
Sandpaper and clean it really good before hand. I imagine isopropyl alcohol or something of that nature will work good after the normal soap and water. I don't really spray paint anything all that often but I generally hit things with alcohol swabs before I use an adhesive (or anything really) to make sure I am working with a cleaner surface and I get far better results.

This is assuming there isn't a better option, this is outside of my expertise, and be sure to do a little research as there may be better options out there. So good luck and make sure you are working with a clean surface.
 
If you want give one of the rattle can products a shot a good primer is needed. I've found on tools boiled linseed oil works quite well. Wipe it on. Wait 30 to 45 minutes. Wipe off the excess. Ready for finish in 24 hours.
 
Yup, what others have said. I did forget that. Clean VERY well before you try anything. Even oils from your fingers you should be careful, but might not be too important for your application. I use acetone to clean before any type of coating or painting, even after sandblasting right before paint. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
dave
 
d.weglarz13 said:
Yup, what others have said. I did forget that. Clean VERY well before you try anything. Even oils from your fingers you should be careful, but might not be too important for your application. I use acetone to clean before any type of coating or painting, even after sandblasting right before paint. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
dave
Click to expand...

Yes, acetone is an amazing, residue free degreaser... I use it too
 
toughest is def Tan Obliterating compound by skillcraft.

best looking is Aervoe which is also pretty tough.

A few coats of obliterating compound is very durable.

duarcoat shake n spray isnt a true rattle can spray paint i guess but is the toughest coating you can get without oven cure. duracoat is also very chemical resistant.

i use reagent grade acetone from work and a scotch pad for prep.
ive gotten great results with krylon but prep is key.

Tan obliterating compound is another story, it is thicker than other options though.
 
Acetone is great you just have to be cautious. It's pretty hot stuff. Plastic will melt and other finishes can be harmed by it pretty easily. If you have some plastics or finishes to worry about, wax and grease remover or alcohol can work (your local paint supply house) or even a good wash in hot water with dawn dish detergent will leave it very clean. Alcohol can harm some plastics also.
 
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