Trestle Pine Topper (gunstock in S30V with cap lifter)

T

thefrank

Joined
Jan 26, 2013
Messages
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For months I have been waiting for this knife and now the new Trestle Pine Topper has finally arrived! After the Superior, the Portage and the Grand Portage it is the fourth folder from Trestle Pine and I am very happy to say that it is all that I hoped for!

It's a gunstock pattern with a S30V steel, saber ground clip blade that measures just under 3". It also features a cap lifter instead of a second blade. The handle of this one is made from old-growth oak with a beautiful wood grain. Of course this run comes again in many different handle options. Weighing in at 3.4 oz it is clearly no lightweight but with a closed length of approximately 3.5" it is still a very pocket friendly knife. One thing I really like about the TP Knives is that they without shields or laser etching. They leave no doubt that they were built to be used. With that thick saber ground blade it feels even sturdier than the TP Superior. Someone on Facebook said this morning that the Topper reminded him of a Buck 110. I think this is indeed where some of the inspiration for this knife came from. It is as if you took a 110 and turned it into a nicer, more pocket friendly slipjoint version with high quality steel, beautiful wood handles and the additional functionality of the cap lifter!

The Trestle Pine folders are made by Queen Cutlery exclusively for TSA Knife Shop. My TP Superior and also the Portage are really good quality knives. My personal experience with other Queen knives is not so good though and I have also heard some mixed things about the Grand Portage so I was a bit nervous before the Topper came out. But the fit&finish on this one is really good. Maybe not quite as good as some of my GEC made knives but close enough. The clip blade has really nice walk&talk, the cap lifter may need a drop of oil and some break in time. The grind may also need some attention but I have the feeling that this one will become a truely great EDC knife.

 
You know, I am not a big fan of S30V, and Trestle Pine gets some flack for not being "Traditional enough" but I like 90% of their products. The problem is that I haven't given them a shot.

I feel like that should change. I have a custom otw (JK Knives Improved Friction Folder in 154cm), and once that lands, I will be keeping an eye on the exchange for one of their knives...

I have always been of the mindset that traditional patterns don't need to hold true to the idea that they only use 1095. Stainless steel (and stellite) was founded in 1914*, if that isn't traditional, I don't know what is.

If stainless was good enough for 1914, it is good enough for me. Come October, I will be looking for a Trestle Pines.
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* Resource for data:
http://www.knife-expert.com/stlessh.txt
 
T thefrank
Could I get a pic broadside with the main open?
Also, could I get a pic in hand with the main open?

The Clip blade shape is a make or break for me. I have a feeling that this will be a "Make" in that decision.

Also, what size gloves do you wear?
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Thanks in advance.

Edited for grammatical reasonings
 
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I think the pattern is well designed. I have criticized one prior design but this one is well done. I'm happy to see it. I prefer less reactive metals for the bolsters but I'm interested in function and history, not aesthetics. And interest in aesthetics seems to be the majority. Sometimes Queen's blades are thick even when flat ground but this one is saber ground so it is intended to be a bit thick. My own preference is for a flat grind but saber grinds seem to be popular. The pins look well done. Some of Queen's recent knives have had some really odd pins... I saw a recent small run from Queen with one domed, one smashed and one flat. It looked amateur and didn't give me much confidence in the construction. The pins on this knife look professionally done. Do you have any photos of the springs and the well with the blades closed? Looks well done. Good job Trestle Pines and Queen.
 
In the pic on the bottom right of your collage, the liner looks proud enough to be a liner lock.

Is this a locking pattern or is the liner proud and a F&F issue?
(It is not observable in the other angles.)
 
Goose 7279 said:
I believe thats a reflection.
Click to expand...
I hope so.
I also noted it at the drop of the dogleg (right side of the peak, same pic), so I thought it might be the case. But that is one Big reflection.
 
NJBillK said:
You know, I am not a big fan of S30V, and Trestle Pine gets some flack for not being "Traditional enough" but I like 90% of their products. The problem is that I haven't given them a shot.

I feel like that should change. I have a custom otw (JK Knives Improved Friction Folder in 154cm), and once that lands, I will be keeping an eye on the exchange for one of their knives...

I have always been of the mindset that traditional patterns don't need to hold true to the idea that they only use 1095. Stainless steel (and stellite) was founded in 1914*, if that isn't traditional, I don't know what is.

If stainless was good enough for 1914, it is good enough for me. Come October, I will be looking for a Trestle Pines.
------
* Resource for data:
http://www.knife-expert.com/stlessh.txt
Click to expand...

I really like the Trestle Pine knives because they do mix traditional and modern. The carbon steel on my GEC knives is great but especially now in summer I sweat enough that I have to be very careful with carbon steel. And it's not like Queen or GEC are only using carbon steel. I definitely prefer S30V over 1095 for an EDC knife but if I had the choice I would have picked something like 154CM or N690Co. S30V holds a killer edge but it's expensive and difficult to sharpen. These other steels are in my opinion a good compromise between edge retention, sharpening and price.

NJBillK said:
T thefrank
Could I get a pic broadside with the main open?
Also, could I get a pic in hand with the main open?

The Clip blade shape is a make or break for me. I have a feeling that this will be a "Make" in that decision.

Also, what size gloves do you wear?
-----
Thanks in advance.

Edited for grammatical reasonings
Click to expand...

I'm on my way to bed now, I will try to take some more pics tomorrow. You can also check out the TSA Knife Shop website. Greg posts actual pictures of all knives from both sides and one in hand.

supratentorial said:
I think the pattern is well designed. I have criticized one prior design but this one is well done. I'm happy to see it. I prefer less reactive metals for the bolsters but I'm interested in function and history, not aesthetics. And interest in aesthetics seems to be the majority. Sometimes Queen's blades are thick even when flat ground but this one is saber ground so it is intended to be a bit thick. My own preference is for a flat grind but saber grinds seem to be popular. The pins look well done. Some of Queen's recent knives have had some really odd pins... I saw a recent small run from Queen with one domed, one smashed and one flat. It looked amateur and didn't give me much confidence in the construction. The pins on this knife look professionally done. Do you have any photos of the springs and the well with the blades closed? Looks well done. Good job Trestle Pines and Queen.
Click to expand...

I really liked the pattern of the Superior. The Portage was a bit odd, the Grand Portage looked OK but it didn't tempt me enough to buy one. This one seems to become my favorite in the TP series. I was also not so sure about the bolsters when they started with brass but now that the patina process has started I like it actually better than nickel silver. The nickel silver scratches so easily, I feel like it is more something for the type of knives you keep in a showcase. I would have probably tried stainless bolsters on the TP knives but the brass works for me too!
The pins are totally flush. I thought these domed and smashed pins were a traditional thing? I have that on my Northwoods knives, too! I will take some more pictures tomorrow. There are too small gaps, one next to the bolster on the backside (barely noticeable with the dark wood) and one next to the spring of the clip blade. But nothing major and nothing compared to what I have seen on some Queen and S&M folders

NJBillK said:
In the pic on the bottom right of your collage, the liner looks proud enough to be a liner lock.

Is this a locking pattern or is the liner proud and a F&F issue?
(It is not observable in the other angles.)
Click to expand...
No, it's a slipjoint knife and the liners are totally flush. I think what you mean is the cut-out on the caplifter that is peaking out just over the frame.
 
thefrank said:
I really liked the pattern of the Superior. The Portage was a bit odd, the Grand Portage looked OK but it didn't tempt me enough to buy one. This one seems to become my favorite in the TP series. I was also not so sure about the bolsters when they started with brass but now that the patina process has started I like it actually better than nickel silver. The nickel silver scratches so easily, I feel like it is more something for the type of knives you keep in a showcase. I would have probably tried stainless bolsters on the TP knives but the brass works for me too!
The pins are totally flush. I thought these domed and smashed pins were a traditional thing? I have that on my Northwoods knives, too! I will take some more pictures tomorrow. There are too small gaps, one next to the bolster on the backside (barely noticeable with the dark wood) and one next to the spring of the clip blade. But nothing major and nothing compared to what I have seen on some Queen and S&M folders.
Click to expand...

The material for the bolsters is just a matter of preference. Some like the way oxidation looks but corrosion is of no benefit to me. I don't romanticize it. It's just a natural process. I'm okay with it on 1095 since the performance of the steel and the price of the steel is good. The only reason that I use 1095 is because it is an affordable steel that takes a razor sharp edge and holds it reasonably well. I don't romanticize the oxidation of 1095 but there are topics just about patina posted here on Bladeforums. Lots of folks seem to like it.

Peened, flush ground, and domed pins are all "traditional". Almost 100 years ago manufactures moved to domed instead of hand peened heads--there were changes in manufacturing processes. Flush ground pins have existed a long time. There is usually some logic to whether pins are ground flush or domed. But this example was just shoddy workmanship. In contrast, the pins on this Trestle Pines knife look okay. I probably shouldn't have mentioned the pins on a single recent example. I didn't intend for it to be a focus since the pins look fine on this Trestle Pines knife. It was just a recent example from Queen that I saw. I'm not saying that it is typical of all Queen knives. I was surprised when I saw it.
 
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I have the Portage and I will say the fit and finish is very good. Like the 154cm. That is about the only line I would ever think about owning from queen.
 
I like the use of stainless steels and an un-orthodox approach to pattern designs but as I'm very unkeen on brass, the use of it for bolsters makes it a no-no for me. Good practical user mind.
 
Will Power said:
I like the use of stainless steels and an un-orthodox approach to pattern designs but as I'm very unkeen on brass, the use of it for bolsters makes it a no-no for me. Good practical user mind.
Click to expand...

This man is reading my mind.
like stainless. Like variations on a theme. Don't want brass on a knife.
 
NewBlades16 said:
I have the Portage and I will say the fit and finish is very good. Like the 154cm. That is about the only line I would ever think about owning from queen.
Click to expand...
I agree on the Portage, but my favorite is the TP Superior. I have one as a user and it is sweet! I'm on the fence with the Topper. Frankly, I don't need the bottle opener, so I don't want to pay four it. I like the steel and the cola bottle design. Most of all I like the exotic woods being offered. The old growth oak is really playing on my mind. Greg should be commended for taking a risk on these knives.
 
NJBillK said:
In the pic on the bottom right of your collage, the liner looks proud enough to be a liner lock.

Is this a locking pattern or is the liner proud and a F&F issue?
(It is not observable in the other angles.)
Click to expand...
I've got one of these too, my initial impression is posted in reviews and testing. What you are seeing in that pic, if I'm right, is a gap under the very high sitting caplifter. Mine is the same. It is surprisingly still comfortable in hand despite how high it sits. I don't know why they couldn't make it sit low in the handle like my GEC beer scout?
 
I like how Greg has thought outside the box on these with brass bolsters, choice of steels, and the various wood covers. The Superior is my favorite so far, but I blew it not grabbing one of the blue burl woods when I could have. I like the gunstock style of the Topper, but would never use a bottle opener.
 
spyderg said:
I've got one of these too, my initial impression is posted in reviews and testing. What you are seeing in that pic, if I'm right, is a gap under the very high sitting caplifter. Mine is the same. It is surprisingly still comfortable in hand despite how high it sits. I don't know why they couldn't make it sit low in the handle like my GEC beer scout?
Click to expand...

link to spyderg's review: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/trestle-pines-topper.1512592/

They didn't take advantage of the shape of the gunstock handle to bury the caplifter. I think they probably used the same die for the caplifter that they used on other knives. New dies is an additional cost. ...It is by no means an inexpensive knife, but new dies might make it even more expensive.
 
They didn't take advantage of the shape of the gunstock handle to bury the caplifter. I think they probably used the same die for the caplifter that they used on other knives. New dies is an additional cost. ...It is by no means an inexpensive knife, but new dies might make it even more expensive.[/QUOTE]

That's part of what I was thinking when I mentioned the parts knife thing. Rather than making a blade and lifter to fit the handle, they chose what they already had and felt it worked well enough, and it does, but could have been an epic knife with a well fit lifter and a full flat ground blade if you ask me.
 
spyderg said:
I've got one of these too, my initial impression is posted in reviews and testing. What you are seeing in that pic, if I'm right, is a gap under the very high sitting caplifter. Mine is the same. It is surprisingly still comfortable in hand despite how high it sits. I don't know why they couldn't make it sit low in the handle like my GEC beer scout?
Click to expand...
Bingo, that is it.
It is the gap on the underside/interior of the cap lifter.

Can the kick be filed to get it to sit lower, or is the tip near contacting the spring already?
 
Can the kick be filed to get it to sit lower, or is the tip near contacting the spring already?[/QUOTE]

There's a ton of room for the lifter to sit lower from what I can tell, but it would likely make the spring not flush anymore. I did that on my#15 to drop the sheepsfoot a bit and the liners are a touch proud of the spring when closed now. I'm ok with it but some people are pickier. On the Topper filing the lifters kick would drop the tip a bit but the tang(forgive me if my terminology is wrong) the part that meets the spring when open, will still poke out a lot. I think in my review I point out that although the lifter sits very high and takes away from the ergos of the pattern, it is still quite comfortable. Keep in mind this is coming from a lefty however so the "pokey" part is further over for me and my finger presses more on the bolster before it. It is more noticeable in my right hand. If I used it right handed I'd likely sand the corner a touch.
 
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