Trip to Tandy leather

JTknives

Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jun 11, 2006
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Tomarow I'm driving out of my small town to a few hrs away and thy have a Tandy leather store. My plan is to pick up a handful of leather dyes, tools and stamps. I have never tooled leather befor so I started looking at stamps and was instantly overwhelmed with the shear number of choices. I'm looking for advice on a good general sample of what I need for patterns/borders exc. Also anything else you think I might need? Thank you guys, your the best
 
My recommendation would be to skip Tandy. Buy a couple of border and/or basketwaeve stamps from Barry King and order some good leather from Wickett and Craig. Way better leather that doesnt cost much more. The stamps are a fair bit more, but make a way better impression
 
Most popular are Basket Weaves, Borders, Shaders. They should have Plenty of scrap leather(arg arg arg) so try them out first to see which sizes you like. You can spend a lot of $$ on stuff you may never use. Not sure what tools you have but a good Edger and Creaser are handy tools.
 
My recommendation would be to skip Tandy. Buy a couple of border and/or basketwaeve stamps from Barry King and order some good leather from Wickett and Craig. Way better leather that doesnt cost much more. The stamps are a fair bit more, but make a way better impression
I agree with Barry King tools....expensive but can be added in the future. Barry King #2 Edger best on the market. Check out Osborne tools also I've picked up a few Oldies that are amazing quality and performance.
 
I have my leather and basic tools, like a groover and spacer. I need more needles and some dies. I liked the idea of Tandy becaus I can get my hands of stuff and kinda see what I might need.
 
I don't know if it is my Tandy store or all of them but the leather does not look good and carries a premium price. I started ordering from The Leather Guy, looks much better.
Tandy has three quality of dies/stamps. Get the better ones, but they are still not as good as the Kings, but will last a while.
I too, like to put my hands on the stuff, and you can test the stamps and such out before you buy, which helps you get a good one.
I found a stitching pony to be a wonderful help to me.
 
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One thing I found helpful once I wet the Leather was "Glassing" it smooth. Tandy has a Glasser and works good just let the leather dry a little smooth it out and the stamps come out real crisp definition.

I like Wickett & Craig more expensive but worth every penny!
 
The best needles are John James harness needles. They are harder to thread, but the eye won't break like the needles Tandy has. I ordered mine from Rocky Mountain Leather. I ordered a pack of 25 and have yet to break 1 (I've broken over 10 of the Tandy needles). I also agree with getting Bary King stamps. They make a much better impression than the Tandy ones. I started out with a camouflage size #2, a basket weave size #2, and a matte checkered beveler also size #2. I plan on eventually adding to these, but they work for now. I also got a swivel knife from them. I had read the blade in the Tandy ones is terrible but some people have sharpened them and the worked ok. I also suggest making a stitching pony. It makes sewing the sheath so much easier. And for what they are you can make one extremely inexpensively. Some places want over $100 for them. I made one for about $3.
 
Watch Craigslist or your local classifieds. I picked up a collection of leather working stuff from the kids of an old man that had passed away. He'd been at it since the 60's and had a LOT of tooling, most of it is the better Tandy stuff. I also got tons of saddle leather from them. I paid $250 for everything.
https://imgur.com/JK93PwD

https://imgur.com/JK93PwD
 
As you were told custom stamps are the best. If you want Tandy most stores have a piece of leather next to the stamp bins, try several of the same stamp. Because they are molded instead of machined, they each can give different images.
Judski(sp) are good but are carbon steel while Kings are stainless. Just a little more care but as good. eBay occasionally has some listed.
 
I haven't dealt with Tandy in 3-4 years. I buy Herman oak leather from a leather supplier, and everything else tool and supply wise either antique stuff from Bruce Johnson, or from a Mennonite harness makers supply up here that beats the piss out of Tandy for price, service, and quality.
 
If you are looking for dye for curly maple, make sure you grab a little bottle of the British tan stuff.
 
Yep Barry King tools. They are more expensive but worth it. Actually in leather tools they are kinda mid priced. We have stamps and tools that cost way more than the BKs and don't like em as much. On a day to day basis, BKs are what get used around here. Stamps, edgers, mauls, swivel knives etc. Build your own roundknives and skivvers. AEB-L at 63RC will cut leather all day, .040 and thinner is what ya want.

A basic stamp set for tooling for me would be: a medium size basket stamp, a medium sized camo border, a seeder, a smaller carlos border stamp (also called an hour glass stamp, a meander stamp or a lazy W stamp) and a arrow shaped border stamp of some kind. That would take care of about 90 percent of the tooling I do on sheaths, holsters, belts, spur straps, rifle scabbards, chinks/chaps etc.

If you want to do some carving you will need (besides the camo border and the seeder above) a set of bevellers in different sizes, a petal lifter (or undercut beveller), a couple of pear shades (thumb prints), a stop or two, a couple of backgrounders and maybe a veiner. Of course for carving you do need a good swivel knife too.

Definitly an edger or two. We have BKs and I also am fond of an Osborne #2 and #3 that I use daily, they do cut a little different though. The BK is more of a rounded edge and the Osborne more of a facet edge.

Wickett and Craig leather has been mentioned and you won't find better. Herman Oak is also a premium leather that I use a lot of. I tend to use HO in lighter weights and the WC in 8-10 oz. Neither is inexpensive. After having a wholesale account with Weaver for almost 30 years, I can no longer recommend them and am ceasing all business (yeah there's a story, actually several) with them.

I heartily dislike dyeing leather and almost won't. Both the tanneries above will make drum dyed leather in black and various browns, use that if color is needed. You are just so much further along doing so. Again not cheap but way better.

The wife tooling a yoke for a pair of wooly chaps. Here she is doing the background:

1QKwATO.jpg


Finished tooling. So in the basket stamp areas the tools used are: a seeder (small dot in the corners), camo border (the half round stamp around the edges) and a medium sized basket stamp. The border around the stamped areas has also been cut with a swivel knife and then beveled.

2FJmYdw.jpg


On the flower carving the tools used are: the swivel knife, bevellers, petal lifter, pear shaders, two different veiners (squiggly lines on the leaf and not so squiggly on the flower), a flower center stamp, a stop and a mulesfoot (the arrow shaped stamps on the stems) and bar backgrounders.

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Oiled, finished and put together on the buffalo woolies we made for a customer:

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Some holsters I did prior to a show. The few tools I mentioned for stamping did all these:

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Ya can do a lot of work with just those few stamps I mentioned. For carving you do need a lot more.

Forgot to mention glassing or slicking the leather prior to stamping is a vital step as was mentioned above. The wife uses the Tandy glass slicker, however I much prefer a knife handle block of ligum vitae I got from Ann Sheffield about a hundred years ago. Just rounded the corners off. I think it does a better job. The roundknife and this block are the only two tools that never get put away. They always live on the workbench.
 
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In all the reading I've done on the subject I've never seen this explained. Why are leather tooling mallets round? That seems like trying to drive a pin punch with a ball peen and I'm sure there's a reason, but it's not obvious to me.
 
In all the reading I've done on the subject I've never seen this explained. Why are leather tooling mallets round? That seems like trying to drive a pin punch with a ball peen and I'm sure there's a reason, but it's not obvious to me.
Traditional cabinetmaking mallets are round too. It seems backwards but it works great. You can choke up on them for good control, and it makes no difference which way it faces. Not sure how it originated but it works
 
I'll give ya a guess but its probably an educated guess. Back in the day the heads were made of stacked rawhide. Rawhide protected the stamp and was replaceable just like our poly ones now. I'm guessing the rawhide was turned on a lathe to make the head, thus round. Now practical aspect. in good tooling like in forging mass is important. Thats acheived through the stone underneath and also large maul with small impact surface hitting the end of the tool (pro tip: many guys will grind the end of their stamps flat to make a better strikable surface for the maul) right in that sweet spot. The round shape also allows more control in walking certain stamps such as bevellers but granted there is a learning curve. They do make more mallet style mauls and we have one. We never use it. I just finished punching buckle holes in 6 rifle scabbard straps. I have an old tooling maul that I use for that. It has a stacked leather handle that has been turned. It has a worn out poly head on it now but before that it had a rawhide head. I can't remeber how long ago I bought it.
 
I do all my leather work in two easy steps: 1) send the blade to Paul Long, 2) make a payment through PayPal.
(I do understand wanting to do it yourself if you are making a living at this).
 
Another guess on the round head is you never have to look at the maul to see what direction the head is facing. just pick it up and it is read to make contact. You don't have to take your eyes off your work.
 
I really like this tooling and was trying to figure out what combination of stamps where used to do it. I can pick out the few individual stamps I think but I'm not a leather expert.
tooledsheath.jpg
 
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