Triple quench secrets to be revealed?(or not)

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rdangerer, (or can I call you Rob now?)

Just to play the Devil's advocate...

I once ate at a McDonalds in Fiji. The beef tasted strange after eating American beef all of my life. Somone told me that it had been imported from Australia which would explain the strange accent on the flavor.:D I had similar experiences with the Coke and Mt. Dew.

All of this leads me to believe that no matter what process Pig decides to utilize over in the frigid part of the world he writes us from, his results will never match ours exactly.;)

Rick
 
Heating in grinding should not be a problem unless you get above the critical temp, and it might be more of a problem with the more complex steels.The blues and purples are about 600F.
 
.in your mind, forge 2 blades, each the pure copy of the other,,,then heat treat one of the blades 2 more times than the other,,,mix the blades up,,,now test them in any and all ways known to man to test them,,,Rc test, Electric-gun test. bend them, cut rope, cut fish, cut steel, break them,,,whatever type of test you got in mind...the question is..

"Will you be able to notice any difference based on one haveing had 2 extra heat treatments?"
 
I don't think there will be any difference.Remember that as I explained in a previous post , the purpose of austenitizing is to dissolve the carbide and produce a homogenious austenite.
 
Originally posted by mete
I don't think there will be any difference.Remember that as I explained in a previous post , the purpose of austenitizing is to dissolve the carbide and produce a homogenious austenite.

Well now, Mete, I think you are overlooking some possible differences. The multiple quenched blade would be more likely to have distortion and decarb.;)

So many interesting topics have came up in this thread that I have found it very interesting, I would have liked to have seen many of the topics put into entirely new threads so that they could have been given the attention they were due without distraction.

I have purposely avoided the whole triple quench thing because I did not come here to shake up the status quo, that is actully one of the reasons that I took so long to register here. Now that I am here I must say that I am very impressed with the constructive way that the folks in this thread have handled opposing view points, with this sort of attitude, a whole lot of great information can be shared by many.
 
By differences I meant improvements.On the downside three wastes your time ,energy and more chance of decarb and warp.
 
I just went back and reread the original question in this thread. Either i didn't understand the original question or this thread has wandered.
Original question: Will one heat and soak till solution and quench; work as well as three heat to just critical and quench.
Nineteen pages of opinion, facts, theories, defense mechanisms, packages, mysticism, attacks and counter attacks.
If you really want to know, subsitute this one part for the other and try it. If you do it honestly and with an open mind, you will find answers. If you are trying to protect your favorite theory you are going to get the answer you want before you start.
What is it about bladesmiths that makes them so damn hardheaded? mike
 
Originally posted by m l williams
I just went back and reread the original question in this thread. Either i didn't understand the original question or this thread has wandered.
Original question: Will one heat and soak till solution and quench; work as well as three heat to just critical and quench.
Nineteen pages of opinion, facts, theories, defense mechanisms, packages, mysticism, attacks and counter attacks.
If you really want to know, subsitute this one part for the other and try it. If you do it honestly and with an open mind, you will find answers. If you are trying to protect your favorite theory you are going to get the answer you want before you start.
What is it about bladesmiths that makes them so damn hardheaded? mike
:confused:

will a hard head please past the pop corn:D



edited to add the quote
 
Mete....

okay, That was a very good, clear answer to my question...

I understand you to say that the 1 heat treated blade will not be any "better" than the same blade heat treated 3 times...

However:
however now I will change my question slightly to understand a bit more about what you are telling me.

"In your mind forge 2 blades, each a pure copy of the other. this time, do whatever heat treatment, "With The Soak Time Also"
for each blade, just do this very same thing 2 more times for one of the blades.

Now mix up the blades so you dont know what one was heated the 2 more times and then test them both with evey test known to man.

the RC test, the cutting tests, the bend test, the break-em-and-have-a-look test....every test you can dream of doing...

Now would you be able to tell any difference?

(remember for this question we will assume that you did the Heat treating 100% correctly each time, no over heating by accident, no goof-ups)

Could you ever notice any differences?
 
DQ,
I'm starting another thread entitled, "Consistency". I will get quite a bit off topic to respond in this thread to answer your question.

Craig
 
Decarb: "Rex shot a chemistry on a 5 1/2" round bar, Doc forged it to a 3" bar, Rex sent it to me.
I forged the 3" to four billets and blades from them, send some of the blades to Rex, multiple quenched and hardened, surface had scale from heat treat left on. A chemistry on the surface showed one point down on carbon. Rex polished the scale off and and shot another chemistry. The result, "no measurable loss of carbon from the chemistry of the origonal bar".

Warp: Warp comes from uneven forging, When blades are forged evenly they do not warp. Warp can also be the result of uneven grinding and sometimes from uneven heating when hardening.
 
One of the the main advantages of this kind net discussions is to have some fun.

Now some philosophy mixed in makes all even better.

I have been understood to be not respectable, not taking everything as words of the Bible, but a possible thing to studied more.

Now, Ed Fowler participating this discussion I find completely (not near) agree with him at this "philosophical level".

Ed Fowler:

I tossed the science into the slough in front of my shop and began to explore the simple world of the knife, free from the traditions that the science treads in.

An American totally uneducated man Thomas Alva Edison invented the electrical bulp (a pretty nice thing to have).

Thomas Alva Ediason tossed with the science and got something useful out. Science for a blacksmith is useful but not necessary.

There are separate fields the pure science and technichis (or applications).

A technichs can live without the pure science (proceering slower and not being able to do as much).

I have also "a scientificial formal education", I think that a common harmful wrong idea about science is:
"Science equals to a formal education and formal degrees and a work done based on these."

The science existed before formal education and the current "science tower structure" was built only to continue the work of the men just humbly and seriously experimenting to learn something worth to learn, not asking any formal degree for themselves.


pig
 
"In your mind forge 2 blades, each a pure copy of the other. this time, do whatever heat treatments you want

"With The Soak Time Also" for each blade, just do this very same thing 2 more times for one of the blades.

Now mix up the blades so you dont know what one was heated-treated (with correct soak times) the 2 more times and then test them both with evey test known to man.


Now would you be able to tell any difference?"
 
Originally posted by mete
By differences I meant improvements.On the downside three wastes your time ,energy and more chance of decarb and warp.

I knew that you would be well aware of those issues, I was just having fun;)
 
I doubt you would see any difference........Pig , I just remembered an interesting bit of information involving 'cryo'. At one time the russian army had buttons made of tin ( pewter ?). In extreme cold weather the buttons came apart because there is tranformation to another crystal structure!!!
 
Originally posted by Ed Fowler
Decarb: "Rex shot a chemistry on a 5 1/2" round bar, Doc forged it to a 3" bar, Rex sent it to me.
I forged the 3" to four billets and blades from them, send some of the blades to Rex, multiple quenched and hardened, surface had scale from heat treat left on. A chemistry on the surface showed one point down on carbon. Rex polished the scale off and and shot another chemistry. The result, "no measurable loss of carbon from the chemistry of the origonal bar".

Warp: Warp comes from uneven forging, When blades are forged evenly they do not warp. Warp can also be the result of uneven grinding and sometimes from uneven heating when hardening.

Unfortunately, this is exactly what I meant by not wanting to shake up the status quo, I am now in the position of taking on Ed Fowler himself or compromising on what I see as correct. I should have stayed away because my principles require that I stand by whatI hold as correct.

I must first say that Ed has my utmost respect for the position he holds in the knifemaking community and I would in no way wish to tell him how to make knives. Nobody can argue that he has found success with the way he does things. So I will still not delve into the original triple quench debate if, I can avoid it.

In my statement, I said that the multiple quenched blade would be more likely to have decarb, I didn’t say that it was an absolute that it would. Decarb is the result of high temperatures in environments or atmosphere conducive to carbon loss. It is just undeniable logic that a blade subjected to these conditions more times would have a higher probability of it occurring. No bladesmithing or metallurgy, just simple odds.

Although distortion can be caused by an infinite amount of things I must strongly and respectfully disagree with the reasons given. It does not jive with basic metallurgical precepts or with any of my experience. I wish that there was a simple universal rule that stated blades cannot warp if forged evenly but the universe that I have to deal with will not honor that bargain. I would go with this one if all blades were heat treated immediately following the last hammer blow.

Distortion results from uneven stress in the blade, this can come from uneven heating, uneven cooling, inconsistant microstructures, residual strain from machining operations, unnoticed decarb, looking cross-eyed at the steel etc… You list forging as most likely and uneven heating as sometimes. I would definitely invert this. Uneven heating and cooling offers a much greater threat of distortion than forging if the proper follow up heat treatments have been applied. Normalizing and annealing will simply wipe the slate clean of that time you hit the blade three times on the left side instead of two. If this were not the case nobody could get away with making straight blades out of leaf springs. Of course this could fall on deaf ears to anyone who firmly embraces the concept of steel having a memory.

Now lets talk about internal stresses, there is nothing better for the highest stress than untempered (body centered tetragonal) martensite. Left un-tempered, steel in this state can warp or crack all on its own, not even forging with your feet, on one side only, could give you this affect. Reheating and quenching from such a state is certainly increasing the odds of distortion. I have had blades that I have thrown away because they moved on the first quench and I tried to simply reheat them, straighten them and re-quench (yes, with another proper austenitizing heat). The problem was simply increased on every step by all the new variables until I decided it would be more efficient to go with a new blade.

And once again if distortion manifests itself in the heating and quenching operation, then it is just pure logical odds that the blade subjected to this more times will be more prone to it.

Mete was doing so well, I really should have kept my mouth shut.
:(
 
Kevin: I fully understand your sentiment. I also chased the cause of the warping blade, I tried heating more here and less there one side first, super even sequences. Rex kept saying "You are forging more on one side than the other" Again and Again he reminded me.

Finally I heard what he was saying, I started carefully keeping track of relative movement, not just hammer blows but displacement of steel. Guess what? No more warp!!

Everybody knows it is important to forge evenly, one side to the other, I knew that but figured close was good enough. It isn't. You have to be exact or damn close.

You cannot rely on bar stock the approximat width of the finished blade to have been worked evenly, I made this mistake when using thin bar stock and dismissed the even forging rule comming to believe close was good enough.

Starting with the 5 1/2 inch round bar stock allows greater control over even forging and guess what, the old rule survives.

Normalizing does not negagte the effects of uneven forging unless accompanied by textbook annealing, text book annealing grows grain and negates the effects of forging. ((So I Believe)).

I believe that even forging, normalizing, 2 blade smith normalizing heats, one full normalizing. Then low temp. annealing heats (850 f) will maintain the benefits of forging, when backed by even forging (side to side) you can come up with a superior forged blade. It took me 30 years to figure it out, thanks to Rex and a friend of his we are getting closer all the time.

Doubtless many will argue the points with me, that is OK, sane debate is welcome. Kevin, I am willing to discuss with you any time, e mails or here.

I don't know much about the science of steel, only what works for the forged blade, my way. I try to keep all words to the level they can be understood by the new commer. The bigger the words, the less the understanding, I feel that we must develop language the new commer can understand.

All forging on the previously discussed blades was done at 1,625 f or below, the bladesmith can recognize this temp as the scale that forms is fine like small snow flakes. This is an easy temp to folllow. You can see it!

All my satements are in refference to our lot of 52100 steel and specifically one bar out of that lot.
 
I have a better insight as to where you are coming from now, it does appear that stresses from forging would be of more concern, using your techniques.
 
I have found this topic to be of great intrest and so do lots of other knifemakers seeing that this post has been visited several thousand times.
Kevin, I appreciate your imput. If I remember right you were a finalist in the ABS cutting contest at the last Blade show in Atlanta and used a damascus blade. This indicates to me that you really know how to make a great damascus blade. It would be nice if you would some time tell how you heat treat your damascus.
I have been interested in the triple quench for quite some time. As I have stated before on this forum, I have both of Ed's books and have saved every blade article he ever wrote on the subject.
As soon as the weather cools off in NM I plan to compare the triple quench with the single quench.
To do this I purchased some 52100 from Rex Walter. My problem is that I can't find where Ed explains his 52100 heat treating process from beginning to end.
I have just re-read some of the blade articles from the 90's and found some of the information on quenching oil temperature and tempering temperatures to be contridictory.
Ed, would you be willing to reveal your latest methods of heat treating 52100 from begining to end so those of us who want to try it and see for our selves can do so?
This thread has had lots of interesting theories advanced. I would recomend that all interested knifemakers make a single quench and triple quench blade and compare them.
 
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