Tru-Oil alternative?

E

Emphasiski

Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Messages
402
I can only find tru-oil online. Is there something I can use to finish my handle that can be purchased locally? maybe from walmart, lowes, homedepot, acehardware etc?
 
The only other product that is similar to Tru-Oil, that I am aware of is called "Arrow" wood finish....and I've never seen it anywhere other than on the net.

It you have to get it locally, something like Danish Oil might be your answer...it doesn't apply, or finish out like Tru-Oil, but it is available at Home Depot and most other hardware/paint stores.
 
Most gunshops will have Tru Oil made by Birchwood Casey. Walmart usually has it.


Milt
 
Emphasiski, does cabela's stock it? I wonder if their site says or if you could call out there stateline isn't that far out of town. I assume you have tried all the standbys in town white elaphant, spotsman's wharehouse, general store ect. or how about ol Ed's gun emporium they have a ton of stuff , I bet he has refinishing supplies.
Chris
 
I ended up going with tung oil. No one mentioned that, so I'm a little worried. I have one coat of it on my macassar ebony scales, and it looks amazing. So hopefully it works on other types of wood. I've read that it needs a few coats done about 12 hours apart though.

Mark (burlsource), hopefully you read this...what do you suggest as a finish on bubinga (if any at all)?
 
I was recently wondering the same thing. Was told by someone that teak oil was great for hardwoods (ironwood, rosewood, etc.). Got some at home depot for 10$ Says right on the can that its especially made for hardwoods.
I believe tung oil is better for the softer woods. Bubinga seems to be semi-hard, so tung oil should do fine. I was told that either one gives a really nice finish when several coats are applied and sanded to a fine grit and/or buffed.
I'll be trying the teak oil on some ironwood in the next week or two. Gonna finish my first knife soon, can't wait!
 
I use 0000 steel wool between coats of tung oil.It will conform to the handle and be less likely to sand completly through on the high spots.
 
If you are going to checkout Brownells like Mete suggested, I would highly recommend that you take a look at the "Old English" stock finishing kit.
 
Minwax Antique Oil Finish is much like Tru-oil, only easier to work with.
 
Emphasiski said:
I ended up going with tung oil. No one mentioned that, so I'm a little worried. I have one coat of it on my macassar ebony scales, and it looks amazing. So hopefully it works on other types of wood. I've read that it needs a few coats done about 12 hours apart though.

Mark (burlsource), hopefully you read this...what do you suggest as a finish on bubinga (if any at all)?
Click to expand...

The Tung Oil should be fine. With the bubinga you are going to see a big transformation in the look once you get past 220 grit. I would go to at least 400 grit, preferably finer. The wood has open pores so if you want them to fill in wet sand with the oil. Let it dry with the slurry on the wood and repeat a couple times. Then do a final coat and wipe with a soft rag. It's hard to mess up with this wood.
 
I'm also a big fan of the Minwax Antique Oil finish; here's a tutorial that walks you through it if you're new to finishing with oil...

LINK
 
Tung oil! Great stuff. I use waterlox transparent. It's
foolproof, builds a good finish and can be easily repaired.
A quart will last forever if you add glass marbles to the can
to keep the can full and displace oxygen.

Seriously, it's easy, inexpensive, works well, is water resistant,
and is quick. What's not to like?

Bill
 
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