Two New Sheaths

[John Cahoon]

Greetings, I'm the guy who posted "southwestern style sheaths" on the bottom of page 2 about 3 weeks ago. Those "slab" styles were rightly referred to as "old school" and I decided to update a couple of new ones to a "foldover" style (my first ever). Please tell me the proper terms for these styles. Any comments and suggestions are quite welcome. I reviewed nic681's excellent sheath making tutorial from 2010 but still have a few questions about the sewing with waxed thread though.

When planning the stitching line I used a modeling tool, straight edge and french curve, then punched with a 4 tine punch from Tandy. I first punched the front side + thin welt, then used finish nails to hold the front and back together, re-punched thru the front enough to mark the inside of the back, then final punched the back. I wasn't sure the punch would go cleanly thru 2 layers+welt in a single operation without really beating it. I still got a slight wiggle, any tips to get those punch lines dead straight? I could use a wearable pair of magnifying glasses with lights that I've been meaning to get.

My holes seem too close together when using this punch, when compared to other pieces I see here and all over the forums. What's a good average distance between holes? I can scrap the punch and drill or tap on a drill press if needed, or get a punch with wider spacing? Should I just buck up and get a groover and a wheel as well? (Trying to keep a budget)

I watched a video where the guy was using two threads and needles working from the top and bottom, while I went down from the top and then back. Would that alter the appearance?

At the ends I back stitched a couple of holes, then used a regular sewing needle with a microdrop of superglue on the thread, then trimmed tight with an exacto knife. Is that a proper method or is there a preferred way?

And finally a big thank you to all the posters and advisers willing to share their hard earned knowledge and expertise, and Merry Christmas to all.

 

[WhiteKnuckle]

First off, nice sheaths! I really like the "cave painting" pictograms.

To mark the stitching line, I use a pair of wing dividers. You need something you can "set" and keep a consistent distance from the edge. They're not that expensive and will really neaten up your stitching.

If you don't like the spacing on the stitching, you can get sets with different spacing between the tines. The one you have might be more suited to small projects like wallets or watchbands, where you want fine stitching. I would not go to a groover and overstitch wheel, personally that looks cheaper than a well done saddle stitch.

Speaking of, it sounds like you need to learn how to do a saddle stitch (the two needle method). The reason to do it this way is the saddle stitch wont unravel if you get a break in the thread.

 

[John Cahoon]

Thanks for the advice and videos Mr. Whiteknuckle (if that's your REAL name:>) ). That's going to be a big help. I was just measuring in about 1/4" from the edge at 1" interval and connecting the dots is probably my issue on that. I measured the 4 tine punch this morning and it's 8 to the inch, and I probably want six or so does that sound about right?

 

[ANovinc]

Nice looking sheaths. I too, like the designs.

 

[John Cahoon]

Hello ANovinc, thanks for that, I've been doing these type designs for a while now. I did get a wider punch, looks like around 6 per inch instead of 8 or so and it looks a lot better. I'll post a pic when the latest version is done.

 

[John Cahoon]

So I finally got a couple of new improved versions with better stitching thanks to Whiteknuckle's advice above. I did get a winged divider and it worked better, (but it's a cheap Ace version and not ideal, tends to slip no matter how I tighten the wing nut.) I got a new punch at 5 per inch as well instead of 8. The saddle stitch video was a huge help too, thanks Whiteknuckle. I forgot to photo the edges but smoothed with a belt at 120, then hand sanded up to 400 grit. The big difference there was dampening the leather and applying saddle soap before "buffing" with a wooden wheel. Not like glass like the masters here can do but pretty good.

 

[WhiteKnuckle]

Already looks like a big improvement there JWC, keep it up.

 

[John Cahoon]

Thank you sir, I shall endeavor to persevere.

 

[Horsewright]

Really like your tooling if I haven't said so before.

 

[John Cahoon]

Thank you Horsewright, coming from you I'm bursting with pride, the humble kind of course.