Type of slitting saw for cutting titanium liner-lock?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

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Aug 13, 2002
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Need to order one but there are a few options:

Screw Slotting Saws (HSS)
Jewelers Slotting Saws (HSS)
Plain Slitting Saws (HSS)
Solid Carbide Slotting Saws without keyway
Solid Carbide Jewelers Saws without keyway

Which one should I use?

Thanks
 
Patrice Lemée;13490543 said:
Need to order one but there are a few options:

Screw Slotting Saws (HSS)
Jewelers Slotting Saws (HSS)
Plain Slitting Saws (HSS)
Click to expand...

I think those are more or less the same

Jewellers, usually being thinner and finer pitch




I think Plain HSS is the most practical

Keyway, or not ? the arbour probably is not keyed
 
Sam, HSS better than Carbide?

You are right, not keyed.

I have one that is 1/16th thick. I am thinking I need thinner for cutting the lock?
 
I have not cut a liner lock but I did cut a bunch of Ti for welding rod. I used a fine pitch HSS slitting saw 1/32 thick. Set a slow rpm on the mill engaged the power feed on the x axis as slow as it would go, directed the mist coolant and let her rip. Took about 5 minutes to cut through 10" of 1/16 CP TI. had to do that about 20 times. Oh I forgot, I used a backing so the Ti did not flex. IIRC it was 1/2" alum plate. Been about 9 years.
 
Thanks Chuck. The Jeweler's saw (1/32 thick) has 110 teeth so I guess that this is the fine pitch compared to the 28 teeth of the Plain slitting saw.
Sadly no auto-feed on my mill or mist system. Gotta do both by hand if that will work. :(
 
Patrice Lemée;13490622 said:
Sam, HSS better than Carbide?

You are right, not keyed.

I have one that is 1/16th thick. I am thinking I need thinner for cutting the lock?
Click to expand...

Yes, for us HSS is better -

works fine

Cheaper, more resistant to chipping with small low rigidity tools and hand feed.
 
I use a cobalt screw slotting saw from MSC. I was advised to use that by Ray Rogers when I was looking at what to purchase- he said I'd get more life out of the teeth than with HSS. Also, they are fairly expensive and he mentioned not to let attention wander while cutting, possibly resulting in an overheated blade and loss of money/sanity. I've been very careful not to let that happen! For Ti liners I've been using an abrasive cutoff blade mounted on the drill press, which works very nicely and is a little less critical to set up and run than the slitting saw on the mill.
 
I don't have a milling machine so I'm also using the abrasive wheels. I've made a set up where I can slide my mounted rotary hand piece along at a fixed position. The abrasive wheels have worked well for me. Frank
 
Chuck, I will go with the 100 teeth then.

Salem and Frank, any particular type/size abrasive wheels?

Thanks guys. :thumbup:
 
Salem Straub said:
I use a cobalt screw slotting saw from MSC. I was advised to use that by Ray Rogers when I was looking at what to purchase- he said I'd get more life out of the teeth than with HSS.

Also, they are fairly expensive and he mentioned not to let attention wander while cutting, possibly resulting in an overheated blade and loss of money/sanity.
I've been very careful not to let that happen! For Ti liners I've been using an abrasive cutoff blade mounted on the drill press, which works very nicely and is a little less critical to set up and run than the slitting saw on the mill.
Click to expand...



I agree, but I've got to make a point here.



"cobalt" is actually a premium type of HSS high speed steel with up to 8% of the element Cobalt added

but since retailers use "cobalt" and "Kobalt" as marketing terms, and people use shortcuts in speaking and writing - it's easy to mix up cobalt, and carbide.
Just like the "titanium drillbits" you buy are actually HSS with a titanium nitride coating




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-speed_steel


M2 is molybdenum based high-speed steel in tungsten–molybdenum series. The carbides in it are small and evenly distributed. It has high wear resistance. After heat treatment, its hardness is the same as T1, but its bending strength can reach 4700 MPa, and its toughness and thermo-plasticity are higher than T1 by 50%. It is usually used to manufacture a variety of tools, such as drill bits, taps and reamers. Its decarburization sensitivity is a little bit high.[9]

M36 is similar to M2, but with 8% cobalt added. The addition of cobalt increases heat resistance. M36 is also known as HSSE or HSS-E.


M42 is a molybdenum-series high-speed steel alloy with an additional 8% cobalt. It is widely used in metal manufacturing because of its superior red-hardness as compared to more conventional high-speed steels, allowing for shorter cycle times in production environments due to higher cutting speeds or from the increase in time between tool changes. M42 is also less prone to chipping when used for interrupted cuts and costs less when compared to the same tool made of carbide. Tools made from cobalt-bearing high speed steels can often be identified by the letters HSS-Co.
Click to expand...





RPM on the slitting saw should be pretty low considering the much larger diameter and SFM compared to an endmill and the higher number of teeth.
 
I use a 3" dia. 0.030 plain tooth hss slitting saw in a vertical milling machine. I run it at 60 rpm with a spray mist coolant system. If you don't try and feed it to fast you will get good life from it and they are relatively cheap.
 
I use the regular thin ones about an inch in diameter made by Dremel. Others I've tried have been junk. Frank
 
Thanks Paul, I ordered a plain one too like you suggested to see how they stack up to the jeweller one.

Thanks also for the abrasive disk info guys. Having the mill I would really like to use it to do this but if it doesn't work like I want it to, I'll give the abrasive disk a try.
 
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