Ugly girl needs help

S

st1100jack

Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Messages
33
Busse Public Defender.

It was in pretty nice shape when I got it, but I decided that the heavy black blade coating hid too much of the beautiful lines of this knife, with the multiple bevels and all.

So I decided to strip it. The results are what you see, after two different varieties of Kleen Strip. I haven't been able to find anything else that I think might work, so I come here for advice.

Anybody have any?

Also, I don't think these were Infi, were they? SR101?

Thanks in advance.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NBev4E2xFyc8deZ68

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RskAv6pN3sGcR5fj7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vgaKS5bKmWFABv7b8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jAmicfjn2T3dKDS39
 
Citristrip for several hours and a pressure washer on hot always worked well for me. Coating peals right off! :):thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Ok, I'll go at it again when I can. Thanks for the advice.

And I'm glad it's infi of course. The guy I traded it off was convinced it wasn't.
 
Can you get Circa 1850 in the US? Comes in spray (what I usually use) or in can of gel. It's my go to, works in minutes. Use it outside though! I did have one Busse that straight up refused to be affected by it though. My OG TG sat in a bucket of the stuff for two days and didn't even soften the coating. I still had to remove it with a Scotchbrite wheel. Ended up leaving it on in the fuller and the tang.

IMG_1243.JPG

image.jpg
 
Best Thread title.....ever.

:p

I use a pretty hardcore gel stripper that's made to strip 4 layers of paint off of furniture, doors, trim, etc.

The key thing is to maintain a moist coating for 6 or 7 minutes, minimum. If it starts looking dry...brush more stripper on. If it dries, it makes a layer of coating that's tougher to remove.

Just a note: using a bit of masking tape to isolate G10, Resiprene C, etc. is a good precaution. Handle materials are pretty resilient, but, you don't want to risk melting.

I use a thin, narrow Stainless spatula to remove most of the coating outface on the first attempt. As long as the edge of your "scraper" is smooth (no rough or toothy edge), you run very little chance of scratching your blade.

I usually wipe things down with Acetone to get everything off...sometimes in combination with a Scotchbrite pad to even out the surface. WEAR GLOVES and EYE PROTECTION.



:thumbsup:
 
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I’ve had 100% success with Citristrip by wrapping the blade in tinfoil after liberally coating, then leaving in a warm, dry area (like top of fridge, or your dwelling’s heating source). After 24-36 hrs, I have been able to wipe coatings off with a tissue; no abrasives required.

Would enjoy hearing about and seeing your final product.

Cheers
 
I use citristrip, wrap in a black plastic bag, leave it out in the afternoon sun to bake.
 
I wonder if that remaining black stuff is not coating residue, but the decarb layer? IIRC decarb was worse on early INFI. Scotch Brite is your friend.
 
st1100jack said:
Busse Public Defender.

It was in pretty nice shape when I got it, but I decided that the heavy black blade coating hid too much of the beautiful lines of this knife, with the multiple bevels and all.

So I decided to strip it. The results are what you see, after two different varieties of Kleen Strip. I haven't been able to find anything else that I think might work, so I come here for advice.

Anybody have any?

Also, I don't think these were Infi, were they? SR101?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I've used this before, it's made by Klean Strip, so not sure if that's what you meant instead of Kleen Strip, but this has always worked for me. DON'T get it on your hands. I wore dishwashing gloves the first time I used it and I could still feel it burning my hands through those after about five minutes. If you think you will get it on your hands then get heavy duty rubber gloves.

I stripped an HOGFSH and it didn't take more than 15 minutes or so, cleaned that mother right down to bare INFI and no scrubbing required. Got it on the macarta scales and it had no effect on those. I've used it to strip paint off the tins on my Harley before I took them to be powder coated and it started worked on that within five minutes or so.

If this sh!t doesn't take it off, it ain't coming off...

Winston
 
Winston_Smith said:
I've used this before, it's made by Klean Strip, so not sure if that's what you meant instead of Kleen Strip, but this has always worked for me. DON'T get it on your hands. I wore dishwashing gloves the first time I used it and I could still feel it burning my hands through those after about five minutes. If you think you will get it on your hands then get heavy duty rubber gloves.

I stripped an HOGFSH and it didn't take more than 15 minutes or so, cleaned that mother right down to bare INFI and no scrubbing required. Got it on the macarta scales and it had no effect on those. I've used it to strip paint off the tins on my Harley before I took them to be powder coated and it started worked on that within five minutes or so.

If this sh!t doesn't take it off, it ain't coming off...

Winston
Click to expand...

Beware of getting this stuff on linoleum also. It'll eat right the hell through a linoleum sink or bathtub in minutes.

I had to replace my garage bathrooms sink after a stripping session.
 
resinguy said:
I wonder if that remaining black stuff is not coating residue, but the decarb layer? IIRC decarb was worse on early INFI. Scotch Brite is your friend.
Click to expand...

I think Resinguy is right. That looks like super gnarly decarb on the blade. Scotch Brite pads or wheels should clean her right up!
 
My old SteelHeaetErgo had a mess of decarb on it. It's a bit prettier now.

These guys are right about scotch Brite. Attach one to a power drill and use the spinning edge to buff it right up. IMG_20171020_180311672_2.jpg
 
This was stripped and glass beaded and I still could not get it clean . Lots of scotch brite after that to get it this far .
There is an industrial coating can not remember the name of it but military uses . I think some of these blades might have it on before powder coat.
QSdXwsj.jpg
 
If you have a bench grinder, get the ScotchBrite fine wheel for your grinder. Using a bench grinder allows you to HOLD ON to your knife with two hands for better control. Using one hand on the knife while holding a drill in the other sounds like a guaranteed trip to the minor med. Don't ask how I found that out. Sharp pointy things and an 81 mg aspirin don't mix well when the knife kicks back on you.

Good looking knife, if you get tired of it let me know!
 
We don't have a bench grinder, so I chuck the SB wheel into a old power drill, clamp that in a vise, and use the trigger button to lock in a speed. Then I hold the knife with cut resistant gloves. Kludgy but effective. Leaves a decent ghetto satin/comp finish.
 
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To get every last little bit of decarb out of every little dimple, bead blasting is the way to go.
 
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