Ulu sheath

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May 29, 2016
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I just got into leather craft recently and made this sheath for my Alaskan ulu. I'd made a few sheaths for my tomahawks and this was my first try at the ulu. I saw someone's video with a similar sheath style, so I based mine off that. Though if I was just winging it I probably would've made it very similar to this, as there aren't really a lot of ways you can make that awkward curved blade slide in and out of a sheath and be held in place securely.

I've been experimenting with tooling and I'm getting better. Looks good from arms length, but obviously close up you can see flaws. Just a single snap closure and it's stitched with two cap rivets on the corners. Used mink oil and Tankote which gives the dark brown dye a lighter, more distressed look. No belt loop or clasps or anything, and the back side was left untooled.

For those of you who don't know much about the ulu knife it is actually a really cool and useful cutting tool. It's been used by the Inuit people for centuries for food prep among other things. Today it is often found in kitchens as it makes a great slicer and dicer of vegetables and just about anything else. It works as a skiving tool as well, and I actually used it to make it's own sheath when I skived the tapered portion of the welt. I've also skinned a javelina with it and used it to flesh animals prior to fur tanning. The ulu itself is cheap, $20 on Amazon, but it's just an awesome and unique knife that everyone should have imo.

Any comments or feedback, good or bad, are welcome. Like I said I just started leather craft so I know there is a lot of room for improvement in my work. :thumbup:
 
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I've got a few ulus. Very confortable for food prep. You can push cut with little effort because all the force can go from your forearm to your wrist to your palm, in a straight line. Mincing is even easier, just rock the curved edge back and forth over the veggies. You can get a wooden bowl for this. Some ulus come with the bowl.

In the old Inuit style, skinning and cleaning the pelt was a critical activity. I almost believe the ulu was originally designed for this.
 
Yep, and it's also chisel ground, which is specifically designed for cutting sideways against a flat surface, like a pelt.
 
Are there pics? A similar knife except with a perpendicular handle has been used in leatherwork for centuries too. This is a leather Roundknife or sometimes called a Headknife.

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A good one will slice through heavy saddle leather in one pass.
 
Sorry, had some issues with pictures not showing. Should be fixed now.
 
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I can see your photos. And it looks good to me. Basketweaves are actually one of the tooling patterns that are finicky and can get out of sorts real fast. Yours looks real good.

I like the addition of the double cap rivets at the corners. Nice and sturdy looking.

You say you're pretty new to this, but it certainky looks a lot better than some of my early stuff. Cheers!

-Eric
Overmountain Knife and Tool
Overmountain.us.com
 
I can see your photos. And it looks good to me. Basketweaves are actually one of the tooling patterns that are finicky and can get out of sorts real fast. Yours looks real good.

I like the addition of the double cap rivets at the corners. Nice and sturdy looking.

You say you're pretty new to this, but it certainky looks a lot better than some of my early stuff. Cheers!

-Eric
Overmountain Knife and Tool
Overmountain.us.com
Thanks. I find it hard to be able to see and line up the tiny stamping tool in a precise way, and often can't see well due to the shadow my hand casts over the working area. So the impressions come out wonky and I have to go back with a stylus and do my best to blend the lines back together to make them look straighter and connected. Once it's dyed and oiled and everything those flaws are much less noticeable. I also have a background in art, so I learned long ago that any mistakes or flaws can be compensated for by the completeness of your work. Instead of just giving up and not bothering to try to fix mistakes, I do my best to make them look as good as possible and finish the whole project to the best of my ability as though it were a professional job. That way I can take something that is mediocre and make it look like a halfway decent end product.
 
You need good lighting. Something that is bright, close to your work area and adjustable.

Ugly ass knife, but the sheath is very well done. Not sure if the rivets are necessary.

If you want to see some nice ulus, look up the work of Mark Knapp here on BFC, just superb!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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