Understanding Wood. A knife makers guide.

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Hey guys. I wanted to write a few more wood articles since I just finished reading the rather dense "Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology" and thought I could focus it in for knifemakers. I see a lot of misunderstanding and extrapolation that I dont think is accurate. As always, I will write the first version of this article for the forum, and then incorporate it into my websites info section and that article will be updated and added to. So

Wood. The first thing is that we have to understand what wood is. In some ways, its a simple answer. Its cellulose. But that hides the the bigger picture. Lets start with something knife makers care a lot about.

Strength. What makes one wood stronger than another? The thing to know is that all wood is made of the two same compounds, cellulose and lignin. The best way to think about wood is as bundles of straws glues together. The straws are cellulose and the glue is lignin. You cant get stronger straws or stronger glue, its all the same. So how do you make it stronger?

There are 3 main ways.
The first thing you can do is add more glue. Slather the straws in glue, fill every gap with it and fill in the straw interior with it. I will touch on the difference between heartwood and sapwood later, but this is the main difference in strength between heartwood and sapwood. A wood like this is something like paduak. The grain of paduak is not very different from something like maple, but the wood is good bit stronger and heavier because there is so much additional lignin.

The other two revolve around the cellulose, or in this case the straws. For one, you can make the walls of the straws thicker. This is what separates something like Oak from say, Alder. Oak has a very coarse, dry grain, but is still very strong. Each of the straws in this case are very thick, so the wood as a whole is stronger.

The other option is to make the whole straw smaller. Think about it as a box of coffee straws vs a box of drinking straws. The tiny coffee straws have more total plastic because each is smaller and they pack together better. This is the best for knife makers "Combined with the other factors" that yields the tough, durable and fine finishing hardwood we love, woods like rosewood and desert ironwood come from. By shrinking pore size you can get a fine finish. You cant tell the difference very well between oak at say, 220, 500 and 1000 grit finish, but the same sanding is easily distinguished in fine grained wood like ironwood.

Next is strength based on grain
Wood is what is known as an anisotropic material. That is to say the strength of wood is dependent on the direction of the force applied. For insane, its not very hard to crush wood with the grain. That is to say from the side. But if you apply force down to the end grain of wood it is INCREDIBLY strong. Think about how a tree is strong. It supports vertical weight "The weight of itself" and does not require very much horizontal strength past the ability to resist wind.

It's well known that end grain is inherently weaker than face or side grain. But why? Think back to the straws glues together. If you have a 1 foot cube of straws, you have 4 faces that are identical. These are the 4 faces that show sides of the straws. You have two faces that show the ends. This is the same as a cube of wood. If you wanted to support weight with your straw block, how would you orientate it? You would have the "grain" running up and down! Because end grain is very strong in compression. But, what if we took a 1 inch thick slice of end grain. Now we have a sheet 1 inch thick and 1 foot square with the two large faces showing end grain. This piece could be easily snapped in half in your hands! End grain has very little strength against what is known as a bending moment, or simply being bent. Why is it so much weaker in this direction? Think about the straws. Each straw is glued to the one next to it by a short 1 inch long strip of glue! Because the grain of wood is only connected to other grains along the long axis and NOT across end grain, it has no resistant to bending but extreme resistant to compression like for a wooden mallet or and end grain cutting board.

How does this help a knife maker? Well it tells you how to pick your grain, but also how to use end grain if you do use it. What you need to do is make sure the wood experiences NO bending. THe best way to do this is to make sure the wood is dead flat before it is glued to the handle. Any gap will allow the wood to bend and large cracks to occur.

I have to finish packing up, im going back to school in the morning. Next up I will talk about figure, what causes it, how to cut wood to maximize figure, and how to predict what trees will have figure.

And as always, post ANY wood related questions below and I will answer what I can!
 
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Amazing article Ben thank you. I have a question. I've read a few times where knife makers have taken an unstabilized wood like maple or koa. And as they're sanding it they slather ca glue on it and it fills pores. Would this be a way to make the wood stronger?
 
Amazing article Ben thank you. I have a question. I've read a few times where knife makers have taken an unstabilized wood like maple or koa. And as they're sanding it they slather ca glue on it and it fills pores. Would this be a way to make the wood stronger?

Here is another of those mistakes that has a grounding in reality. The force that draws a fluid into the pores of a wood is known as capillary action. Different fluids have different degrees of capillary action, there are two factors that increase a fluids capillary action. The thinness of a fluid, and the strength of the intermolecular forces. Intermolecular forces in this case refers to how much the molecules of a liquid stick to each other like in surface tension.

Think of water. Water is really an amazing liquid from a chemical perspective. Its pretty thin "though it is more viscous than something like acetone or ethanol" but it has an amazingly high amount of intermolecure forces due to what is known as hydrogen bonding. Long story short, the molecules of water REALLY like to stick together. Thats why if you dip the corner of a paper towel into water it shoots up beyond the level of the water, or why you can balance so much water on a penny as it pools together.

Super glue lacks both of these characteristics. It does not have particularly strong cohesion "That is to say, the molecules dont really stick to each other very well" and it is relatively thick. And even if it could flow up the narrow pores of a wood, it would cure instantly! Such a tiny surface area would cure and form a plug instantly.

Super glue can be used as a finish, though it will wear away as it is not very photo resistant. But it will not strength wood.

I think a lot of these myths, like minwax wood hardener, superglue hardening are just people who dont want to admit getting wood stabilized well is expensive.
 
Here is another of those mistakes that has a grounding in reality. The force that draws a fluid into the pores of a wood is known as capillary action. Different fluids have different degrees of capillary action, there are two factors that increase a fluids capillary action. The thinness of a fluid, and the strength of the intermolecular forces. Intermolecular forces in this case refers to how much the molecules of a liquid stick to each other like in surface tension.

Think of water. Water is really an amazing liquid from a chemical perspective. Its pretty thin "though it is more viscous than something like acetone or ethanol" but it has an amazingly high amount of intermolecure forces due to what is known as hydrogen bonding. Long story short, the molecules of water REALLY like to stick together. Thats why if you dip the corner of a paper towel into water it shoots up beyond the level of the water, or why you can balance so much water on a penny as it pools together.

Super glue lacks both of these characteristics. It does not have particularly strong cohesion "That is to say, the molecules dont really stick to each other very well" and it is relatively thick. And even if it could flow up the narrow pores of a wood, it would cure instantly! Such a tiny surface area would cure and form a plug instantly.

Super glue can be used as a finish, though it will wear away as it is not very photo resistant. But it will not strength wood.

I think a lot of these myths, like minwax wood hardener, superglue hardening are just people who dont want to admit getting wood stabilized well is expensive.

That makes alot of sense actually. You have a very vast amount of knowledge on this for a young guy. Tip my hat to ya. Guess I'll just send off the couple of blocks I have to K&G
 
That makes alot of sense actually. You have a very vast amount of knowledge on this for a young guy. Tip my hat to ya. Guess I'll just send off the couple of blocks I have to K&G

If you want, I do a lot of large batches so I get the best pricing option. If you want, you can send me your blocks and I can include them in the next batch and send them to you when I get it back
 
Part two. Figure

Understanding wood Figure:


As knife makers, the figure of wood is an important consideration. Plain wood has very little value compared to the beautiful curls of Koa or maple. But how does this figure come about? And how can you maximize its appearance?


To understand this, you must first understand what wood figure is.


Simply put, wood figure is an outcome of the fact that wood end grain reflects light differently that wood face grain, and by varying the angle of the grain with the surface, a variety of effects can be observed.


First, let us consider a tree. While before I used the analogy of straws, no think of a tree as a series of tubes, one inside the other. This makes sense, as the cross section of a tree shows these rings, evidence of the tubes added year after year to the tree. In a tree with perfectly straight grain, each tube fits inside the other, its walls straight up and down yielding perfectly straight grain.


U4tCZlG.jpg



This image shows a quartersawn piece of curly wood. As you can see, the rings are not straight up and down, but rather unjulate back and forth in waves. This is where curl comes from. TO imagine what is causing this, think of the tubes making up a tree. Where before they were straight up and down, now each tube is wavy, each fitting against the next, interlocking their waves. Look at the none curly edge grain of a block of curly wood. You should noice squiggly lines of grain running the length of the block.


When this wood is cut perpendicular to the waves and planed, a surface like this is seen.
Dcgcp3P.jpg



As you can see, the angle of the grain meeting the surface varies in a repeating pattern. And because the end grain reflects light differently than face grain, a pattern emerges. Across the surface of the block, light shines unevenly and thus gives yield to a curly figure.


Burls:


Burls are special to knife makers. We love them more than any other craftsmen. And their beauty is palpable. But what is a burl? How do you maximize its beauty?


Well, there are two main types of burl. Grain burls and eye burls. Grain burls will often look like a brain, randomly formed grain with a smooth to slightly knobbly surface. These burls will lack the dramtic eyes that are loved. These burls tend to form around dead wood or at an injury as the tree attempts to grow over a wound.


The much more valued burls are eye burl. Their surface will often look covered in pins

JmSTxwa.jpg



This burl cap shows the tell tale pins of an eye burl. These burls are caused mainly by a bacterial infection. This bacteria creates a hormone that in trees induces budding. This hormone buildup causes the tree to form many small buds that due back and become encased in more buds. They tend to form from a single point. And emanate outward.


You can think of them as half of a sphere. The center of the flat side of sphere is the site of the infection, with many tubes radiating out from this point. If you were to cut a surface parallel to the flat of semi sphere, you would be rewarded with a surface full of eyes, as you would intersect the tubes of the burl. If you were to cut perpendicular to the flat of the burl, you would see a figure reminist of curly grain, as you slice the tubes of the buds in half along their width.


OpjGe1B.jpg



This image should explain it.
 
Thank you for doing this write up, Ben. Do we know what particular bacteria starts the formation of a burl? If we did, what are your thoughts on the ethics surrounding artificially stimulating burl growth by exposing a tree to the bacteria on purpose? I am looking in my back yard and I see hundreds of test candidates :p
-Tanner
 
Thank you for doing this write up, Ben. Do we know what particular bacteria starts the formation of a burl? If we did, what are your thoughts on the ethics surrounding artificially stimulating burl growth by exposing a tree to the bacteria on purpose? I am looking in my back yard and I see hundreds of test candidates :p
-Tanner

I actually do know it... Agrobacterium tumefaciens. It is actually the bacteria that produces plant effecting plasmids, the tool used to is used to create all genetically modified plants!
 
Great write up! Concise and helpful, thank you for taking the time to do this. Saw a nice little plug for you from Nick Wheeler on Instagram the other day, btw.
 
This is excellent information Ben, and well written. Not only is the information interesting and useful to me, but it also allows me to be able to pass that on to those who view my knives. I get a lot of questions about “what is that handle made of” and “how did you make the wood look like that” and such. I find a lot of people don’t have a clue what a Burl is until I tell them it’s basically a tree tumour haha.
 
This is excellent information Ben, and well written. Not only is the information interesting and useful to me, but it also allows me to be able to pass that on to those who view my knives. I get a lot of questions about “what is that handle made of” and “how did you make the wood look like that” and such. I find a lot of people don’t have a clue what a Burl is until I tell them it’s basically a tree tumour haha.

In most ways it really is a tumor! It is tree cells that dont die when they are supposed to and keep producing more and more growth hormone while directing nutrients too them. The only reason they arent a real danger to trees is their is no way for them to metastasize
 
Hey Guys, what do you want to see next? I have started writing out

Let me know which of these interests you.

Spalting, What is it, how to explain it

Exotics, what makes them different?

Finishing, how to maximize woods beauty

Marketing wood, How to explain woods beauty and benefits to customers
 
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