Using Beeswax..

A

andrew_cc

Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
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Hey all, Im afraid I need your help again, cant seem to find the answer to this..


So I'm finishing off some wood scales (cherry) after soaking in linseed oil with beeswax, (I'm trying the techniques of scraps of wood first). Im using commercially bought besswax/turpentine mix. The instructions read, ''work a small amount into the wood, then polish with a clean cloth...'' and all other internet sources seem to say the same or words to that effect

The thing is, the wood looks exactly the same as when I started! How on earth do you guys get those lovely shiny finishes using beeswax?


Thanks in advance for any help on this one.


Andrew
 
My guess is that after applying several coats, drying and wiping off, they are taking it to a buffer and buffing with a soft wheel. That brings the shine up quite a bit, and shows the grain nicely. Good luck,

Dave
 
You reckon one of those soft polishing wheels that come with a dremel drill will do the job?
 
I use a combination of "about" 1/2 bee's wax, and 1/2 neatsfoot oil.

I heat these two together slowly, while mixing throughly. Let cool. It should be the consistancy of shoe polish.

Reheat a smaller amount (I use a pound or more of Bee's was to start with!) using an old pan you can leave it in when cooled, and paint it on hot with an old smallish paint brush.

This, as conveyed to me almost 25 years ago, is "cavalryman's dressing". My former father in law was in the U.S. Army in 1940 stationed in Chicago (area) and was in the Cav. He said they used this mixture constantly.

Once painted on leather, you have a good sum of it that hardens before soaking in. Just pass it high over a flame or electric burner and it will soak right in. Its a super protector/water proofing for leather not to mention it just looks great. As for wood, I paint it on then buff off; no passing it over heat.

As for polishing... white rouge only, and a buff dedicated to wood/horn etc. only.

Others here may do something else but theres a start for you.

m
 
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I do a Beeswax/Tung oil combination. I put on as many coats of tung oil as needed, let it cure for a few days, then dip the whole works into some melted beeswax. Let the beeswax harden, wipe off the excess and repeat. I don't have a powered buffing setup so I just go at he handle with a piece of lint free denim after the last dipping and excess removal.

So far this has worked fairly well for me, I don't get a high luster finish, but I do get a nice easy to maintain satin finish on my handles. Lint free is important, because when I don't get rid of the lint the handle take on a blue tinge:o
 
unky_gumbi said:
I do a Beeswax/Tung oil combination. I put on as many coats of tung oil as needed, let it cure for a few days, then dip the whole works into some melted beeswax. Let the beeswax harden, wipe off the excess and repeat. I don't have a powered buffing setup so I just go at he handle with a piece of lint free denim after the last dipping and excess removal.
Click to expand...

So, just to recap, you actually dip the handle in pure melted beeswax, wipe excess off, then buff?

So after my linseed oil soak I can do that? its the first time Ive heard of using pure beeswax as opposed to turpentine mix...
 
I do something similar with beeswax and mineral oil. I melt the beeswax and add mineral oil to it. When cooled it makes a great safe nontoxic finish for wooden toys for young children. I've never worried about buffing up a gloss for this type of application, but now that you've mentioned it, I'll probably give it a try next time just for grins.

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Koa, silver oak and Cuban mahogany
 
I'm using the same combo as anvilring, just be sure that the "neatsfoot oil" is not "neatsfoot oil compound". I heat it in a crock pot (WalMart $30 special) then dip the sheath. You can only hold it in for a few seconds or you will burn the leather.
Harry Mathews (twinxblades) told me how to do it.
 
andrew_cc said:
So, just to recap, you actually dip the handle in pure melted beeswax, wipe excess off, then buff?

So after my linseed oil soak I can do that? its the first time Ive heard of using pure beeswax as opposed to turpentine mix...
Click to expand...

Its the way I do it, not saying it is right. I had mixed some tung oil and beeswax together, but the tung oil wouldn't cure properly, so I started doing it separate.

The only reason I use the beeswax is because I want a bit of sheen and I don't get it with tung oil alone
 
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