Using gun bluing fluid on O1 or other Patina forcing options

D

Derek15555

Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
21
Using O1 steel and really like working it. But its very succeptable to rusting and I'd like to know more options to force a more uniform and longer lasting patina. Have tried vinegar baths and letting it oxegenate as well as soaking in water and letting it get all rusted then really cleaning it. All of these sort of work but aren't best. I was wondering if using a gun bluing fluid would work or if there are any other options im not aware of.

For reference, here is the first O1 knife with a 2 year patina:
tGw5gpF.jpg


And is a newer design with no patina:
10624606_579722498838435_6772351487734465007_n.jpg
 
My concern would be using something that is food safe if it's a kitchen knife. Not sure if it's a valid concern or not.
 
Lo/Rez said:
My concern would be using something that is food safe if it's a kitchen knife. Not sure if it's a valid concern or not.
Click to expand...

Yes food safe is important. This is one of the reasons i'm asking about bluing in particular.
 
There are different kinds of gun bluing-hot, cold, and rust bluing.
Of the 3, cold bluing (in a bottle) is useless. It provides no rust protection, stinks, and wears rapidly.
Hot bluing requires much equipment and is dangerous and expensive to do. It has better, but still very bad, wear characteristics.
Rust bluing is the most durable (still not good), and it takes time to do it-but it is easily done at home.
IMO- no bluing is a good blade coating.
Ionbond nitride coating holds up much better, but it is expensive.
 
I have a few production knives from TOPs, EESE and Ontario that have what seems to be some type of rhino coating. Anyone know what that is? It's not quite as rough as actual rhino liner but it seems to hold up better than paint or something similar.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
There are different kinds of gun bluing-hot, cold, and rust bluing.
Of the 3, cold bluing (in a bottle) is useless. It provides no rust protection, stinks, and wears rapidly.
Hot bluing requires much equipment and is dangerous and expensive to do. It has better, but still very bad, wear characteristics.
Rust bluing is the most durable (still not good), and it takes time to do it-but it is easily done at home.
IMO- no bluing is a good blade coating.
Ionbond nitride coating holds up much better, but it is expensive.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for this insight. I'll look into Ionbond nitride coating. Appreciate the help!
 
Try Cerakote. It is very thin, baked at temps low enough that it should not effect your temper, and is very durable.
 
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