Using router in handle making

M

Mike Artigue

Joined
May 1, 2020
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3
As a newbie, I have learned much from this community. I come from a 40 year woodworking background. Something I have been wondering about, but has seen no discussion on, is why aren't router used to at least begin the round over process in handle shaping. Once scales are glued and sanded to the metal profile, it seems it would save time and gain uniformity if a router with various sized round over bits were used. Since I haven't seen anything about this, I assume there is some obvious reason it is not being done. If any of you have any thoughts on this, I would be very interested to hear them.
 
I think you could do it but I think thin handle scales would make me worry that I might be hitting my tang with my expensive router bit on full tang knives. Hidden tangs would alleviate that problem probably.

To be truthful I have always wondered if some kind of jig is used to make both scales uniform.
 
There are makers that use a router for this
LT Wright for one. Do a you tube search on LT Wright knife making. I'm too fond of my fingers to to even try this method. It scares the bejesus out of me seeing it. A relatively small sharp object being pressed against an even smaller sharp very fast spinning object with the bare hands......
 
I just bought some small roundover router bits for that exact reason and have been looking forward to trying them out. I have zero woodworking experience so learning the router table will be fun. Hopefully, I'll come out on the other side with all my finger tips.
 
IronRidgeOutdoors said:
I just bought some small roundover router bits for that exact reason and have been looking forward to trying them out. I have zero woodworking experience so learning the router table will be fun. Hopefully, I'll come out on the other side with all my finger tips.
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Okay you are scaring me. Statistically the router is the most dangerous tool in the workshop in terms of number of injuries. Working something as small as a knife handle on a router table seems like a recipe for disaster. I would suggest using a bit with a guide bearing instead used on a router in hand.
 
Triton said:
Okay you are scaring me. Statistically the router is the most dangerous tool in the workshop in terms of number of injuries. Working something as small as a knife handle on a router table seems like a recipe for disaster. I would suggest using a bit with a guide bearing instead used on a router in hand.
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I got bits with guide bearings. Setting up a jig to hold the knife and have the router in hand may be what I end up doing.
 
When it comes to making handles, "saving time" is not really a priority, at least not for me. Personally, getting it right the first time, not ruining the material, not having to start over, and not having to pay for more handle material, are much higher priorities.

I prefer "slow and steady" over getting the job done fast. Often, tryin to get a task done fast only results in more work, and the task taking several times longer to finish than if it had been done slowly in the first place. Or in other words- haste makes waste.
 
Mike Artigue said:
As a newbie, I have learned much from this community. I come from a 40 year woodworking background. Something I have been wondering about, but has seen no discussion on, is why aren't router used to at least begin the round over process in handle shaping. Once scales are glued and sanded to the metal profile, it seems it would save time and gain uniformity if a router with various sized round over bits were used. Since I haven't seen anything about this, I assume there is some obvious reason it is not being done. If any of you have any thoughts on this, I would be very interested to hear them.
Click to expand...
The potential risk is way to high in my opinion. A knife handle isn't very big. That means my fingers have to be way to close, to that spinning router bit. One slip and it is bye bye finger/s. Or maybe the grain doesn't cooperate, and the router jerks the knife out of your hand, and turns it into a missile. The problem is it only takes one slip, to mess one up for life. So even if the chances of slipping are relatively low, the risk is high. And I think, trying to route something that small with a steel core, and a sharp blade hanging out one end, to be pretty high risk.

A couple good rasps and some sandpaper can shape a knife handle fairly quickly. A belt sander can speed that up even more.
O.B.
 
IronRidgeOutdoors said:
I just bought some small roundover router bits for that exact reason and have been looking forward to trying them out. I have zero woodworking experience so learning the router table will be fun. Hopefully, I'll come out on the other side with all my finger tips.
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Last I knew finger tip did not grow back. So I say have fun learning to use your router/router table. But maybe learn on something bigger than a knife handle.

O.B.
 
Rounding over a square or rectangular piece of material has only a small chance of producing a round or oval cross section, much more likely a square with rounded corners. Cut a blank out of scrap wood and make sure the result meets your expectations for feel.

One way to make the operation safer is to shape before severing. Imagine your handle shape bandsawed out of a 4x6 the tall way, then both edges shaped on a router table, then a 5/16 or 3/8 strip ripped off each side on the table saw to make your scales. The extra in the center gives you more gripping surface and keeps your fingers farther from the bit.

Parker
 
Sharp bits, roller guide bearings. Good table that's supportive without hangups.
Push sticks, and blocks......tape the blade.


Lots of people do it. For both profile, and rounding.
 
Just the talk of how to set it up and do it properly/safely is probably the reason it’s not a common tool used. It’s much faster to use the grinder and a course belt you already have setup to rough shape the handle in, then a few simple belt changes after that before finishing by hand.
 
If you have the tools, skill and experience, I'd say go for it.

In my book, the only thing that really matters is the final product.

The few knives that I have made were roughed out with power tools not intended for knife making, mostly a welder's angle grinder and a chevy wheel grinder. . . .and a drill press. The finish work was all done with hand tools and a lot of elbow grease. Rounding over the blade back and handle was done with strips of belt sander grit used like a shoe-shine rag. Made a nice elliptical curve.

But, by all means, do what you casn do with the tools you have.
 
Triton said:
I think you could do it but I think thin handle scales would make me worry that I might be hitting my tang with my expensive router bit on full tang knives. Hidden tangs would alleviate that problem probably.

To be truthful I have always wondered if some kind of jig is used to make both scales uniform.
Click to expand...
I'm planning to give it a try on something sacrificial to see if my theory works or not. I'm hoping my 40 years of woodworking (and routers) will give me an edge. Tangs are the main concern but I'm thinking the roller guide on the top of the router, placed just right, will work. You'll notice there are a whole lot of "if's" my theory.... I'll post the outcome when I do it.
 
VorpelSword said:
If you have the tools, skill and experience, I'd say go for it.

In my book, the only thing that really matters is the final product.

The few knives that I have made were roughed out with power tools not intended for knife making, mostly a welder's angle grinder and a chevy wheel grinder. . . .and a drill press. The finish work was all done with hand tools and a lot of elbow grease. Rounding over the blade back and handle was done with strips of belt sander grit used like a shoe-shine rag. Made a nice elliptical curve.

But, by all means, do what you casn do with the tools you have.
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Thanks for the thoughts. Even if I just get the majority off of the material off, it will be uniform removal and hopefully save time and give a better end result. My thinking is that it doesn't matter how you remove what you don't want there, just do it the best way that you can. As a cautionary tale, most of my failures began with massive enthusiasm. But I learned from each
 
Mike Artigue said:
I'm planning to give it a try on something sacrificial to see if my theory works or not. I'm hoping my 40 years of woodworking (and routers) will give me an edge. Tangs are the main concern but I'm thinking the roller guide on the top of the router, placed just right, will work. You'll notice there are a whole lot of "if's" my theory.... I'll post the outcome when I do it.
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Very cool. Good luck, be safe and do report back if you would...
 
I also gave this a thought and realised it wouldnt work on my handles. I usually taper the scales towards front and/or back.
It would make sense if you are batching a set and your scales are parallel and you want them to be equally rounded over all around. Also works with rectangular designs and straight lines, but that looks either unfinished or like CNC to me.

If you put temporary pins, profile the scales to knife, and use stable materials, you could do the scales off the knife (seems safer and easier to me).
 
Short answer - it will only do part of the task (perhaps dangerously) and you will still end up having to sand and shape the handle on the grinder or by hand.
 
Ok, the 5AM coffee just kicked in.

On using a router: It may be that a pass or two to round the top will work to remove some material and begin the shaping process, but I agree with those who point out that a handle is often a complex 3D shape. Patient hand work will need to be done at the end.

BUT: I do have an idea or two that can only be done with a router. A hidden tang handle is a natural for using a router to precision machine the tang's channel.

Another idea: When making a hidden tang handle, start with two pretty thick scales. Then make a series of parallel cuts that run from side to side (not the length of the handle). Choose a bit and spacing to match the scale of the handle, maybe 1/8 inch. Choose either a straight bit for the first try, but a dovetail is what is in my head. Get the two scale pieces cut so they will fit together with the cuts meshed. Take them apart again; go back and use the router to cut the tang channel. Assemble the scales together (use glue/epoxy now), then slide it over the tang. Finish it up however you would have with just two plane scales.

The inner-eye head visual I have is a hidden tang handle with this visually interesting pattern of finger joints or dovetail keys on the back of the handle. It should leave someone with the thought, "Wonder how he did that"?
 
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Having been a woodworker all my life I get the interest in doing this. But, I would not be willing to risk a $50 plus set of scales/handle for it.
Can it be done, yes. Should it? Apart from the cost of the wood, the safety issues are not worth the risk, for me.
 
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