Using silicon under an anvil (paging Nick W!)

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
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Or anybody else that could help of course. I just saw a post where Nick talked about this.

Do you put a layer of silicon and just flop the anvil on there or do you wait for the silicon to harden. It seems that if it is not dry it will just ooze out under the weight.

Thanks.

Patrice
 
Patrice Lemée;6804801 said:
Or anybody else that could help of course. I just saw a post where Nick talked about this.

Do you put a layer of silicon and just flop the anvil on there or do you wait for the silicon to harden. It seems that if it is not dry it will just ooze out under the weight.

Thanks.

Patrice
Click to expand...

I have wondered this my self as well. but i think you glue the anvil down with the silicon. i an having problems with my anvil walking around the floor when i hammer on it and it weighs over 300 pounds. it is a post anvil so i don't know how to stop mine, maybe glue a rubber pad to the bottom to absorb some of the shock of the steel to concrete.
 
Hey guys just my .02 worth but I wouldnt use silicone as it will rust out and corrode iron. In it's place use polyureathane window sealant.

Jason
 
How do you figure silicone with oxidize iron? Silicone is almost entirely non-reactive, to my knowledge.
 
I am not Nick Wheeler, but I did stay at a Holiday inn last night :D .

Lay down a layer and let it dry until it is just a bit tacky, then plop the anvil down nice and easy.
 
Not sure if I did it right, but I put down the silicone and set the anvil on top of it and then let it dry. It worked like a charm to dampen the ring.

--nathan
 
silver_pilate said:
It worked like a charm to dampen the ring.

--nathan
Click to expand...



:thumbdn:man oh man, deadening the ring:eek:....thats like duck taping a babies mouth shut while speaking it's first words:p.....beautiful sound to me......providing it's a decent anvil;)


good idead though, i always just used stumps or logs to mount my stuff to in the shop.

my forge shop use to have a nice round section of log that i drove railroad spikes into and it held it good, and leg vice was mounted on a huge log, that was about 3' tall...or whatever but it was nice cause it was big enough to use the rest of the top as a work table.

i also know a farrier that took horse shoes and forged points on the ends, than drove them over the feet of the anvil.....kept very secure, though that wont work on most of you guys new fancy pants square anvils:p


off topic i know sorry just was in a rambeling mood:p
 
Well, the ring is a beautiful sound indeed, but because I do want to hear my baby speaking its first words, I need to dampen it a bit so it doesn't vibrate the teeth out of my jaw. It's a wrought body Hay Budden, and it rings like a church bell, but with the heavy chain tie-down and the silicone, its now a much more hearing friendly tink (even with hearing protecting, that ring gets to you after a while).

--nathan
 
Just buy construction adhesive. First time I used it it held my anvil on for 3 years just by itself. Just put the adhesive on the anvil good and heavy and set it down where you want it to set. Get the anvil off of it for a few minutes so the adhesive has a chance to breath and then stick it back on. Give it two or 3 days to cure. Place a few nails around the foot just so it doesn't slid around.
 
silver_pilate said:
Well, the ring is a beautiful sound indeed, but because I do want to hear my baby speaking its first words, I need to dampen it a bit so it doesn't vibrate the teeth out of my jaw.

--nathan
Click to expand...

Well said Nathan. Ringing anvils might be good for demo's to draw a crowd, but for regular everyday use it should not ring like that if you happen to like hearing things.
 
I have chains holding down my anvil, and welding magnets placed on the side. You can often find a harmonic spot to put the magnet that will greatly reduce the ring. I am sure that my neighbors appreciate it.
Stacy
 
Think of an anvil like a tuning fork with the forks bent out, it sort of works the same way that is why when you hit the horn or heel the ring is worse but hitting the middle still makes it ring. Anvils are fascinating things, alot going on and alot of forgotten techniques for using all different parts of it. Bladesmiths think of anvils for just the small square corner part by the horn, but there are multiple thousands of uses for every shape, corner, hole, curve, step it's fascinating.
 
bladsmth said:
I have chains holding down my anvil, and welding magnets placed on the side. You can often find a harmonic spot to put the magnet that will greatly reduce the ring. I am sure that my neighbors appreciate it.
Stacy
Click to expand...

Stacy, I used the magnets for several years and they did help a great deal although having the anvil glued to a wood base works even better.
 
I wonder if there is such a thing as 'surplus' silicone breast implants... put a set of them under the anvil and chain it down. It would probably work like a charm but all your friends would be touching them all the time. :)
 
My 300 lb Fisher is attached to a section of bridge beam about a foot square.

The beam, sets in a plywood box, that has been filled with 8 inches of sand, the box is just slightly bigger than beam section.

There is a 1/4 inch thick piece of rubber epoxied to the base of the plywood box.

The rubber keeps the box from sliding on the concrete floor and it shapes itself to the floor surface so there is no rocking.

First estimate how high the anvil needs to be, then build the box to the desired height, attach the rubber and fill it with sandbox sand from Lowe's.
Tamp the surface with a section of 4x4 until its firm and flat. I set my Fisher anvil into the box with an engine hoist.

Sand gives 100 percent compaction if just slightly wet.

This arrangement produces a very solid base to hammer on.

It also takes much of the wring out of the anvil. The sand deadens it.

Fred
 
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