Versatile Axe for chopping/splitting? Decent at both?

[ssnova]

I was looking into some axes, I know it's better to buy two separate axes but I was looking into getting one that would be ok at both?

I was watching a video of the shot show 2011 and they were at the condor booth, at 5:17 Joe talks about a new axe coming out with a design for both, he doesn't name it, but looking at the axe head and their catalog it looks to be the "Woodworker" axe.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T71Z4P4Xa38

I was also looking at some Fiskars(heard mixed things about them). My budget is below $50.

 

[Operator1975]

Good luck.

 

[Steve Tall]

An excerpt from an upcoming post by Peter Vido:

"...Steel quality aside for now, many contemporary reproductions no longer have the efficient shape of a classical American ax, and make neither good wood-splitting nor tree-felling tools. (What on this continent was once referred to as a "swamping ax” could normally be used for a whole range of jobs with appreciably better results. I believe that some version of it is the tool to be acquired by a serious homesteader as his/her first or only ax.)"

"Provided that a new owner understands the principles of ax-head shaping, many of the worn old leftovers can be re-conditioned, and most of the readily available “utility” versions somewhat improved. Both cases involve a considerable amount of hand filing or careful electric grinding..."

 

[ssnova]

Swamping Axe. Interesting I have not heard of this before, thanks for mentioning it, I google'd it and read about how it was a general purpose axe used for both felling and chopping. You would think with modern technology they could/would develop a blade that's decent at both.

 

[killa_concept]

Swamping Axe. Interesting I have not heard of this before, thanks for mentioning it, I google'd it and read about how it was a general purpose axe used for both felling and chopping. You would think with modern technology they could/would develop a blade that's decent at both.

They did - it's called a chainsaw

I kid of course. My point being that modern technology can't overcome the set laws of physics and such if you're still working under the same principle (that is, force + wedge). A thicker bladed axe is going to split through wood better but not bite very deep while chopping - a thinner bladed axe is going to bite deeper into wood during felling but is going to bind pretty easily when trying to split it. No design is going to be amazing at both - all modern technology can do in that regard is maybe help calculate the optimal level of compromise between the two and offer better steel that holds up to the tasks better.

Personally, I've found that the vintage, single-bit heads I tend to run by most often on undisclosed bidding sites fit your bill. I believe most of them are considered "michigan" patterns like the head I have below (which has been restored and fitted onto a 32" straight handle) - it's relatively thin for a hardwood axe with bevels that help with chopping but the overall shape is somewhat convex so that it splits fairly easily. Give it a nice, relatively acute grind as pictured and does a pretty admirable job at both chopping and splitting given the right technique is employed

Generally, so long as you have an overall flat to convex shape and not a concave shape combined with a thin edge like on this GB Scandi pictured below, the axe is going to split wood pretty easily. This sort of axe is meant for softwoods and while it bites deep into softwood like nobody's business, splitting hardwood of a larger diameter is going to be a real pain.

**edit** one thing I also completely failed to bring up is the type of wood you plan to work with. If you think you'll mostly be working with soft wood, get the latter shape (thin and concave). It'll limb, fell and chop very well biting quite deep into the wood and should you need to split the wood, you can easily employ the technique shown 13m35s into this video to split rounds of softer wood using a thinner felling-type axes:
[youtube]uYNHWH6ipic[/youtube]

 

[jw2n]

A really odd-ball that appears to only be a good splitter but is fact a very good chopper is Roselli. I bought the hatchet version many years ago and after receiving it, I dismissed it for crosscut chopping. I was wrong. It exceeds your price limit but check it out.

 

[coloradowildman]

For the money you're looking to spend, I'd get a new Fiskars X15 Chopping Axe

It will chop like a banshee and the wedge-shaped heads on Fiskars split extremely well. They have a lifetime warranty which is more than anybody except Gransfors Bruks offers. If you don't mind doing your own sharpening job, the Council Tool Hudson Bay Axe is a great chopper and splitter as well. I have one that I profiled myself and it's one of my favorites. Made in USA too.

 

[ssnova]

Wow thanks guys! I subscribed to my own thread but it never sends me emails, something must be up with the settings. I appreciate all the feedback, very informative! I'm still watching that video killa_concept, thanks for the pics and explanations!

I looked at some Michigan patterns as well as Swedish and Dutch. I also looked at the Fiskar X15, but I have never heard of the Council Tool Hudson Bay Axe. I've always wanted just one "general" purpose axe. I'm still soaking all this in.

 

[Steve Tall]

I've always wanted just one "general" purpose axe.

"Sometimes soon I would like to address the topic of the “ideal single ax”. What I mean is that if you had an option of only one ax to get by with in a serious (i.e. long term) survival situation, what size of an ax (or hatchet) would you choose? Yes, it would depend on whether you live in Florida (where folks consider an air conditioner more essential than a wood-fired heater) or the prairie (with no trees to cut) or some corner of northern Alaska (where it takes a lot of firewood to keep one’s ass warm). But can you start brainstorming that topic with reference to what climate zone you presently live in?"

Written by Peter Vido, from the following thread.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/820720-Introduction-and-quot-The-Devolution-of-Ax-Handles-

 

[rg598]

I think there are just too many possibilities here. One consideration might be that a large axe will generally both split and chop better than a small one, but if you plan on backpacking with it, a large axe may not be the best choice. A versatile single axe for backpacking will most likely differ in size, from an axe used in the backyard.

All that aside however, I think the best fit would probably be a felling axe of your preferred design. The Woodworking axe to which you point is a carpenter’s axe, and while it will get the job done, it is generally not used for either felling or splitting. A felling axe will do adequately well at splitting and of course chopping. How well it performs at each will depend on how you grind the blade.

The Michigan pattern that killa_concept showed above is a good example of a felling axe. The pattern itself is not that significant. I happen to like the Dayton pattern, many others like the Jersey or Rockaway patterns. It is the shape of the bit and cheeks that most influence the characteristics of the axe. I think killa_concept explained it well. The best tutorial on axe re-profiling that I’ve seen is that done by Paul, and you can see it here: http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/04/guest-post-how-to-reprofile-axes-and.html

If you are looking for a medium size axe in the $50 range, you can check out the Husqvarna Traditional Multi-Purpose Axe or the Council Tool Hudson Bay Axe (not the best balance). If you are looking for a full size axe in that price range, the Council Tool Jersey or Dayton pattern axe of the desired weight would be a good call. While Fiskars axes are not to everyone's liking, they will do fairly well at both chopping and splitting.

Some good information is contained in An Ax to Grind, which was put out by the USDA, and the accompanying video, part of which killa_concept put up above.

Also, judging by the promotional materials, it appears that soon we’ll be blessed with some additional information on the subject. I burn with anticipation.

http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/

 

[Operator1975]

If you were looking for something to cover all bases, obviously as stated, the variables as to where when how and why are many indeed.

I know if I had to bank on one to get me through in a long term pinch, I would try and have something with as triangle of a head as I can. What I mean by this is I would have something in the 3 lb to 4 lb range, and the more the triangle pattern to the head the better. I would be able to split with this, and with its size of course I could take care of the little jobs as well. 4 lbs is perhaps a bit much. 3 lbs would probably be better, but again it would depend on variables. If I am going to have to be on the move, then 3 lb. If I am going to hole up at a camp site, bigger the better. Then you would have to think, do I need a single bit just in case i need to do some pounding, or if not, maybe a smaller double bit, cruiser style maybe would be a good choice. Too many variables.