Review Viper Berus 1 review

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Jun 22, 2020
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475
So, pics are going first.
https://pasteboard.co/JTZudeK.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/JTZtUB4.jpg

After few days of carry, here is the review.

Blade shape and geometry 5/5
Handle ergonomics 5/5
Feel in the hand 5/5
Fit and finish 5/5
Blade steel 5/5
Sheath 3/5
Price 3/5

Scary sharp out of the box, and despite being 4mm thick - this thing is one hell of a slicer.
Handle is comfortable, I also really like the jimping and rounded spine which makes the knife more comfortable to use (no, this is not a bushcraft knife.
It just feels good in the hand.
Flawless fit and finish, pretty much the best I've seen so far.
Blade steel is M390, which is enough said.

One disappointment was the sheath, it has some rattle to it. As I usually have a habit of using sheath holes to wrap or tie lanyard or ropes around it, that's what I did, and I just pushed that end of the rope into the sheath next to handle - and the rattle is gone, plus I can still pull the knife out just as easily. So, since this works, I just don't see myself investing in custom sheath.

Then, the price... yes it is expensive. But, it's one of cheapest M390 knives (second cheapest) and there are even D2 and 1095 knives of similar dimensions and same or even higher price (usually from US manufacturers and I'm European) so if you look at it from that perspective - it's a bargain.
But from the other side, there's stuff in similar dimensions, and less premium steel, for much lower price.

Would I buy it again?
-Yes

Am I going to carry it?
-Yes

Am I still going to carry my D2 Boker Gobag?
-Yes, especially for less formal occasions or when I might lose my knife (walks, hikes, BBQ with friends and so on)
 
I know this is an old post, but I thought I'd share a tip regarding the sheath. While it does rattle it's in no danger of falling out, to the contrary some may find it a bit stubborn to draw early on. Something I did relieved both characteristics.
I took an section of adhesive Velcro/hook & loop strip, then cut the loop portion (the softer part) into a sort of ring with the hole cut so that it surrounded the dentent of the sheath, but left the detent exposed.
This adds enough friction to stabilize the blade in the sheath while still allowing the detent to secure the knife.
It also causes the detent to hold the blade in a little less aggressive manner. If after a while you find the natural wear that happens over time to the detent isn't holding the blade as securely as you'd prefer, you can add a piece of loop tape to the other side of the sheath instead, leaving the detent completely unobstructed, and it will actually push the detent into the hole on the handle while still adding the friction to keep it from rattling. Of course you don't have to use the same thing I did, just find something you can stick around the detent: various tape (gorilla, electrical, packing, etc). Thicker strips will hold it more securely, thinner less.

I agree that the grind and bevel geometry is quite a bit thinner than the thickness of the blade stock would imply it should be. Personally I prefer thicker blades, even at the expense of slicing ability. I find myself needing to pry things a lot, and having a blade that can take it is preferable to a thinner and sharper one that might snap.
Besides sharpening and honing blades isn't an issue for me. I'm particular about few things, but having a nightmarishly sharp edge has always been one them. I used to favor carbon steel, the last smaller one I owned was a Becker BK14. It held a good edge, but would lose its bite after cutting a dozen or so pieces of paracord.* I literally had to hone it daily and sharpened it quite often. The result was the blade getting quite a bit smaller in just a couple months. I've owned M390 pocket knives and a larger fixed in CMP M4, both of which would go quite a while before even needing stropping, let alone honing (I've had the M4 for a few years now and even though I use it 5-6 days a week, I've yet needed to sharpen it after I put the initial one when I first bought it) prior to this, so I went with this for an EDC fixed. It was a perfect fit (pun intended, NEVER intended 😠)
I was quite surprised at is edge though, I would have thought it would have needed to have a hollow grind to be able to hold the high bevel angle I put on it.

Along with the pun, I didn't intend this post to be this long either.

*I suspect that the Becker had an issue with the heat treat. Like I said I've owned 1095 before, and while I know that it doesn't come close to compare with M390 in edge retention(or even S35VN or a decent D2), it should have held it better. Becker actually used 1095 Cro-Van which is supposed to be a little better at holding an edge, but it ended up being noticably softer than 1095 Ive had on my Esee. That and it seemed the age closer to the tip held it's edge much better than it does closer to the handle makes an improper tempering a likely cause.
 
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