Warehouse Picker needs a proper Blade

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Sep 7, 2007
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18
Hi blade forums members,

I work in a warehouse which dealing with a variety of imported items, anyway the problem I am having is dealing with crappy stanley knives which can't hold up to persistent carboard cutting and the general warehouse duties. I was wondering whether I'd be better off getting a cold steel neck knife as the majority of my my work is cutting cable ties/packaging items and cutting cardboard. So I don't think a multi tool is required but then again I'm a newbie with my knives...

What would you guys use if you were involved in warehouse work?

Sorry for the random questions just sick of the stanley branded knives being POS and my SAK isn't holding its sharpness with me cutting boxes 5 days a week for 5-10 hours..
 
Get a fully serrated Spyderco Endura. They are great for separating matter.
 
Honestly, if you cut cardboard boxes all day every day, you're probably still better off with a box cutter with replaceable blades. The problem with using a knife that holds an edge for a long time is that when it gets dull, it's going to take a lot of time and effort to get it sharp again. However, if you're set on dedicating a "real" knife to this job, I would recommend looking into a fully serrated Spyderco, particularly ones with straight or hawkbill blades. The straight ones are "rescue" knives, but work great for what you'd use it for (also look at the Atlantic Salt). Hawkbills would be like the Harpy or Tasman Salt/Hawk Salt. Straight blades give great control in draw cuts like you'll do cutting cardboard or slicing open packaging. A hawkbill will give you even more control, but being specific to such cutting, is less useful for other general tasks.
 
I've had this Endura Clipit for a long time. With a DMT tapered diamond rod, it sharpens up without much difficulty.

endura.jpg
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I also work in a warehouse and cut hundreds of feet of cardboard and have found if you want to use a utility knife I have found Irwin bi-metal utility blades hold an edge longer than any other blade,I found them at Lowes.I do mind sharpening my knife and have found Elmax steel holds up to five days longer and I keep my Spyderco Sharpmaker at work for touch ups.I hope this helps.
Thanks,
Michael
 
I would buy a nice utility knife that uses razor blades. If your doing that much cardboard cutting among everything else that sucker is gonna need sharpened extremely often.
 
I do(or did) two Warehouse picking jobs.
I found that my Spyderco Paramilitary 2 was my favorite work knife.
While I use my Sebenza for all of my EDC Tasks - I carried the Para 2 at work, mostly because it's much cheaper than the Sebenza, but holds it's edge well, can be used for a multitude of things from light to moderately heavy use, while the FFG blade makes it a great slicer. I love it and it's the perfect work knife for boxes, tape, ties, and several other things.
It runs around $100ish but it's well worth every penny. You'll realize the Para 2 is a Forum Favorite lol.

You could go cheaper and get a Kershaw Skyline, an s30v, or composite blade Kershaw. I would suggest the Kershaw Rake - It's a little cheaper and a perfect EDC that gets sharp and cuts cardboard and such like a champ, I carried one for months.

Out of the Rake and Para 2 I would go for the Para 2, but truly it's up to you. But those are two great work knives.
 
What is your price point? I would recommend something with a blade steel like 1095 or better ESEE and Becker knives are great if you want a fixed blade. and if you need a folder look at spyderco and Zero Tolerance knives they are great too. I have been carrying a ZT0350 for over 9 months and have no major complaints.
 
That sounds like a job for CPM-M4 or other very high wear resistance steels.
 
I cut cardboard all day at work too and my Sage (1 or 2) does very well with edge holding. The blade is ground really thin too so it slices through even double thick cardboard with ease. Before the Sage my Delica 4 PE did really good too since its such a thin blade.
 
That sounds like a job for CPM-M4 or other very high wear resistance steels.


I agree with a thin bladed knife in CPM M4 for cardboard,

...CTS-XHP also keeps on cutting in the abrasive material.


As a knife guy, I just get no pleasure using a box cutter.




Big Mike
 
Hawkbill blade is also very handy for deanimating boxes.

Worked in a warehouse while in college and still open a few cartons every week nowadays. My choice is a Spydie Tasman Salt with yellow FRN handles. If I didn't already use the Salt, I'd be using my SuperHawk. Plain edge knives are easy to sharpen with a Sharpmaker, rod or even car window glass. SE blades needing lots of sharpening from regular use are a PITA to maintain.
 
I get no pleasure either from using utility knives. But it is not about pleasure. It's work. I suggest you find a utility knife (aka good box cutter) that is comfortable to hold. The smaller ones look cool, but the big ones keep your knuckles further away from the cutting. Keep the knife as a backup.
 
That sounds like a job for CPM-M4 or other very high wear resistance steels.

My thoughts exactly. A spyderco Gayle Bradley would fit the bill nicely as long as you don't mind oiling it every now and then (m4 is not stainless). Another option in m4 would be one of the limited edition m4 griptilians from gpknives, but you'd better hurry if you want one of those, only 300 made and they'll be gone soon.

As others have said though, if you want to keep the price a bit lower and don't mind a serrated edge, a fully serrated spyderco endura is a tough knife to beat for your uses.
 
I get no pleasure either from using utility knives. But it is not about pleasure. It's work. I suggest you find a utility knife (aka good box cutter) that is comfortable to hold. The smaller ones look cool, but the big ones keep your knuckles further away from the cutting. Keep the knife as a backup.

Quoted for truth. Just use the previously mentioned bi-metal blades. They are very nice. If you really must have a real knife, something in 1/16-3/32" stock will tear down boxes much much easier than 1/8". Also, stay away from serrations, unless you like sawing through everything.
 
Quoted for truth. Just use the previously mentioned bi-metal blades. They are very nice. If you really must have a real knife, something in 1/16-3/32" stock will tear down boxes much much easier than 1/8". Also, stay away from serrations, unless you like sawing through everything.

+1 to all the above.

Some day somebody is going to offer utility blades in a high-wear powder steel and then cardboard will be massacred like never before. But until then geometry is still more important than steel. A fresh utility blade will cut better than a S90V Millie.
 
I use a disposable blade box cutter that fold. Got it for under $10 and came with a 5 pack of blades. It and if you are really into sharpening you can hone the blades some though they will not be as good as factory, they are just to narrow/soft. If not then new blades are cheap. Just make sure you get one that holds onto blades well.
 
I would keep a pair of wire cutters (pliers) for the cable ties in a sheath on your belt in addition to the utility knife. They cut more precisely and you aren't struggling to cut the ties.
 
I cut a lot of cardboard also and find the Military or Para 2 does a fine job and even in S30V they might need to be touched up about once a week.

Just keep a coarser edge on them and it will just keep cutting.
 
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