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Discussion in 'Spyderco' started by hollowdweller, Oct 13, 2012.
Mine did both
You can see the chipping a little better in this pic
Those last pics also give a good sense of just how thin the edge is. Thank you.
I think the problem is being too thin. Hardness does not seem to be an issue.
In testing, I'm at .010/ 011 edge thickness and 30 degrees inclusive and had no problems with oak this morning (day 3). I've been "sneaking up" on the edge thickness about 3-4 thou per day and experienced chipping on the stock blade and the first two days. We'd like to keep the edge as thin as possible and still be able to carve hard wood. We're also assuming one knows how to carve wood.
Last I read, Yab was at about 7 thou? and cutting ok?
A microbevel will probably take care of this. I've got thinner knives in D2 and they incurred worse damage with similar usage, but a small microbevel took care of it easily.
Yep. I left it at 7 thousands, and 20° included, although I'd have to take that up to 30° or higher for hardwoods. I've used it for all the rough shaping on the same block of basswood that trashed it the first time.
quote myself from the other thread, not sure the steel is not part of the issue, s30v isnt the steel that shows the most edge stability ...
Just so you will know, the factory edge on the Nilakka was about 5° per side for a total of 10° included angle, not 10° per side. My previous experiences as well as this one tell me that is straight razor territory.
I have a nilakka. It is a great knife.
It is too bad the design and manufacturing of such a nice knife is being overshadowed by this problem.
I only hope I can get ahold of a few more of these ultra thin ones.
Woops, repeated myself
It is a beautiful knife, and I really enjoy using it. But when the edge of a $200 knife can't stand up as well as that of a $0.34 single edge razor blade, I think that is a problem that needs to be addressed.
Would a chisel ground blade work better on this knife? I'm serious.
Thanks for all the positive comments. This folder is a great design.
Define "better". Not being a chef, I personally find chisel grinds simply annoying on anything but a wood chisel.
Are not Scandi grinds chisel grinds and Scandis excel at cutting wood, no?
I do appreciate the discussion and this being brought to light. I put a small bevel on mine almost before I cut a thing thanks to this thread. Saving me lots of trouble, so thank you.
I also pulled off the clip and sanded the sharp corners off of the hole under the clip so it would go in and out of the pocket nicely. That sharp corner was hanging up on the way in and out of my pocket.
Not an expert but pretty sure chisel = flat on one side and angled on the other, whereas Scandi = angled on both sides, in which case, no, scandi and chisel do not overlap
Thank you kreole.
I'm not sure what mine is now but this AM I whittled thru a knot before I left for work and no problems.
However I still think something like 3v would be a better steel for this knife. Seems like the S30V and thin edge tends to dull more easily.
HD- Can you please post a pic?
Thanx much for all of the communication. Thanx Yab, I think that might be too thin for "general" customers. I'll make my final decisions this weekend. Then we'll mod all of the pieces and begin shipping.
If you really want a "stock" one, you'll have to contact sales or me to get one.
Thank you Sal.
Slim- If you are going to order a "stock" Nilakka, order an extra one please.