WARNING: Pekko Nilakka Folder!!!!

Bill1170 said:
Yablanowitz's comment above, combined with Sal's remark that they tested at Rc 61, and understanding they are made of s30v... just blows my mind. Anyone else remember when lots of folks claimed s30v was chippy? What has changed? These blades are rolling like much more ductile steels. Could the very thin edge have become annealed during grinding?.
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Mine did both

puk6.jpg


puk7.jpg


You can see the chipping a little better in this pic
 
I think the problem is being too thin. Hardness does not seem to be an issue.

In testing, I'm at .010/ 011 edge thickness and 30 degrees inclusive and had no problems with oak this morning (day 3). I've been "sneaking up" on the edge thickness about 3-4 thou per day and experienced chipping on the stock blade and the first two days. We'd like to keep the edge as thin as possible and still be able to carve hard wood. We're also assuming one knows how to carve wood.

Last I read, Yab was at about 7 thou? and cutting ok?

sal
 
A microbevel will probably take care of this. I've got thinner knives in D2 and they incurred worse damage with similar usage, but a small microbevel took care of it easily.
 
Sal Glesser said:
I think the problem is being too thin. Hardness does not seem to be an issue.

In testing, I'm at .010/ 011 edge thickness and 30 degrees inclusive and had no problems with oak this morning (day 3). I've been "sneaking up" on the edge thickness about 3-4 thou per day and experienced chipping on the stock blade and the first two days. We'd like to keep the edge as thin as possible and still be able to carve hard wood. We're also assuming one knows how to carve wood.

Last I read, Yab was at about 7 thou? and cutting ok?

sal
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Yep. I left it at 7 thousands, and 20° included, although I'd have to take that up to 30° or higher for hardwoods. I've used it for all the rough shaping on the same block of basswood that trashed it the first time.
 
quote myself from the other thread, not sure the steel is not part of the issue, s30v isnt the steel that shows the most edge stability ...


pwet said:
if there's something to keep in the three specs i'd like it to be thickness, so i'd really like it to be rethought in another steel with more edge stability, hard carbon or tool steel may be the way to go, 3v at 62, m4 at 64.

some stainlesses may work too cpm154, 19c27 ...

just thinking loud, i'm no knifemaker but i've seen a lot of customs that were basicaly zeroground and that worked ... probably slightly steeper grinds but nowhere near that fragile.

oh and btw the reason i think steel is the problem :

i've put some of my kitchen knives on the edge pro. all are freehand sharpened, all are dedicated slicers, thinned and sharpened as thin as i can hold them. all can handle a least one full day of work without resharpening, this means prep for two services, two service .... neither chip or roll when used on a hardwood cutting board, minor issues when my hand gets heavy on PEHD cutting board.

the list: takeda wa gyuto in super blue, ikkanshi tadatsuna wa sujihiki in white steel, suisin inox honyaki in 19c27, fowler wa gyuto in 52100, mizuno tanrenjo yanagiba in blue 1, suisin kama usuba in blue 2 ...

the results : kissing the edge on the finest polish tape at 10° (checked with angle cube) for a couple of strokes each side resulted in a microbevel that was barely visible on each side, meaning that every knives was lower that 10°/side.

pretty surprised by those results btw, i knew i was below 15°/side but never thought i was that low.
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pwet said:
quote myself from the other thread, not sure the steel is not part of the issue, s30v isnt the steel that shows the most edge stability ...
Click to expand...

Just so you will know, the factory edge on the Nilakka was about 5° per side for a total of 10° included angle, not 10° per side. My previous experiences as well as this one tell me that is straight razor territory.
 
I have a nilakka. It is a great knife.
It is too bad the design and manufacturing of such a nice knife is being overshadowed by this problem.
I only hope I can get ahold of a few more of these ultra thin ones.
 
It is a beautiful knife, and I really enjoy using it. But when the edge of a $200 knife can't stand up as well as that of a $0.34 single edge razor blade, I think that is a problem that needs to be addressed.
 
Would a chisel ground blade work better on this knife? I'm serious.
Thanks for all the positive comments. This folder is a great design.
 
Define "better". Not being a chef, I personally find chisel grinds simply annoying on anything but a wood chisel.
 
Are not Scandi grinds chisel grinds and Scandis excel at cutting wood, no?
 
I do appreciate the discussion and this being brought to light. I put a small bevel on mine almost before I cut a thing thanks to this thread. Saving me lots of trouble, so thank you.

I also pulled off the clip and sanded the sharp corners off of the hole under the clip so it would go in and out of the pocket nicely. That sharp corner was hanging up on the way in and out of my pocket.
 
Lycosa said:
Are not Scandi grinds chisel grinds and Scandis excel at cutting wood, no?
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Not an expert but pretty sure chisel = flat on one side and angled on the other, whereas Scandi = angled on both sides, in which case, no, scandi and chisel do not overlap

chisel
grind_chisel.jpg


scandis
AJOLV.jpg
 
yablanowitz said:
Just so you will know, the factory edge on the Nilakka was about 5° per side for a total of 10° included angle, not 10° per side. My previous experiences as well as this one tell me that is straight razor territory.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what mine is now but this AM I whittled thru a knot before I left for work and no problems.

However I still think something like 3v would be a better steel for this knife. Seems like the S30V and thin edge tends to dull more easily.
 
Thanx much for all of the communication. Thanx Yab, I think that might be too thin for "general" customers. I'll make my final decisions this weekend. Then we'll mod all of the pieces and begin shipping.

Hey Slimshaneee,

If you really want a "stock" one, you'll have to contact sales or me to get one.

sal
 
Thank you Sal.
Slim- If you are going to order a "stock" Nilakka, order an extra one please.
Rolf
 
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