Ankerson
Knife and Computer Geek
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2002
- Messages
- 21,093
No. I'm saying that an unusably thin edge can be made usable in minutes, where an unusably thick edge takes many times longer to bring into usability.
I have FFG edges at 0.005 (thank you Tom Krein) and under 20 inclusive that don't fail, and will easily outcut any scandi grind in wood. Easily. It's also at 67 HRC, which gives it the strength to support that edge. Strength is directly related to hardness, in case you were wondering.
I really take exception to all these statements that the scandi grinds are best for wood, with everyone sitting around nodding their heads. BS. Yes, there are better scandis than others, and there are better FFG's and convexes than others, but from my measurements, my $10 Moras (number 1's and number 2's) are over TWICE as thick than some of my relatively inexpensive FFG's, both in primary grind or edge thickness. They don't even come close in cutting ability. Yes, for a $10 knife, they work fine, but they are certainly NOT the be-all end-all of knives or wood cutting.
If you want to use an inexpensive steel, and slap a thick grind on it (yes, I'm calling Moras thick), then go ahead and use one. They work. My point is that there are others that work much better.
Spyderco should be commended for trying this. If you go too thick, you simply get a knife that doesn't cut well, there's no risk to the maker except perhaps reputation. If you go too thin, then you run the far greater risk of edge damage and reputation. The edge damage is easily fixed, but yet, they will probably have to make some changes - before their reputation and the knife's reputation is wrongly trashed.
Exactly, this is 63.5 HRC and .006" to .002" towards the tip so yes thin grinds can hold up to harder work.