WARNING: Pekko Nilakka Folder!!!!

sodak said:
No. I'm saying that an unusably thin edge can be made usable in minutes, where an unusably thick edge takes many times longer to bring into usability.

I have FFG edges at 0.005 (thank you Tom Krein) and under 20 inclusive that don't fail, and will easily outcut any scandi grind in wood. Easily. It's also at 67 HRC, which gives it the strength to support that edge. Strength is directly related to hardness, in case you were wondering.

I really take exception to all these statements that the scandi grinds are best for wood, with everyone sitting around nodding their heads. BS. Yes, there are better scandis than others, and there are better FFG's and convexes than others, but from my measurements, my $10 Moras (number 1's and number 2's) are over TWICE as thick than some of my relatively inexpensive FFG's, both in primary grind or edge thickness. They don't even come close in cutting ability. Yes, for a $10 knife, they work fine, but they are certainly NOT the be-all end-all of knives or wood cutting.

If you want to use an inexpensive steel, and slap a thick grind on it (yes, I'm calling Moras thick), then go ahead and use one. They work. My point is that there are others that work much better.

Spyderco should be commended for trying this. If you go too thick, you simply get a knife that doesn't cut well, there's no risk to the maker except perhaps reputation. If you go too thin, then you run the far greater risk of edge damage and reputation. The edge damage is easily fixed, but yet, they will probably have to make some changes - before their reputation and the knife's reputation is wrongly trashed.
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Exactly, this is 63.5 HRC and .006" to .002" towards the tip so yes thin grinds can hold up to harder work.

DSC_2932.JPG


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DSC_2962_cropped.jpg


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Was gonna grab one of these but thought the handles looked like cheap imitation wood! And now hearing of blade issues this ll be a no go for Striderco!
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Cody,

Welcome to our forum.

What we're doing now is 60 strokes on a diamond at 30 degrees and 20 strokes on a fine stone at 30 degerees. Seems to be working fine.

sal
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Striderco said:
Was gonna grab one of these but thought the handles looked like cheap imitation wood! And now hearing of blade issues this ll be a no go for Striderco!
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Looks like Sal got it worked out so they should be fine. :)
 
Sal Glesser said:
What we're doing now is 60 strokes on a diamond at 30 degrees and 20 strokes on a fine stone at 30 degerees. Seems to be working fine.

sal
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First, Sal, thanks for taking on this "issue" head-on. Your hands-on response to the problem has been outstanding.

I'm really taken with my first-issue Nilakka, as shipped. It's an amazing piece of design.
In response to the reports, I've simply relegated my Nilakka to light duty, so I've experienced no issues with the edge, to date.
My dilemma is whether to proceed with the micro-beveling or simply hang on to the initial concept model in it's original state. It's a tough decision.
I'll be very anxious to see what the re-profiled edge looks like, and the reports from the forum inmates as to its day-to-day efficacy.
For now, I think I'd best sit and wait.

Nilakka%25205.jpg
 
bayvillageidiot said:
First, Sal, thanks for taking on this "issue" head-on. Your hands-on response to the problem has been outstanding.

I'm really taken with my first-issue Nilakka, as shipped. It's an amazing piece of design.
In response to the reports, I've simply relegated my Nilakka to light duty, so I've experienced no issues with the edge, to date.
My dilemma is whether to proceed with the micro-beveling or simply hang on to the initial concept model in it's original state. It's a tough decision.
I'll be very anxious to see what the re-profiled edge looks like, and the reports from the forum inmates as to its day-to-day efficacy.
For now, I think I'd best sit and wait.

Nilakka%25205.jpg
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I wouldn't change it unless you have a problem.
 
I wanted one of these really really bad and have not been able to purchase one cause I'm away. I'm glad I didn't. How can I be sure to get one of the corrected ones and not one of the older ones because I def can not reproduce the edge.

This is amazing that the owner of the company is directly addressing this issue.... I do not think you would see this from any production company.

Truly remarkable individual and he gained much respect from me from this post
 
jsrice said:
I wanted one of these really really bad and have not been able to purchase one cause I'm away. I'm glad I didn't. How can I be sure to get one of the corrected ones and not one of the older ones because I def can not reproduce the edge.

This is amazing that the owner of the company is directly addressing this issue.... I do not think you would see this from any production company.

Truly remarkable individual and he gained much respect from me from this post
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Sal Glesser is a class act for sure. :)
 
sodak said:
No. I'm saying that an unusably thin edge can be made usable in minutes, where an unusably thick edge takes many times longer to bring into usability.

I have FFG edges at 0.005 (thank you Tom Krein) and under 20 inclusive that don't fail, and will easily outcut any scandi grind in wood. Easily. It's also at 67 HRC, which gives it the strength to support that edge. Strength is directly related to hardness, in case you were wondering.

I really take exception to all these statements that the scandi grinds are best for wood, with everyone sitting around nodding their heads. BS. Yes, there are better scandis than others, and there are better FFG's and convexes than others, but from my measurements, my $10 Moras (number 1's and number 2's) are over TWICE as thick than some of my relatively inexpensive FFG's, both in primary grind or edge thickness. They don't even come close in cutting ability. Yes, for a $10 knife, they work fine, but they are certainly NOT the be-all end-all of knives or wood cutting.

If you want to use an inexpensive steel, and slap a thick grind on it (yes, I'm calling Moras thick), then go ahead and use one. They work. My point is that there are others that work much better.

Spyderco should be commended for trying this. If you go too thick, you simply get a knife that doesn't cut well, there's no risk to the maker except perhaps reputation. If you go too thin, then you run the far greater risk of edge damage and reputation. The edge damage is easily fixed, but yet, they will probably have to make some changes - before their reputation and the knife's reputation is wrongly trashed.
Click to expand...

I think it was a bold move to try it but perhaps more testing was in order before sending them out the door. Either way Mr. Glesser is not only resolving the issue but also interacting with the community here. It's a reassuring sight and I don't think Spyderco's reputation will be damaged because the issue was recognized and is being corrected so quickly.
 
PB Wilson said:
I believe that Lycosa and others (including myself) might like to see the blade after being ground back and in a "whittle-ready" state.
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PB, and Lycosa,

I finally got around to taking the pics today.

I'm home and on dialup so I can't upload to my pichosting account so I can post them here. I'll try to do that Monday.

However I did upload them to the end of my ongoing review and some other pics of testing the new edge out here:

http://www.hollowdweller.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2298&p=16487#p16487

It's cool they are re profiling them, but honestly I'm just as happy I got to get one at zero and take it back only as far as I wanted. I'm pretty sure I'm below 30 degrees and no problem.
 
hollowdweller said:
It's cool they are re profiling them, but honestly I'm just as happy I got to get one at zero and take it back only as far as I wanted. I'm pretty sure I'm below 30 degrees and no problem.
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We have to make an adjustment that will work for most. Knowledgable knife afi's are often easier for us to deal with when we go "exotic", but not all of our customers are knowledgable afi's. :eek:

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
We have to make an adjustment that will work for most. Knowledgable knife afi's are often easier for us to deal with when we go "exotic", but not all of our customers are knowledgable afi's. :eek:

sal
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I hear you. and understand. Hey, thanks for putting this knife out.
 
HD, I'm wondering about the handle comfort ( I saw you comment on it in the other post). What do you think could be changed to make it more comfortable for extended use, could the edges be smoothed a bit, or do you think it would be a complete re-slab? Thanks man
 
Jroden5446 said:
HD, I'm wondering about the handle comfort ( I saw you comment on it in the other post). What do you think could be changed to make it more comfortable for extended use, could the edges be smoothed a bit, or do you think it would be a complete re-slab? Thanks man
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I'd say wear a glove.

I think it would be hard to modify the exsisting scales to make it more comfortable.

The main problem for me is that there along the back of the handle there is not enough width. So if you are cutting something hard and pushing forward the fact that that area is so thin it concentrates the back pressure on your hand.

You could TRY to take a little of the sharp edge off where the scales and spine meet and that might help a little, but I think it's more a function of the narrowness.

What I would do is make new scales that from the middle of the diamond shape do not taper toward the back of the handle as much, leaving a wider area to distribute the force across the back of your hand.

OK notice how that it tapers to the back of the handle

puk2.jpg




Now notice how this has a bit more width at the back plus is more rounded from the center point to the back.


arctic5.jpg


I don't think you'd have to make the whole handle as rounded as this one is, but if you just made the scales wider from the widest part to the top of the handle and then slightly rounded the angle from side to top of the handle on the scales it would work wonders comfort wise and the clip probably wouldn't even have to be modded to fit the new handle, and you wouldn't need difft length screws because all of that would be in the part from the middle to where your fingers curve around which is done about right for comfort.
 
Thanks for that response HD, makes it very clear. When I have a bit more spending cash I may pick one up and put done wood slabs on it. Thanks again
 
Lycosa said:
Thanks for the pix, HD.
I STILL want one.
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Oh I'd still buy one for sure there Lycosa.

Pick up one of the Enzo's too though if you can find one for a decent price. The spyderco is around 60 bucks more but it's a bigger knife.
 
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