WD-40, why not to use it

[dr_fosg8]

It is popular and still around because used as intended it is good. If you overuse any lube it will get "gunky" any place that a lube is over used it will collect dust because that is what wet stuff does, collect particles.

 

[thombrogan]

I even use it on my bass strings!

Very good to know. I use a DuPont teflon+mineral oil mixture very lightly on the nut and the saddles of my guitar. Stays in tune very well despite my use of "outdated" non-locking tuners.

12. Removes stains from stainless steel sinks. Cleans the fronts of Stainless steel appliances (have personally seen the employees of Lowes use it on their appliances in the store to keep them new looking)

I'm going to try this. Thanks, rsngfrce! I shall sweep-pick several arpeggios in your scallop-necked honor.

 

[Marty Young]

What do you guys use instead of WD-40, then?

I use a lube called semprini.

 

[powernoodle]

Mr. Stitchawl speaks words of wisdom.

In the "Meet Your Maker" video on youtube, Part 2, Chris Reeve said they wipe down the titanium on Sebenzas with WD-40 before they are shipped out. My take on things is that if WD-40 was as nasty as some people claim, it would not be used and recommended by the top makers of multitools (Leatherman) and knives (CRK). Like Brother Stitchawl said, it all boils down to how you use it. Which is pretty much true with everything in life.

 

[Charlie_K]

Somebody point me out a wet lubricant that doesn't ask as a dirt/dust/gunk magnet when it's used in a dirty environment.

 

[uxo2]

Somebody point me out a wet lubricant that doesn't ask as a dirt/dust/gunk magnet when it's used in a dirty environment.

I dont believe anyone will.


WD40 has its place in your home
and some of your projects.

It is a great cleaner.
A Gereral Purpose do it all but sometimes not the best.


As a knife lube ..Only if I have nothing else.

 

[Drew Riley]

I think the disdain for WD-40 comes mainly from misuse and misinformation.

People need to understand that not all lubes are created equal, nor are they suitable for any and all applications. For instance, you wouldn't pour WD-40 into your car's engine and expect it to perform the same as 10w30 motor oil.

WD40 is an excellent cleaner, and sometimes it cleans things out that you wouldn't necessarily want cleaned, like the original grease/lubricant that was intended for a certain mechanism or machine. I would think that the lock failures had to do less with dirt and dust sticking to them, and more with the fact that WD40 isn't really meant to be that great of a metal on metal lubricant, such as a Teflon based grease or graphite powder would be.

 

[HuntBomb]

KTAGF and PNoodle are right.
WD-40 wouldn't be so popular if it didn't work.
There's a reason it's one of the most popular lubes/protectants/cleaners in history.
It has been a necessity for my entire family for as long as I can remember and we have cans all over the place because it is so diverse.
The new silicone based WD-40 specialist also kicks butt. Anyone else tried it?
That being said, I now use nano-oil and 3 in 1 oil on my knives/guns just because it's the new cool thing to do.

 

[Sharpnessis]

Somebody point me out a wet lubricant that doesn't ask as a dirt/dust/gunk magnet when it's used in a dirty environment.

I love wd40 I buy it by the gallon. But this stuff caught my eye. I'm going to try it soon.


§ David §

 

[Rick Marchand]

I've used WD-40 on outdoor equipment, tools, bikes, etc... since I was a kid. As a knifemaker, I wanted to use the best, most versatile stuff I could. After 2-3 years of solvents, waxes and lubes I went back to WD-40. I do keep a cloth of mineral oil a ziplock for wiping down blades and sheaths... Ren.Wax is occasionally used in my shop as well. But WD-40 will always be a mainstay. Because I use so much of it, gloves make sense. I don't have any info to back up the NEED for gloves... it is just a precaution I chose to take.

Edit to add... I buy it by the jug and use a spray bottle... not the aerosol. A couple hand sanding sessions in the right light convinced me of how much the propellant puts into the air.

 

[RickJ]

It contains mineral oil, which is a lube. Ergo, WD-40 is a lube.

I must not use WD-40 right, because I've never seen it get gummy. But I believe those who say they have seen it. WD-40 consists of mineral spirits, mineral oil and propellant. The mineral spirits is volatile and evaporates in a few seconds, leaving behind the mineral oil as a light lube. Mineral oil is the same stuff you find in a bottle of Johnson's Baby Oil. I like WD-40, and so does Leatherman, who recommends it on their multitools. But to each his own. There are plenty of good ones out there if WD-40 doesn't do it for you. Rock on.

I use WD-40 on my Leatherman Tools as well, plus I use it on all my outdoor tools. I like it and always have a can around. I use CLP on my knives and Guns.

 

[thombrogan]

But this stuff caught my eye. I'm going to try it soon.

Worked great when the hood latch on my van didn't hook and worked okay for loosening some bolts on my neighbor's tractor attachment (homemade Kubota snowplow for the win!). Gives that "I frequently soak in turpentine for weeks on end" smell to anyone and anything.

 

[stitchawl]

I've used WD-40 ..................... Because I use so much of it, gloves make sense. I don't have any info to back up the NEED for gloves... it is just a precaution I chose to take.

When used so often, gloves ARE a good idea. While the mineral oil won't hurt you, repeated contact with the Stoddard Solvent can. Once in a while contact isn't a problem, but used often... Well, as you say, it makes sense.


Stitchawl

 

[Rick Marchand]

While the mineral oil won't hurt you, repeated contact with the Stoddard Solvent can.

Especially if your hands are dry and cracked or ridden with scrapes and cuts.

 

[Zaper]

I have used WD-40 in rusted nuts and screws, locks, guns, machinery, etc.

Water displacement, mineral oil and rust inhibitor, my equipment is happy so, I'm happy.

 

[bdmicarta]

I've used WD-40 for a long time. It seems to work reasonably well as a lubricant right after it is applied, but becomes ineffective over time. I have also used it as rust protection. I found that I can spray it liberally on a tool, let it set for a few minutes, then wipe it all off and it will offer pretty good protection. But then I am in an area that is not overly humid.

I finally discovered that if you want lubricant there are much better lubricants available. I use a product called "Superlube" these days.

There are better protectant products available too. I have used Metal Seal before, and also Sheath.

I have on a few occasions since becoming enlightened used WD40 for its intended purpose- water displacement. I had to use some tools out in the rain one day. After taking them inside I stripped them down, sprayed them liberally with WD40, wiped it all off, then applied my preferred protectant. The remaining WD40 that I have I save for use as a cleaner only, or for water displacement. I use the better products for lubrication or protection.

And I agree that WD40 has done a very good job of promoting their product, which is now synonymous with lubricant and everybody thinks it is the best available.

 

[blame it on god]

I use it after I shake all the water off of my pocket knives after an ultrasonic cleaning. It draws the water out and then I blow it out with compressed air. Then I apply my lube of choice.

 

[trailtime]

I thought it would be useful to actually real-world test various lubricants/protectants. Note that this was a corrosion test, not a lube test and involved only what I had in my garage at the time. Test was begun in the spring and used an old crosscut saw as a baseline. The saw was belt sanded to remove all rust and segmented for the various compounds. The steel on either side of the marked off areas was left unprotected. The saw blade was then left on my Virginia woodpile exposed to the weather for a couple months. Note that ALL compounds provided some degree of protection and unprotected areas rusted up (as you would expect). Numbers 9 and 10 were combined, since the WD-40 was the thinnest and ran into the next segment. The results speak for themselves.

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[Fupse R.]

I spray WD40 on garden tools to protect from rust and it gums up in a few weeks.
I never use it as a lube and I don't use it for rust protection on anything I care about ( ie guns or knives)

I use Militech-1 for lubrication and RemOil for rust protection.

Which od those do you use for knives? I heard from one guy on UT and watched as he used militech, which he and I were very well aware is for guns, and he then used a strong hairdryer to heat it up enough to "activate" he said the bonding of the oil? I don't have guns, so I've never had to understand this stuff, I'm learning all this as I'm trying to find a way to protect and care for my new additions to my blade collection, the none stainless and while I hear mineral oils is good? I hear it's messy, gums up the pivot, and to be honest I don't like the political talk of, it's not officially a cancerogenic item, but like it's still mentioned because... who knows leaves me feeling uneasy about it. But I am a little bit paranoid when it comes to chemical I don't know much about. Stainless was just easy, if anything got stuck on it a good wash and wipe was enough, worst case scenario a alcohol rub to clean anything sticking to it. But yeah. New to this whole, I'll be with rust tomorrow if you ignore me stuff so some instruction for my ignorant butt would be awesome. Gotta learn sometime right?

Oh yeah lost track, someone else mentioned on another post here that the film militech oil leaves actually ruins the knife? But he gave no clarification on how, my hopes of a 3v protected by militech-1 seems to be crushed if he is right, any insight on anyone who knows? And what's my alternative options?

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Militech won't hurt your knives. It doesn't require heating to "activate" it.

Nor will WD 40.