Welding helmet question

[weo]

Hello all. As I've been tacking up a few more billet yesterday and today I noticed that, as I was welding the handle on the stack, a few times I got a bright flash as I was welding. I turned up the shade to max (14), where I could barely see where I should weld, and still got some bright flashes. Is this a sign that I need a new lens?
I have a Cornwell Tools auto darkening helmet with the solar(?) panel above the viewing lens.
Also, not sure if it matters, but it's a stick welder I use
Thanks

as always
peace and love
billyO

 

[stbob]

.

 

[Matt Rochester]

I agree with stbob on the batteries. Also check your sensitivity setting. If it’s too low, and you long arc it, it could flash.

 

[weo]

if you long arc it, it could flash.

That's probably what's going on. Like I said in my original post, I had the sensitivity at the darkest setting. I'm not a very experienced welder, so I'm probably long-arcing at times.

Thanks again
~billyO

 

[Matt Rochester]

That's probably what's going on. Like I said in my original post, I had the sensitivity at the darkest setting. I'm not a very experienced welder, so I'm probably long-arcing at times.

Thanks again
~billyO

Sensitivity and darkness are 2 different settings. Sensitivity is how much light it take to trigger the helmet to darken. The darkness is usually a dial that says “shade”.

 

[skillgannon]

14 is much darker than needed for stick. If you can adjust the sensitivity that's what you want. The other thing is your outer lense may be dirty. the sensors are little squares outside of the view lense. Make sure nothing is blocking the light to these. If everything else is ok then it could be how you hold your head. Those sensors have to sense the arc and depending you settings something obstructing line of sight may slow how fast they trigger. Standard settings sense the arc and trigger before the light and tig settings can be more sensitive but do need enough light to trigger and can allow you to to see a flare if not in line of sight. At least that how the hoods that I have used work. As was mentioned check your battery . If a hood as been left on near something like a forklift flashing light it can trigger the hood and drain the battery very quickly because there isn't enough light for the solar panels to work.

 

[Ken H>]

Don't you LOVE those auto darkening hoods? I used my first one back in late '90's. Due to cost didn't get one for several years - boy, I'd sure hate to go back to the old style!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Like all said, set the sensitivity to max, and the shade to 11-12. Some have a delay setting, too. If so, set it to the shortest time.

Most today have "solar" power. This is actually solar powered battery charging. If your hood sits in a dark shed, or on a dark shelf all the time, it will need the batteries recharged. An hour or two in sunlight ( facing the sun) will take care of that.

I place a small bright light (old halogen desk lamp) near the work and can see the placement of the tip when striking the arc much better, especially when welding at night.

You don't have your age in your profile, but the older you get, the less well you see in darkness ... or through dark welding lenses.

 

[Geoff Flato]

I had a Lincoln helmet that did this. It ended the electronics were crapping out and it shortly stopped working all together.
Its not going to hurt your eyes the way not using a helmet would (they have the same UV and IR protection regardless of if they darken or not) but I'd still be buying a new helmet if I was you.

 

[weo]

Thank you all for the replies. The causes that make the most sense in my situation are:
1. Long-arcing. I am a self-taught stick welder with an old Onan AC generator/welder (although it works good so operator error is most likely).
2. Dirty Lens - Even though I wipe off the lens cover before each use, I'm still using the original lens cover from when I got it a number of years ago because up until recently I haven't used the welder regularly.
3. Poorly charged batteries - The helmet spends most of the time hanging in my shop and again, not getting regular or long-time use so the batteries may need a boost. Unfortunately we don't get much sun these months here on the west side of the cascades. I may have to let it sit in front of a halogen light for a few hours.

Sensitivity and darkness are 2 different settings.

Thanks for clarifying, Matt. I thought about that right after I posted my comment. Unfortunately, my helmet has only one changeable setting, the darkness.

You don't have your age in your profile, but the older you get, the less well you see in darkness ... or through dark welding lenses.

I'm getting to that age (if already haven't passed it, having to purchase my first pair of readers last year). My reason for posting this question instead of dealing with it like I tended to do when younger, was to try to avoid the quickening of the visual decline.

Again, thank you all for the info and suggestions. I'll work on my technique.
~billyO

 

[Mahoney]

The lithium batteries in these helmets don't last forever, even with the solar charging sooner or later the batteries won't take a charge. If the batteries are replaceable, try changing them.

 

[stezann]

I have had the same issue with my helmet.
Solar charged, but sealed battery case, not accessible/replaceable. As it started going funky i have left it in the sun and get away for a couple of months, still getting flashes, then i bought another one with replaceable batteries...that is what i recommend to do.
As soon as i started welding with the new one i realized how junky was the previous unit since the beginning...NOW I CAN SEE!!!!
By the way...
Sensitivity: how little light switches the lenses. Put this setting up so your environment darkens the lens, and then a bit lower just to make them clear again.
Shade: The higher shade, still allowing you to see your workpiece and not only the arc.
Delay: it is the time required for the lens to brighten after the arc turns off...when welding at high amperage it allows the glow of the steel to cool a bit...white glowing steel can burn as well, and the delay will take care of this issue.
Also, if your arc jumps a bit it will cover, leaving the lens dark.

I suggest a trick...have a little copperwire "nest" between the jaws of your ground clamp and the workpiece...it'll increase the points of contact, perfect ground!!