Whacha Been Up To......

Nice work from everyone lately. Bill, I got my scabbard pattern from Springfield Leather. Here’s my latest project. .45 magazine holster. This was not as easy as it looks. Hand sewn. The shape made it impossible for me to use the Cobra. This is for a co-worker. It’s got some flaws but I think it turned out ok.

Jon5D010F95-C698-42BD-A560-B9B525D2169F.jpeg22F94316-5D0F-4982-B570-4A0525F92BB4.jpeg2525E2A6-17BD-400D-BFCF-6EDC1C0FDEC7.jpeg
 
JonBishop said:
Nice work from everyone lately. Bill, I got my scabbard pattern from Springfield Leather. Here’s my latest project. .45 magazine holster. This was not as easy as it looks. Hand sewn. The shape made it impossible for me to use the Cobra. This is for a co-worker. It’s got some flaws but I think it turned out ok.

JonView attachment 1413915View attachment 1413916View attachment 1413917
Click to expand...

Thanks :) I’ll grab one while getting some thread and needles :)
Looking good ! I like it :)
 
As some may know, I am fond of swivel style sheaths for fixed blades, just handier for me. I use a copper rivet to attach a belt loop to a stationary piece of leather attached to the sheath. I recently got this Real Steel fixed blade, a stunner for me, and the belt loop it came with was like it was made from cut offs of car seat belts, very flexible and no doubt strong but floppy. So, I removed the one it came with and made up a swivel piece to mount to the kydex sheath. Works much better and while it doesn't have a restraining strap, which was mounted the wrong way for right hand carry anyways...the kydex has very strong retention and I do not have any worries of it coming free while carrying it.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr


Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

G2
 
JonBishop said:
Nice work from everyone lately. Bill, I got my scabbard pattern from Springfield Leather. Here’s my latest project. .45 magazine holster. This was not as easy as it looks. Hand sewn. The shape made it impossible for me to use the Cobra. This is for a co-worker. It’s got some flaws but I think it turned out ok.

JonView attachment 1413915View attachment 1413916View attachment 1413917
Click to expand...

Outside of the tab for the stud was there something else ya couldn't stitch on the Cobra? Use a 1/2" chisel to make a slit on the up hill side of your hole for the stud. One end goes into the hole. This will allow the stud to be used easier with less wear and tear on the leather.

u87iJbk.jpg


The Europeans were smarter with these studs than we were. Many of their old military mag pouches had the stud on the flap and then a strap or tab that came up from the bottom to fasten into the stud. Some really high end stuff done by Purdey etc still does this. I'm gonna do this for my Rangeflap holster because it allows the quickness of the stud release of the flap over the weapon but still with the adjustability of the buckle. So in this pic imagine a stud where the strap goes into the flap. Buckle and strap in the same place and the top end of the strap has a hole and slit for the stud. Quick release and still have the adjustability of the buckle.

vYIb0tt.jpg


This is important as one of the great things about the Rangeflap is that its built by frame size of the gun and so will fit a large variety of handguns not just the one its built for. With a strap and a stud down where the buckle is you loose that adjustability its built for one gun. Stud on the flap and you are good to go.

See done this way and only this Tokarov fits this holster, nothing else:

Jdu4kjp.jpg


Pretty nice work, keep on keeping on.


Gary W. Graley said:
As some may know, I am fond of swivel style sheaths for fixed blades, just handier for me. I use a copper rivet to attach a belt loop to a stationary piece of leather attached to the sheath. I recently got this Real Steel fixed blade, a stunner for me, and the belt loop it came with was like it was made from cut offs of car seat belts, very flexible and no doubt strong but floppy. So, I removed the one it came with and made up a swivel piece to mount to the kydex sheath. Works much better and while it doesn't have a restraining strap, which was mounted the wrong way for right hand carry anyways...the kydex has very strong retention and I do not have any worries of it coming free while carrying it.

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr


Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

G2
Click to expand...

Thats really cool Gary!


brewbear said:
https://flic.kr/p/2jEh938
https://flic.kr/p/2jEkyxh
This is what I've been trying. Please keep in mind this is the first time I took a crack at leathercraft. Many thanks to all of you for the tutorials.
Any and all comments and criticism are welcome, after all I always tell people I train there are no mistakes when starting, just learning opportunities.
Click to expand...

Those look really good for some first work. What questions do you have?
 
Lorien said:
a few finishing touches and I'ma call this batch done!
2hq8WgC.jpg
Click to expand...


Are you still making your own rivets or are those store bought? They make a tool that will dome the rivets (not the rivet setter with that domed area, a different tool). Help that edge of the rivet to get away from the edge of the sheath. I got cut pretty good years ago on one of those rivets sticking out a hair on something. Very nice work by the way, real nice!
 
these ones are manufactured, I'll only make those rivets if the sheath is too thick for the ready made kind.
Now that I've been putting in some hours, I'm starting to figure out what kind of tools I want to add to the box, and the limits of some of the tools I'm using- what you've suggested sounds really good. In fact, I may have something which will do the job, just gotta figure out how to make it work

I really appreciate your compliment, thank you so much!
 
thanks very much!

I think I might do a sheath for the LC as my next batch project
 
Horsewright said:
Those look really good for some first work. What questions do you have?
Click to expand...
Thank you, sir. First things first, what thickness leather would be most commonly used for the types of sheaths you make (in the other tutorial you posted), I used 3-4 leather. What thickness leather is most versatile for smaller sheaths and such (sorry, not sure what else I might want to make at this time) but a general purpose use. What stamps would you recommend, the basket weave one from Hobby Lobby is not really "cutting it".
I am still trying to find a couple of hours to regrind the edge on my inexpensive round knife, I will try to do it using a Wicked Edge guided system since I can't sharpen freehand to save my life.
 
it's always exciting to finish the gluing! Got this lil guy stuck up this afternoon. This sheath has some brutal mistakes already, hopefully I don't totally crap the bed! Only one way to find out
e2ipcPY.jpg
 
brewbear said:
Thank you, sir. First things first, what thickness leather would be most commonly used for the types of sheaths you make (in the other tutorial you posted), I used 3-4 leather. What thickness leather is most versatile for smaller sheaths and such (sorry, not sure what else I might want to make at this time) but a general purpose use. What stamps would you recommend, the basket weave one from Hobby Lobby is not really "cutting it".
I am still trying to find a couple of hours to regrind the edge on my inexpensive round knife, I will try to do it using a Wicked Edge guided system since I can't sharpen freehand to save my life.
Click to expand...

My favorite leather for that sheath is 5/7 oz horse hide in a soft rolled. Lot of variation in the horse hide butts so ya n ever know what you are gonna get. if I was using cowhide I'd probably go with 4/5 oz. Good leather is worth the price. Can't stress enough the difference that quality leather will make on a project.

For tooling stamps Barry King stamps are hard to beat.
 
Hi, Dave thanks. I pre-formed the front piece in a molding “jig” I made. I didn’t have enough edge for the walking foot to hit the leather. I couldn’t turn it around because it was pre-formed. The stud hole is slotted, it’s hard to see in the picture. I used a stud hole punch on it. The slot is running down though. It seemed to work properly to me. I hope it doesn’t cause problems down the road.

Jon
 
Horsewright said:
My favorite leather for that sheath is 5/7 oz horse hide in a soft rolled. Lot of variation in the horse hide butts so ya n ever know what you are gonna get. if I was using cowhide I'd probably go with 4/5 oz. Good leather is worth the price. Can't stress enough the difference that quality leather will make on a project.

For tooling stamps Barry King stamps are hard to beat.
Click to expand...
Soft rolled horse hide and a hand full of Barry King stamps ordered, now the waiting starts. Thankfully I still have a couple of square feet worth of leather to practice on.
 
Made a quick hidden tang style puko (first time trying one of these, and only my 4th knife).

15n20

First wood core sheath I've ever attempted. Learned a few things. I used a scrap piece of leather that would not have worked for a non wood core sheath.

The slips are made of the same leather and I expect the leather to get darker.

There are some smudges on the leather...it has been in my junk/camp closet for well over 10 years.
zCXmKCe.jpg



I had to use my free hand groover. . In hind sight, I should have hit the edge with my 2x72 sander after glue up, and gotten an edge to follow, instead of freehanding the grooves.
cku9xfo.jpg⁰
 
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JonBishop said:
Hi, Dave thanks. I pre-formed the front piece in a molding “jig” I made. I didn’t have enough edge for the walking foot to hit the leather. I couldn’t turn it around because it was pre-formed. The stud hole is slotted, it’s hard to see in the picture. I used a stud hole punch on it. The slot is running down though. It seemed to work properly to me. I hope it doesn’t cause problems down the road.

Jon
Click to expand...

There is a holster foot that will allow ya to sew close for that application.Its designed to assemble pre molded parts. I don't use one as I mold after assembly. Mag pouches too. This leather man sheath is basically a single mag pouch ya just change your stitching lines on the inside. That allows ya to make it basically to any mag.:

CaSFPuZ.jpg


For a Shield. While a different two mag pattern the concepts are the same:

Vgb9Tys.jpg
 
Hey, Dave. The reason I made the jig and pre-molded was because I didn’t like the profile for this particular piece. I wanted a flat back on it. My first two attempts didn’t give me that. I do like your mag holster in the second pic. Also, how did you keep your tooling from fading out on that leather-man’s tool holster? It looks so crisp for being wet molded. Did you mold strictly on the back side? I remember the tutorial you made on a pancake sheath. I guess the same rules apply? A link to that thread would help. It’s not showing up in my searches.

Thanks, Jon
 
Bigfattyt said:
Made a quick hidden tang style puko (first time trying one of these, and only my 4th knife).

15n20



First wood core sheath I've ever attempted. Learned a few things. I used a scrap piece of leather that would not have worked for a non wood core sheath.

The slips are made of the same leather and I expect the leather to get darker.

There are some smudges on the leather...it has been in my junk/camp closet for well over 10 years.
zCXmKCe.jpg



I had to use my free hand groover. I
cku9xfo.jpg⁰
Click to expand...
I like it. A wood core leather wrap is on my to do list.

Jon
 
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