Whacha Been Up To......

Macan said:
Thank you guys!
Dave, I agree with You for rawhide, but I cannot find here rawhide, and I have one smaller piece of naturall leather, which I use for bracelets, and many time wanted to do interweave for whips but...
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Very nice work Macan!

Bltien said:
Finally used the Tippmann Boss I picked up over the summer on some real projects. Some kinks need to be worked out yet and I probably should spend some extra time on the fine details, but I’m loving the time saved compared to hand stitching. Especially when I have to remake a sheath because Of poor retention (the horizontal one lol).
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Nice work! Thanks for posting.
 
tiguy7 said:
View attachment 1473840 View attachment 1473841 I have question for the leather guys. I posed it in the Buck site, but got no reply. The Aluminum handled knives are embossed/coined in a die in a drop hammer to simulate engraving. The factory sheaths seem to have closely matching "tooling" patterns. Is it likely that these patterns are made with a giant stamp?
Thanks!
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I'm guessing roll embossing too.
 
Redmeadow Knives said:
A belt and journal cover I've been working on for the much better half. Having a sewing machine has opened me up to projects that I personally never would have considered handstitching.
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Very nice work! I use do do something with some of my knives when I was forging them. I have an old granite gravestone of a WW2 vet that they screwed up the writing on. The guy that owned the local funeral home knew I did leather work and gave it to me thinking it would be a great tooling stone. However it wasn't finished on the back side, it was too rough for tooling and the smooth finished front side had engraving on it so it wasn't gonna work either. However, the back side made a heck of an anvil when I was doing Brut de Forge finish on some of my knives. Anybody want it? Ya can come and get it. Probably weighs 250 lbs. Takes two big guys to move it.
 
Thank you Dave!
Here another one I wanted to make and try new stamp I bought. I tooled and dyed but when I tried to fold leather, it was so dried that it cracked in midlle section at the end. after that I have greased leather and then folded wnd stitched, after I have took out a piece of leather where it cracked, so next time I will first fold an thhen dye


 
Macan said:
Thank you Dave!
Here another one I wanted to make and try new stamp I bought. I tooled and dyed but when I tried to fold leather, it was so dried that it cracked in midlle section at the end. after that I have greased leather and then folded wnd stitched, after I have took out a piece of leather where it cracked, so next time I will first fold an thhen dye
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Yep one of the reasons I won't dye leather. It drys out the leather and it cracks. I use to dye a lot of sheaths and I noticed they would have about half the lifetime of the un dyed sheaths under the same harsh conditions. Fold your leather while damp and the fold may need to be very wet. Tool afterwards and don't tool across the fold. Dye afterwards and then finish. Anything that I do dye gets a couple of coats of oil right after dyeing. I do have one customer who I will dye leather for. Just did this belt for him. I had bought a black belt strip of Herman Oak but they jipped me on the length and it wasn't very nice leather, (I have a love hate relationship with Herman Oak). Anyhoo I cut a belt strip of Wicket and Craig, tapered it to fit the buckle the customer sent me, (he's a retired career Army officer), tooled it, dyed, oiled it, then sewed in the lining and finished it. If he wants it black he gets it black. He has spent thousands on our work, he knows my hesitations about dyeing and the reasons for it and he's willing to live with it.

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Still hammering out 12-18 hour days. Just a few more projects to do. Here's some recents:

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Scabbards and knives shipping this morning. Two boot sheaths, two martingales and a belt yet to go.
 
Thanks Dave thats really valuable information about dyeing., thats last time I did thati n that order if I ever do that again
 
Any brand recommendations on saddle soap? I was watching some video of Paul Long finishing his edges. Fiebing's white the way to go?

As of now my edge finishing looks like (what do yall think?):
  1. Add a little quick slick and clean up with a 220 grit belt on the 2x72 to "level" the edges
  2. Add more quick slick and sand with 320
  3. Then 600 grit paper ending with strokes all in the same direction
  4. Hit it with a little brown pro oil dye and lit sit for a few min
  5. Bees wax and burnish with a hand burnisher
I like the quick slick, but it feels to me that the saddle soap would be easier and faster to apply with my hands. I'm using a q-tip to apply the quick slick currently out of the little bottle!
 
Really they both work. I use glycerin saddle soap on larger projects and tend to use the Quik Slik on smaller, thinner leathers. My experience is that it takes less pressure to get a decent edge with the Quik Slik making it simpler for thin edges. I dye most of my edges and, to my eyes, the Quik Slik does make it harder for the dye to be uniform, hence the glycerin on the larger pieces where it is more easily noticed.
FYI, I have recently started using a Japanese product called Tokonole that works even on chrome tanned, soft leathers. It is a cream that is put on sparingly and then burnished. It does block dye so they have some colored versions I have not used. I find it most useful on items like watch bands and minimalist wallets with thin leathers. I suppose it would work on larger pieces as well but I have not tried it.
Randy
 
J. Keeton said:
Any brand recommendations on saddle soap? I was watching some video of Paul Long finishing his edges. Fiebing's white the way to go?

As of now my edge finishing looks like (what do yall think?):
  1. Add a little quick slick and clean up with a 220 grit belt on the 2x72 to "level" the edges
  2. Add more quick slick and sand with 320
  3. Then 600 grit paper ending with strokes all in the same direction
  4. Hit it with a little brown pro oil dye and lit sit for a few min
  5. Bees wax and burnish with a hand burnisher
I like the quick slick, but it feels to me that the saddle soap would be easier and faster to apply with my hands. I'm using a q-tip to apply the quick slick currently out of the little bottle!
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I keep it in a larger mouthed jar and then use a foam brush to apply. Works good for me. We do power burnish and do some big projects. Take a set of reins for instance, there is 384 lineal inches to rub. On a breast collar/martingale there is 330 inches. We don't dye edges.
 
Robber58 said:
I actually have two versions of that sheath. Here is a picture of one in work for a Busse with version 2. It has a lock rotating around a pivot (a modified Chicago screw).

The first version I made (and still make for some knives) has the lock built into the welt . There is a steel pin embedded in the lock area to maintain stiffness. That it will provide some security without the strap and you can just push the knife in and it will lock. The disadvantage is that it is very time consuming to build and not adjustable. You either get it right or make it again.

Yours to use if you wish.
Randy
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Hi , just FYI this Busse and sheath in pic above is for sale in Busse exchange thread. Just thought you might be curious to see it. Sheath looks great !!!
 
In regards to the Fiebing's saddle soap.... from the source:

What is the difference between the Yellow and White Saddle Soap?

  • Traditionally the yellow paste was for use on saddles and tack, the white paste for use on shoes and boots. That said, it was more for the consumer peace of mind as no color is imparted on the leather from the yellow paste. Think of bar soap you use on your hands, sometimes it is white, other times yellow. Neither will transfer color and both will clean and condition just the same.

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Anyone know what this "speed beveler" is called now days and where to get one? Also saw it in the Paul Long video and can't seem to find it online.

 
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J. Keeton said:
In regards to the Fiebing's saddle soap.... from the source:

What is the difference between the Yellow and White Saddle Soap?

  • Traditionally the yellow paste was for use on saddles and tack, the white paste for use on shoes and boots. That said, it was more for the consumer peace of mind as no color is imparted on the leather from the yellow paste. Think of bar soap you use on your hands, sometimes it is white, other times yellow. Neither will transfer color and both will clean and condition just the same.

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Anyone know what this "speed beveler" is called now days and where to get one? Also saw it in the Paul Long video and can't seem to find it online.

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Call Paul Long, he might have one for sale
 
Anyone know what this "speed beveler" is called now days and where to get one? Also saw it in the Paul Long video and can't seem to find it online.


Springfield Leather sells them They call It Craftmaster Plastic Edge Beveler.
Randy
 
duramax said:
Hi , just FYI this Busse and sheath in pic above is for sale in Busse exchange thread. Just thought you might be curious to see it. Sheath looks great !!!
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I made that and several more for a forum member named RossMo in Alaska. I had never made that design for anything except my own knives but he talked me into it. Great guy.
Randy
 
Robber58 said:
I made that and several more for a forum member named RossMo in Alaska. I had never made that design for anything except my own knives but he talked me into it. Great guy.
Randy
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Small world !!!! I know that fellow Busse Hog !! He’s a great guy , had a couple deals with him. We still connect this time of year :)
 
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