WhaT are the best budget ,less expensive Laguiole knives to get?

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lonestar1979

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Theres few less expensive Laguiole knife brands made in France under 80$,and some that cost more.Which ones are inexpensive but still well made?
 
I have one of the Robert David Laguioles with a black horn handle. I consider it to be a well made knife with one exception. The edge contacts the backspring if I let the blade close under its own force. It's the only Laguiole that I have any experience with but I think I remember reading that it's a common problem with the pattern in general. I could probably sharpen it down and eliminate the problem but I don't use the knife so I haven't bothered. Otherwise it's a well made knife.

I paid $45.50 for it at Grand Prairie Knives back in 2007 but of course, they cost a little more now.
 
I got a Forge De Laguiole a few years ago, I think I paid about 80.00 for it... great knife.
Got it from Worldknives.com
 
Railsplitter said:
I have one of the Robert David Laguioles with a black horn handle. I consider it to be a well made knife with one exception. The edge contacts the backspring if I let the blade close under its own force. It's the only Laguiole that I have any experience with but I think I remember reading that it's a common problem with the pattern in general. I could probably sharpen it down and eliminate the problem but I don't use the knife so I haven't bothered. Otherwise it's a well made knife.

I paid $45.50 for it at Grand Prairie Knives back in 2007 but of course, they cost a little more now.
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I've had a couple different Laguiole's. To my knowledge, blade slap is indeed a problem. The only one I know of that doesn't have this issue are the ones made by Fontenille Pataud. They specifically designed a stop pin to keep the blade from contacting the spring. Very well made knives but unfortunately out of the OP's price range.
 
I'm sure jolipapa will be able to make suggestions when he sees this.:cool:

The fundamental problem with cheaper Lags or 'kits' is that they are likely not the authentic French thing,:eek: more often than not, versions from Pakistan or China. Lags tend to be artisan made or costly versions from Fontanelle-Pataud et al. If you look at Renaud Aubry knives you might be able to get a hand made one for a bit more than the OP's price limit.

As for the blade hitting the backspring, well with respect, it's not a problem as such if you know how to handle and use a Lag. The blade has no kick, so yes it will snap against the spring IF you like to let it whack shut to listen to the 'talk' Just don't do it! :eek::D Guide it back. French knives are often quite easy to open and hard to shut, so they demand careful closing. The positive of not having a kick is that you will not get blade tip being exposed from the liners after repeated sharpening. Fontenille-Pataud do have the backstop for those who must let their blade thwack back into place without harm, they also have a very clever lock back on some versions too.

Thanks, Will
 
There is few French makers where I can get laguiole under 100$,How is Laguiole de Aubrac , have found couple of those around 80us.Are they better than Robert David,or G.david, theres few other ones that I cant remember now.Theyre all made of 12c27 and I like that steel.Fontenille Pataud ones with a lock are amazing.
 
First, what size are you looking for? it goes from 9cm , 10, 11, 12+cm, price varies accordingly. Then do you need a corkscrew and/or punch? 1, 2 or zero bolster? Filework or not?
Another price factor is the bee, welded or forged with the spring (on higher end usually).

As Will said, most unexpensive come from Asia, but they are cheaply made. Some low priced tagged "made in France", are in fact assembled with Chinese parts (I suspect those stamped "440"- standard stainless is 12C27).

Laguiole en Aubrac are good quality, but seem quite over your budget. In your price range, I would opt for Le Fidèle, or Calmels (the origins), both old established, sturdy and good looking.
Personally I would follow Will's advice and go see R Aubry, slightly over the budget, but with an obvious edge on the price/quality ratio,you get a 100% handmade. Another option is Arto,just a tad over your budget, also one of my favorite makers.
I sent you a few adresses in your pm.
 
Will Power said:
The positive of not having a kick is that you will not get blade tip being exposed from the liners after repeated sharpening.

Thanks, Will
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I'm trying to understand the mechanics of this but I can't wrap my head around it. I don't understand how the absence of a kick allows the blade to sit lower after repeated sharpenings. Admittedly, I haven't used my French knives enough to notice this although I do have a couple where the blade tip sits pretty high. I have noticed the absence of the kick and did wonder how I would have to modify the blade if the tip did become exposed. It might be hard to explain, but I'll take your word for it. You always have good advice!

I'll make a third recommendation for Renaud Aubry. I have a few of his knives and they are very well done. If you can spring for the extra money, it's worth it IMO.
 
draggat said:
I've had a couple different Laguiole's. To my knowledge, blade slap is indeed a problem. The only one I know of that doesn't have this issue are the ones made by Fontenille Pataud. They specifically designed a stop pin to keep the blade from contacting the spring. Very well made knives but unfortunately out of the OP's price range.
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To the best of my knowledge, blade slap is a problem with traditionals in general. Sometimes the tip slaps the spring. Sometimes the edge slaps the hump around the spring pin. On rare occasion, the blade actually rests on the spring. Case, GEC, Rough Rider, new, vintage, almost across the board, can suffer this affliction, unless very specific design functions are implemented, such as an internal stop pin, are implemented. To my knowledge, very few companies do this. Some AG Russel traditionals implement this. Off the top of my head, I can only think of one other company, that doesn't do many traditionals at all, that does this, since it's also afflicts lockbacks sometimes.

This is such a prevalent problem, I consider it a general fault of traditionals unless very specific consideration is taken in design to keep it from happening. Which seems to be a rare occurrence. Back slap is a big gripe I have with traditionals in general. I'm always surprised at how traditional knife enthusiasts are so accepting of this flaw.
 
shecky said:
To the best of my knowledge, blade slap is a problem with traditionals in general. Sometimes the tip slaps the spring. Sometimes the edge slaps the hump around the spring pin. On rare occasion, the blade actually rests on the spring. Case, GEC, Rough Rider, new, vintage, almost across the board, can suffer this affliction, unless very specific design functions are implemented, such as an internal stop pin, are implemented. To my knowledge, very few companies do this. Some AG Russel traditionals implement this. Off the top of my head, I can only think of one other company, that doesn't do many traditionals at all, that does this, since it's also afflicts lockbacks sometimes.

This is such a prevalent problem, I consider it a general fault of traditionals unless very specific consideration is taken in design to keep it from happening. Which seems to be a rare occurrence. Back slap is a big gripe I have with traditionals in general. I'm always surprised at how traditional knife enthusiasts are so accepting of this flaw.
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Dang, you've had some serious bad luck. I feel fortunate to say that my experience has been the exact opposite.

I've had literally hundreds of traditional knives pass through my hands. If I would have kept them all I would currently own about 200 traditional knives. Among those, I've encountered maybe three or four with this problem.
 
I HAVE found laguiole en aubrac at a good price,just the regular without corkscrew,and probably thats my best bet,its 11cm handle
 
draggat said:
I'm trying to understand the mechanics of this but I can't wrap my head around it. I don't understand how the absence of a kick allows the blade to sit lower after repeated sharpenings. Admittedly, I haven't used my French knives enough to notice this although I do have a couple where the blade tip sits pretty high. I have noticed the absence of the kick and did wonder how I would have to modify the blade if the tip did become exposed. It might be hard to explain, but I'll take your word for it. You always have good advice!

I'll make a third recommendation for Renaud Aubry. I have a few of his knives and they are very well done. If you can spring for the extra money, it's worth it IMO.
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Thanks. I could be wrong of course but my conjecture is based on a) A David Lag I've had and used a lot since I got it in 1990, French knives usually arrive sharp and thin ground so I admit, heavy sharpening has been unnecessary just stropping but after nearly 27 years (oh God...) no tip is appearing b) the absence of kick means the blade, and the type of blade, sits down lower in the frame anyway. Nevertheless, the thing is you should not let the blade on a Lag thwack back in any case, it is not supposed to support this. Horses for courses etc.
 
Will Power said:
As for the blade hitting the backspring, well with respect, it's not a problem as such if you know how to handle and use a Lag. The blade has no kick, so yes it will snap against the spring IF you like to let it whack shut to listen to the 'talk' Just don't do it! :eek::D Guide it back.
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No, no, no. Let it talk! Smack shut! Impress!

What's a little middling, middled ding on a blade on which you'll primarily be using the foremost portion...?

The story I received with my Laguiole, anecdotal or apocryphal, is that the head of the table SNAPS the knife shut to signify when the meal was over. Sonic authority, that.

I like it. :)

~ P.
 
Or you could just wedge a piece of wooden match stick down in the frame! :thumb up:

Or cut a section of rubber O ring to go down there.

:D
 
jackknife said:
Or you could just wedge a piece of wooden match stick down in the frame! :thumb up:

Or cut a section of rubber O ring to go down there.

:D
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I usually cut a wedge from a synthetic wine cork. Works great. I just wish I didn't have to do it.
 
I won't argue about the Lag's absence of kick and supposed consequences, I respect all the opinions and have seen sufficiently enough to make my own about a pattern first made in 1829.
Now, I would be pleased to see a picture of a dented knife? The only one I know I received from Canal Street last year... :)
 
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