What brand of drill bits do you recommend?

S

Sprayman

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Nov 15, 2014
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I've been making knives for less than one year now and am having a blast, thanks, in no small part, to all the help if received on Blade Forums. So, my latest question is about drill bits. The big brand bits that I've purchased at places like Lowe's and Home Depot tend to wear out pretty quickly, even though they say they're made for steel. Is this a common problem that I should just accept, or am I buying the wrong type of bits? Any information you could share would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Geron
 
Here are the main things you need(IMO) concerning drill bits:

1. Use the proper drill speed for the material/hole size you're drilling. You can find a charts online via a quick google search.

2. Use lube/cutting oil

3. Feed the drill properly. Some quick searching will gleam proper technique. The drill has to be fed hard enough to bite into the steel. If not you could work harden the steel.

4. Learn to sharpen bits, make a sharpening jig, or get a Drill Doctor. I got a Drill Doctor for $15 at an estate sale and love the thing. It's saved me a ton on bits.

5. Cheap jobber bits will work fine on non-hardened steel, as long as you use the above info. That being said, cobalt bits aren't that much more.
 
Everything he said.

But beyond that...

I have found that dewalt makes a really good TiNi gold bit with pilot.

Disclaimer: I build cars, not knives.
 
Norseman drills are USA made and present a very good value. They come in Huot indexes. Learn to sharpen and you will,be set for a very long time.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
Here are the main things you need(IMO) concerning drill bits:

1. Use the proper drill speed for the material/hole size you're drilling. You can find a charts online via a quick google search.

2. Use lube/cutting oil

3. Feed the drill properly. Some quick searching will gleam proper technique. The drill has to be fed hard enough to bite into the steel. If not you could work harden the steel.

4. Learn to sharpen bits, make a sharpening jig, or get a Drill Doctor. I got a Drill Doctor for $15 at an estate sale and love the thing. It's saved me a ton on bits.

5. Cheap jobber bits will work fine on non-hardened steel, as long as you use the above info. That being said, cobalt bits aren't that much more.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of the good advice. Would something like WD-40 work for the lube, or should I get oil specially made for just such a purpose? I've seen the oil in those little white cans.
 
SVTFreak said:
Everything he said.

But beyond that...

I have found that dewalt makes a really good TiNi gold bit with pilot.

Disclaimer: I build cars, not knives.
Click to expand...

Well, if you build cars, I'd wager that you've drilled through steel once or twice.
 
PT Doc said:
Norseman drills are USA made and present a very good value. They come in Huot indexes. Learn to sharpen and you will,be set for a very long time.
Click to expand...

Norseman drills. Thanks. I'll look into those. It sounds like sharpening is the way to go, which is fine, because it gives me yet another reason to tinker with tools:D
 
Sprayman said:
Thanks for all of the good advice. Would something like WD-40 work for the lube, or should I get oil specially made for just such a purpose? I've seen the oil in those little white cans.
Click to expand...

I'd use specific cutting oil. It's cheap and you can get it at big box stores or hardware stores.
 
Yes, I like the Norseman bits, too and they even stand up well drilling titanium. I do not sharpen bits unless they are carbide. This is done on a disc diamond wheel. I buy M.A. Ford in these.
Frank
 
I use Rapid Tap cutting oil and it seems to work well.

Agree on Norseman for high quality drill bits.
 
Sprayman said:
Well, if you build cars, I'd wager that you've drilled through steel once or twice.
Click to expand...

Just a couple times hehe

Disclaimer was put because I don't know about hardness of steels and such. Stainless can be a pain i know. Most steel in cars is mild and unhardened. Drills easily. I have tried to drill through stainless tubing recently and destroyed a bit. But I was drilling too fast and it was 1/2" tubing beat flat. Probably wouldn't done a lot better on the press.
 
It is hard to go wrong with any American made twist drills but, for knifemaking and the wide variety of materials, cobalt drills have a real advantage. They have a higher heat resistance than standard HSS. I buy all of mine from Suncoast Precision Tools. I don't waste my time sharpening anything smaller than 1/4" because the cost of the drills is so low. I use 3in1 oil as a cutting lubricant on the drill press almost exclusively. The lubricant, in this scenario, is just helping to clear chips by lubricating the flutes which reduces frictional heat from rubbing. Good drilling technique includes choosing the correct speed, feed pressure and pecking to clear chips when necessary.

Bob
 
strongest longest lasting bits ive ever used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E...+drill+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=41qT0iP2rIL&ref=plSrch


GoldEdge Cryogenic Drill Bits are designed to drill through work hardening grades of stainless steel and other hard to drill materials. They are built to take on the most demanding jobs in the construction, maintenance and metal working industries. GoldEdge drill bits are subjected to a unique patented cryogenic treatment process that alters the tool's molecular structure, creating a drill bit that boasts increased wear resistance, greater torsion strength and faster cutting speeds than traditional high speed steel drill bits. The features include a 135 degree split point for instant drill centering and a 3-flat shank that eliminates chuck slippage in hand held drills
 
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RangerBobTX said:
It is hard to go wrong with any American made twist drills but, for knifemaking and the wide variety of materials, cobalt drills have a real advantage. They have a higher heat resistance than standard HSS. I buy all of mine from Suncoast Precision Tools. I don't waste my time sharpening anything smaller than 1/4" because the cost of the drills is so low. I use 3in1 oil as a cutting lubricant on the drill press almost exclusively. The lubricant, in this scenario, is just helping to clear chips by lubricating the flutes which reduces frictional heat from rubbing. Good drilling technique includes choosing the correct speed, feed pressure and pecking to clear chips when necessary.

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks, Bob.

By the way, I recently started following your thread on the knife you're currently crafting. Top notch stuff! You're a real artist. It's good for a newbie like me to watch the full process. I can't wait to see it completed.

Geron
 
scubasteve4sq said:
strongest longest lasting bits ive ever used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E...+drill+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=41qT0iP2rIL&ref=plSrch


GoldEdge Cryogenic Drill Bits are designed to drill through work hardening grades of stainless steel and other hard to drill materials. They are built to take on the most demanding jobs in the construction, maintenance and metal working industries. GoldEdge drill bits are subjected to a unique patented cryogenic treatment process that alters the tool's molecular structure, creating a drill bit that boasts increased wear resistance, greater torsion strength and faster cutting speeds than traditional high speed steel drill bits. The features include a 135 degree split point for instant drill centering and a 3-flat shank that eliminates chuck slippage in hand held drills
Click to expand...

Thanks, Scubasteve. I'll look into those.
 
they really are tough as nails, we use them where i work to drill through 304 stainless angle iron for pipe support hangers and the like. they last forever.
 
You need a set of cryogenically treated cobalt alloy drill bits. They're not so easy to find, they're expensive, but they're great for drilling hard metals.
 
".....Would something like WD-40 work for the lube, or should I get oil specially made for just such a purpose?...."

Just an FYI, but WD-40 is a rust protectant....not a lubricant. I know it is often recommended as such, but it is a very poor lubricant for any machining task. Read the front of the can....no where does it say the word lubricant. I like Moly-D for cutting, tapping, and drilling.
 
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