What did you rehang today?

I can agree with all of this.

I can also post some pictures where the end of a hammer or hatchet handle couldn't be fixed properly with reseating the wedge or where the previous owner embedded other stuff that also had to be removed before reseating- pieces of door hinge, automotive glass, keys, chunks of lawnmower blade (sharp part down), etc.

I wasn't picking on you at all, apologises if my post came across that way. ;)
I've seen a few hangs here that would be a much better & safer if steel wedged, as I say especially in smaller eyes.

Funnily the last time I asked here about the opposition to steel wedges the reply soon mentioned nails, screws, & I think even keys. We all know that's real bodging & I'm not sure why it's mentioned? Day & night difference between a decent barbed wedge & shouldn't be confused with one, even plain steel wedges are sub-par in my opinion.
 
There was a post on here a few years back that explained most or all of TT nomenclature, TB, TH, TF, etc. Perhaps Steve Tall remembers.
Maybe this one:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/true-temper-flint-edge-roofers-hatchet.1463963/

But the mystery, for me at least, isn't the TB 2 part . . .
. . .Except mine is a TB 2.
Yours is a TB 2 F.
Do you know what the difference is ?
. . . it's the "F" after. I've found at least four different dated catalog pages with TB2 hatchets, but so far no "TB2F".


Bob
 
Thanks for the info.
Could the F be for Flint Edge ?

My blade is only 4 1/4, but you can see it is cut way back compared to Agent A's.
 
Now I know this won't go down well with many but when it comes to hammers, especially smaller hammers I believe steel wedges are by far a better permanent fix as apposed to only wooden wedges, even if cross wedged, wood as well as steel is needed.
This is not the same for larger eyes like axes, that's a different matter with bigger areas.

Obviously the shaft needs to be a tight fit to begin with, but in a smaller hammer head it might only need half an inch of handle wood to be "compressed" or "spread" on the outer end of the "hourglass" shape of the eye, anything much past half way into the eye isn't needed or desirable, also a higher pressure can be exerted on the wood with a steel wedge. A decent steel barbed wedge in my opinion cannot be beaten for this.

Of the scores of old hammers I've collected when a larger eye has originally been cross wedged with wood & steel it's usually half or even all of the wooden wedge that's missing, sometimes then sadly bodged with nails & screws.

I know many complain steel barbed wedges are often hard to remove without destroying the handle, the simple fact is a hammer handle hung correctly with a steel wedge will only need a new handle when it's beyond salvation anyway so that really doesn't matter, what matters is it NOT coming out.

A correctly hung steel wedged handle can be tightened back up easily after years of use or in an area with big humidity shifts by tapping the handle (usually on a hard surface, shaft down) & re-seating the wedge a bit deeper usually using a punch then dress a little wood away as necessary, obviously this is dependent on a good shaped eye & handle fit in the first place.

Off topic slightly, there a pictures floating about of poorly fitted handles where wooden wedges are used to take up "slack", a handle should be "tap it home" tight before wedging, soft hammer useful here.

I have a panel hammer I steel wedged in 1988, now I don't abuse my tools but that hammer has seen lots of use with as far as I can remember nothing more than an oiling (whatever was around) once in a blue moon, still tight.

This is my opinion, as others rightly point out it is important for newbies reading looking for advice, it serves to balance out others opinions, which are just that, opinions not fact.
I have also noticed how easy the plastic wedges are to re tighten on the newer FSS Pulaski(or whatever they are made out of). Worked for me much like your steel wedge. Sink the head further on the handle and drive the wedge further down using a cold chisel is how I do them.

I think much of the bad rap that steel wedges get are from the steel cross wedges that manufactures and users put in with out regard or understanding of grain alignment and they cause splits in the handle. My understanding of them is that they were originally used to simply lock the wooden wedge in place. I think that reasoning has changed.
 
True, But it's sometime the case with axes as well. From time to timesome need them some don't. I start of with hammers or axes without using them, but will use them later on in life if need be.

What I don't get is the cross wedging: I see it as beautiful non the less, but it's not out necessity. I haven't used one in years, and it makes absolutely no difference. And if it does make a difference it's usually a bad hang to begin with with to much play. Or am I not seeing something something here?
A recent hammer hang I did (4 lb drilling hammer) had a noticeable hourglass shaped eye (inside). In order to fully lock the head expansion had to occur in two directions. Sure I could have whacked in a steel cross wedge like the factory does but I used wood instead. With a teardrop eye that is tightly fitted top to bottom you should only need to have unidirectional expansion but with an oval eye (mauls, sledges and hammers) it's good practice, and extra insurance, to wedge in two directions. Were a factory handle not to have a vertical kerf already cut in it I'd be inclined to do an X shape instead to the usual vertical/horizontal cross.
 
True, But it's sometime the case with axes as well. From time to timesome need them some don't. I start of with hammers or axes without using them, but will use them later on in life if need be.

What I don't get is the cross wedging: I see it as beautifull non the less, but it's not out neccesity. I haven't used one in years, and it makes absolutely no difference. And if it does make a difference it's usually a bad hang to begin with with to much play. Or am I not seeing something something here?

So that little Niagra hammer I did was for fun and a neat look. Also note that the handle was not designed to fit that eye without more material front to back. I don't think it will come off unless I want it too as it is fully support up to the ring of hourglass from the base.

Also it is a challenge to do without damage on such a small eye (only based on my experience).

Niagra Hammer
by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Here is one that the metal wedges were knocked into a handle without a kerf cut, knocking them in further would split the wood in the eye and cutting a kerf through that little bit in the front would actually destabilize the wood:

830D2222-52E2-4D8C-9429-4821860C5145.jpg


5312AF58-FC15-4CC1-9376-378BE859A808.jpg


This one was for insurance with softer handle material/wood in a larger eye:
z6vcQGB.jpg


I have a large sledge hammer that has been used like a sledge hammer and it is still tight - pine wedges.

So, "It's unnecessary in most cases" is a very accurate statement. I also think it's one of those things that you have to do several times to have them both get that sound we all know a wedge makes when it hits "home". From doing it numerous times I find it's not much harder than a properly shaped and installed single wedge. Someone asked about it here and I thought of creating a post describing what I think are some nuances to the steps involved to make sure you don't split your handle, your wedges reach all the way across in both directions, etc.

My posting crosswedged tools is not advocacy for them always being superior to a single wooden wedge or discounting the staying power of a stepped steel wedge. In fact, I think there is a short but steep learning curve and running out to try it for the first time on something nice can end in disappointment. I also might take some heat for this but I am going to say that they are much more attractive than adding a steel wedge.

I mean, we could almost say now there is twice the space to fill up with steel wedges without them even touching the handle material!

It's one more skill in the bag of tricks for salvaging those old tool handles we all enjoy.:)
 
Last edited:
There is a tree out back that needs a couple of lower branches taken off that are eye level or just a little higher than I like to swing an axe.

The handle is really neat for a reason a can't put my finger on. I dissembled it and applied BLO - it was thirsty. I've passed by these often but never used one. Ten bucks and I got a free spanner wrench lol!

I think the bolt/nut setup at the end is a "bodging" for the stay pins shearing off of that end of the blade. There is no recessed area on top at the end to assist in retaining the blade. I know tension holds them on but the lower one is recessed to keep in there. Were there different hardware styles with different makers?

Might have to order a new blade but I see mixed reviews on quality of some of them. Input?
Safety Dance by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Safety Dance by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

*No wedges ;)
 
There is a tree out back that needs a couple of lower branches taken off that are eye level or just a little higher than I like to swing an axe.

The handle is really neat for a reason a can't put my finger on. I dissembled it and applied BLO - it was thirsty. I've passed by these often but never used one. Ten bucks and I got a free spanner wrench lol!

I think the bolt/nut setup at the end is a "bodging" for the stay pins shearing off of that end of the blade. There is no recessed area on top at the end to assist in retaining the blade. I know tension holds them on but the lower one is recessed to keep in there. Were there different hardware styles with different makers?

Might have to order a new blade but I see mixed reviews on quality of some of them. Input?
Safety Dance by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Safety Dance by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

*No wedges ;)
I would try to sharpen the blade that's in it.
 
I think the bolt/nut setup at the end is a "bodging" for the stay pins shearing off of that end of the blade. There is no recessed area on top at the end to assist in retaining the blade. I know tension holds them on but the lower one is recessed to keep in there. Were there different hardware styles with different makers?

Might have to order a new blade but I see mixed reviews on quality of some of them. Input?
Safety Dance by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

Safety Dance by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr

*No wedges ;)

No matter who makes them (still only in Sweden far as I know) these brush hooks are still called "Sandviks" in Ontario. The Junior Forest Ranger provincial gov't summer program probably had too many accidents with axes and exposed blade tools so when my oldest daughter went through in 07 they had already been restricted to limbing and brush clearing with Sandviks. These were already in use for roadside clearing by Ministry of Natural Resources when I went through in 1970. It is difficult to injure yourself with one of these and they're easy to maintain. Take the blade out and sharpen it with an axe file. Previous owner of yours probably couldn't figure out how to remove the blade and broke or ground off the retaining pin and then replaced it with a nut and bolt. Both ends of the blade are supposed to have the same pin arrangement. This way you can flip them over if one end gets more wear than the other. Removing a blade merely requires you to put your weight on the butt of the handle with the front lip of the frame on something firm (or levered in a vice), sort of like releasing the drawstring on a bow. Takes about 2 seconds and new blades are inexpensive.
Sharpen 'er up and try 'er out!
 
I don't understand leaving wood proud of the heads on these heavy hammers? Why? For looks?

In the circumstances where I use a hammer like that it'd get in the way sometimes, catching & getting chipped & mashed up, also sometimes I put them down shaft sticking straigh up (mainly when forging) so they're really easy to grab again, can't do that when wood is sticking out.
 
I don't understand leaving wood proud of the heads on these heavy hammers? Why? For looks?

In the circumstances where I use a hammer like that it'd get in the way sometimes, catching & getting chipped & mashed up, also sometimes I put them down shaft sticking straigh up (mainly when forging) so they're really easy to grab again, can't do that when wood is sticking out.
No one ever said you had to do that! Factory hangs certainly didn't. Leaving a small amount exposed (1/4" tops) means that specific area is not compressed by the wedge (against the sides of the eye) nor is the wedge compressed to the same degree outside the eye. This 'furring over' is cheap insurance against having a head fly off, and better yet it enables you to get at the wedge (via chipping, chiselling or sawing away the exposed haft) should it ever need to come out without 'writing off' the handle.
I used sledges to make a living at one time and I'll be the first to admit to maintaining flush eyes for the sake of being able to stand those tools upright on floors. Axes and mauls lean no matter what you do! And I wasn't immune to driving in steel wedges once it became obvious the half life of any given handle had been reached. Off season new handles never started life with metal wedges though. Chamfering the eye opening makes a difference too.
 
Back
Top