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What did you rehang today?

Discussion in 'Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet Forum' started by Irongun324, May 1, 2013.

  1. AaronGP

    AaronGP Basic Member Basic Member

    118
    Jul 19, 2014
    Here's a closeup of the maker's mark on the one I got. The pattern looks very much like the Simonds you link to.

    [​IMG]
     
    junkenstien, A17, Meek1 and 8 others like this.
  2. Square_peg

    Square_peg Gold Member Gold Member

    Feb 1, 2012
    A minimum order at the time was 10 dozen handles. But they needed to meet my spec before I would place an order.
     
    A17, Fmont and Yankee Josh like this.
  3. Old Axeman

    Old Axeman Gold Member Gold Member

    784
    Jan 10, 2015
    Something that works well for me when I pull a axe haft, I first pull any of those damn metal wedges-there are some great techniques already shared here. To relieve the wood wedge, I drill it out with a tapered twist bit. The bits I use are a part of wood screw countersink bits. They come in different sizes so you can match to the wedge size. I remove the countersink collar and use just the bit. This will do little , or no, damage to the kerf in the Hickory haft because of the tapered profile of the bit. I bought the ones I like about 20 yrs ago. They are marked -FULLER, HS, USA and then the size. I also used these bits when I rehung some late 18c- early 19c tang wood chisels with some new Koa handles.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
  4. Hickory n steel

    Hickory n steel Basic Member Basic Member

    Feb 11, 2016
    I rehung the slasher hatchet I got yesterday from Agent_H, the hang was extremely open and the handle was not actually as tight as it appeared, it knocked right out.

    Boy I tell ya changing the angle of a head that keeps trying to guide itself into a set of grooves it's created is a real pita, but I got the hang closed as best I could and set the head down 1/2" further in doing so.
    [​IMG]
    I then cross wedged it instead of putting that step wedge back in.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Agent_H

    Agent_H Gold Member Gold Member

    Aug 21, 2013
    Looks good!
     
    Miller '72 and Fmont like this.
  6. Meek1

    Meek1

    154
    Aug 11, 2019
    Very Nice!
     
    Miller '72, Fmont and Hickory n steel like this.
  7. Meek1

    Meek1

    154
    Aug 11, 2019
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Well I unhung a few last night.
     
    Miller '72, Fmont and A17 like this.
  8. Hickory n steel

    Hickory n steel Basic Member Basic Member

    Feb 11, 2016
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Some nice heads and handles there.
    Btw if you use the hotlink for forums you'll get the full sized image.
     
  9. Meek1

    Meek1

    154
    Aug 11, 2019
    Copy that, thank you. I was wondering what I was doing wrong.
     
    A17 and Miller '72 like this.
  10. junkenstien

    junkenstien

    755
    Feb 15, 2017
    3 1/2lb Knot Klipper on a 34 inch handle.Bowman handles are the best wood of the brands I have seen available local.Talked to a real nice lady down there and she said to a custom spec is a 500 dollar set up and 1000 piece order.10.50 apiece for 32 inch handles.Went up2 bucks since last year locally to 14 for a 36 inch handle.
     
    A17 and Fmont like this.
  11. AaronGP

    AaronGP Basic Member Basic Member

    118
    Jul 19, 2014
    I’d love to hear more about this process.
     
  12. ithinkverydeeply

    ithinkverydeeply Gold Member Gold Member

    950
    Dec 17, 2018
    For sure, I’d be happy to answer specific questions but the process is quite simple. I really like that it is a true black oxide coating and you can make it just black black, not blue. I’ve seen some high end tomahawk manufacturers advertising a “Caswell Black Finish”.

    You don’t have to do the muratic acid bath unless you have penetration issues which you probably won’t unless your steel is polished. But if you have hit it with some abrasive it should be fine.

    I’ll hang the piece on a coat hanger and dip in in the black activator for around 45-60 seconds. You watch it happen and can re-dip it if you want but around a minute seems to be the sweet spot. If you do it for more than two minutes it could smoot but it hasn’t happened to me. And depending on which sealer you use shouldn’t be a problem.

    Unless you are doing a spot touch up, you need to basically have all the rust off of it first or it will rust.
    That sounds weird, maybe better said, you have to have the black oxide off of it first or the existing black oxide will turn to red oxide.

    I’ve experimented extensively with both their sealers and like their penetrating sealer best. It leaves an “oily” finish but can be wiped off with a rag to a dull finish.
    The dry finish sealer leaves a higher gloss sheen almost like it was lacquered.
    You can dip the dry sealer but run marks are a pain, it is better sprayed on with an airbrush. But either was you get a higher gloss than I prefer.

    I like the oily finish anyway. I’ll use gin oil on them periodically, or axe wax, or whatever.... all give the velvety satin sheen I like.

    (The dry finish is good to, maybe I shouldn’t knock it, it is durable.)

    You can get the steel blackening kit directly from them for around $70 and as far as I can tell it’s a lifetime supply.:) (You can strain the activator if it gets bits of crud in it.)
    https://www.caswellplating.com/metal-finishing-solutions/black-oxide-kits.html
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
    Fmont, AaronGP, Yankee Josh and 2 others like this.
  13. AaronGP

    AaronGP Basic Member Basic Member

    118
    Jul 19, 2014
    All right, well it's time for me to share my first project. This is an axe I've been working on for a couple of weeks, and that I did most of the work on before I found this thread. If I were starting it right now, with everything I've learned from you folks, I'd do a few things differently. Nonetheless I'm pretty proud of this piece. This is my first time hanging any sort of tool, let alone an axe.

    It's a single bit Plumb, weighing in at about 3.5 lb. for just the head, and at about 4.5 lb. for everything assembled. It was listed as a Rockaway pattern, but I've picked up from some of things I've read from you all that Plumb's rounded lugs could make this a Jersey instead. If anyone can provide a proper identification I'd appreciate it. The head, when I got it, had a pretty ugly grind that looked like it was done with a power tool, and some fairly bad mushrooming on the poll. The latter I filed more or less flat, while the former I sort of remedied with files and stones. It's not the prettiest grind, but it is sharp and I'm looking forward to testing it out. There's an interesting triangular stamp in the head, opposite the Plumb logo, that I'd be interested in knowing the meaning or origin of if anyone knows. The head is mounted on a 36 inch, curved haft from Tennessee Hickory, which is coated in about seven layers of boiled linseed oil, and everything has been treated with a beeswax, carnauba wax, and citrus oil mix. The leather strike guard is something I made from scratch and wanted to include for a couple reasons. For one, I just like the way they look. Second, this is going to be a trail work tool, meaning it may be overstruck either because of inexperienced hands or dicey footing. Third, the strike guard makes for a more comfortable hand-hold when carrying it miles along a trail. Finally, the cover is something I got from Big Bear Tools in Canada. I have one on a Hultafors boys axe and so I got one for this axe. Now, having done the strike guard, I think I want to make a matching mask, so that will be a "soon" project.

    So how about some photos?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'll also mention that my workshop is pretty much just my coffee table in my living room and a folding table on my 8' x 8' patio. I'm thoroughly jealous of all the workshops I see in the backgrounds of photos, but I make do :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2019
    davemonkey, J.seaux, quinton and 9 others like this.
  14. AaronGP

    AaronGP Basic Member Basic Member

    118
    Jul 19, 2014
    The first thing I thought of when I saw this was something along the lines of, "my goodness! He put a pommel on an axe!" At first it looked really weird but then I realized that it made me think of the swords I used in my longsword days and then it just seemed natural and right.
     
    ithinkverydeeply, rjdankert and Fmont like this.
  15. Fmont

    Fmont Gold Member Gold Member

    814
    Apr 20, 2017
    That's a Jersey, but it can be hard to tell a Plumb Rockaway from Jersey on pics unless you get a completely lateral shot. The Rockaway has rounded lugs, but so does their Jersey (I think some had pointed, as well). When you have them side you can see there is the slightest curve to the beard and it's a much smaller waist on the Rockaway.
     
    Yankee Josh, A17, AaronGP and 2 others like this.
  16. Meek1

    Meek1

    154
    Aug 11, 2019
    Very well done, it's obvious you put a lot of time and thought into each step. Thank you for sharing and putting yourself out there. Look forward to see your next project. The hand made strike guard is a nice touch. Makes it just that much more personal.
     
    Fmont and ithinkverydeeply like this.
  17. rjdankert

    rjdankert Gold Member Gold Member Basic Member

    Mar 10, 2011
    I guess I did.:D:D

    Although, I call it "options".


    Bob
     
  18. ithinkverydeeply

    ithinkverydeeply Gold Member Gold Member

    950
    Dec 17, 2018
    Great job Aaron! Particularly for a first ever hang!
    Looks well fitted, I’d be surprised if you needed that metal wedge. You may consider foregoing that in the future, if you think it detracts from the look or compromises the grain. I tend to only use them on hammers but I’m sure others have their own opinions.
     
    Yankee Josh and Fmont like this.
  19. crbnSteeladdict

    crbnSteeladdict

    622
    Jul 31, 2017
    https://bladeforums.com/threads/plu...ntucky-vs-plumb-jersey.1647027/#post-18850243
     
    A17 likes this.

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