What Do You Like About M390 Steel?

Razor

Razor

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I know several of the knives I have bought recently have this steel and 204P steel. Reate and Les George. I was wondering what you all like about this steel? It seems to hold a good edge and I mostly just strop it on a diamond coated leather strop to bring the edge back to hair popping sharp.
 
If you ask me if the heat treat is done right I can't anything there isn't to like about M390,Spyerco right now seems to have the best heat treat out of the factory knives that I have that use M390.

I like M390 for the same reason's you do and also because I don't have to worry so much about or patina with M390,I watch a guy on youtube called outpost76 and he has most of the knives he test's sent out for for rockwell hardness testing,and M390 with most company's is all over the board for hardness I think he did one that was either 52 or 54 which is no where near what you can push M390 to.

I've always said I would it if M390 replaced S30V is the standard steel that most factory knife makers go to.
 
If you want edge retention it is a great steel ... and I like the way it performs with a thin edge on smaller blades makes a good slicer ... but I have to say I was disappointed in it on bigger knives or on knives that may see harder uses as I have chipped it a few times. For my uses it doesn't quite suit me ... but I am in no means trashing it. I think for most people and most normal cutting chores it is a solid stainless option ... it's just a matter of fitting what the steel does well to personal needs. I really like it in my Lionsteel and Viper slip joints. I've leaned towards the likes of Cruwear , M4, etc... over it in locking folders and I seem to prefer non stainless steels on my fixed blades ... but Nathan Carother's D3v (extremely stain resistant and tough doesn't cover it) has spoiled me on fixed blades.
 
My Reate chipped when my grandson cut it into concrete while cutting weeds. It is M390.
 
Razor said:
My Reate chipped when my grandson cut it into concrete while cutting weeds. It is M390.
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Don't cut concrete with M390? Haha!

I enjoy m390/20cv because it's not too difficult to sharpen and holds an edge for a good amount of time.
 
Razor said:
I know several of the knives I have bought recently have this steel and 204P steel. Reate and Les George. I was wondering what you all like about this steel? It seems to hold a good edge and I mostly just strop it on a diamond coated leather strop to bring the edge back to hair popping sharp.
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Yes, this is why I like it too. Easy to sharpen. Easy to touch up. Polishes nicely. Great bitey edge that lasts.

Disclaimer: My only experience with M390 is Spyderco. The M390 Delica is so perfect in my eyes that I have to keep telling myself that there is no reason on Earth to have two of the same knife.
 
Boring stuff my m390 knives, holds an edge forever for my uses. It was my introduction to super steels which is what I thought D2 was a minute ago. Cuts like the scalpels I used back in college. Turns out that some scalpels are made with the stuff. The Benchmade's I own have not needed anything but honing 5 years after establishing my own edges at 40 degrees to ~13 microns / 1500 KME diamonds (810 n 710). I feel the difference between m390 and my BM940-1501 in 20cv. The m390 feels creamy and 20cv ever so slightly slicker, but others might use other synonyms. I'm getting ready to take m390 down to 34 degrees to see how long those edges will hold for me. If there is a problem, it is not with m390, I just want pocket knives thinner behind the edge.
 
I was originally attracted to M390 because of its 20% Chromium content. I like good corrosion resistance and Chromium content in knife blades doesn't get much better than 20%.

After owning a couple knives with M390 blades I've come to appreciate the edge retention characteristics as well.
 
Railsplitter said:
I was originally attracted to M390 because of its 20% Chromium content. I like good corrosion resistance and Chromium content in knife blades doesn't get much better than 20%.

After owning a couple knives with M390 blades I've come to appreciate the edge retention characteristics as well.
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Hmm, good points as always Railsplitter
 
I love its edge stability with extremely thin edges. I also like how it seems to perform well regardless of whether you are finishing more toothy or polished...and I appreciate how it's not all that difficult to sharpen even without diamond stones provided you are willing to take your time (whereas S90V and ZDP-189 both drove me nuts before recently getting diamond stones.) And while corrosion resistance isn't massively important to me, its outstanding corrosion resistance deserves a shoutout. M390 and K390 are truly special steels.
 
scottc3 said:
Boring stuff my m390 knives, holds an edge forever for my uses. It was my introduction to super steels which is what I thought D2 was a minute ago. Cuts like the scalpels I used back in college. Turns out that some scalpels are made with the stuff. The Benchmade's I own have not needed anything but honing 5 years after establishing my own edges at 40 degrees to ~13 microns / 1500 KME diamonds (810 n 710). I feel the difference between m390 and my BM940-1501 in 20cv. The m390 feels creamy and 20cv ever so slightly slicker, but others might use other synonyms. I'm getting ready to take m390 down to 34 degrees to see how long those edges will hold for me. If there is a problem, it is not with m390, I just want pocket knives thinner behind the edge.
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My Benchmades in m390/20cv (contego, Griptilian, custom crooked rivers) are all 28-30 degrees, and hold their edges just fine. Those 2 steels, and M4, are my favorites.
 
Railsplitter said:
I was originally attracted to M390 because of its 20% Chromium content. I like good corrosion resistance and Chromium content in knife blades doesn't get much better than 20%.

After owning a couple knives with M390 blades I've come to appreciate the edge retention characteristics as well.
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Just remember to take a look at the Carbon % as well. Just because it has 20% Chromium doesn't necessarily mean that it has excellent stain resistance. The more carbon %, the more chromium carbides, the less "free chromium", the less stain resistance. For example, ZDP189 has 20% chromium but a full 3% carbon, and is not a very stain resistant steel by any stretch. It will patina relatively easily. But there aren't many steels out there with exceptionally high carbon counts, so the chromium % (13% or better) is a good indicator of a stainless steel.

AEBL has only 13% chromium, just barely making it stainless, but most of that chromium is free chromium and not tied up in a bunch of carbides, because the carbon content is roughly at the eutectoid point with ~.67%.
 
samuraistuart said:
Just remember to take a look at the Carbon % as well. Just because it has 20% Chromium doesn't necessarily mean that it has excellent stain resistance. The more carbon %, the more chromium carbides, the less "free chromium", the less stain resistance. For example, ZDP189 has 20% chromium but a full 3% carbon, and is not a very stain resistant steel by any stretch. It will patina relatively easily. But there aren't many steels out there with exceptionally high carbon counts, so the chromium % (13% or better) is a good indicator of a stainless steel.

AEBL has only 13% chromium, just barely making it stainless, but most of that chromium is free chromium and not tied up in a bunch of carbides, because the carbon content is roughly at the eutectoid point with ~.67%.
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Thank you. I did not know any of this.
 
Great steel. I like to finish at 400 then strop. As Miso said, like a pocket chainsaw.
 
I really like M390/204P/20CV because of it solid edge retention and phenomenal corrosion resistance. It's not super tough, so I usually save the polyester and polypropylene strapping for my M4 and Cru-wear work knives, but M390 is pretty fantastic when you have to cut open dozens pallets of product enveloped in polywrap. And because of the great corrosion resistance you get from M390, I can leave that knife at work all week without worrying about rust and having to put a fresh coat of oil on it.
 
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