What do you use to clean / oil / seal your sheaths?

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Mar 19, 2007
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I am giving deep thought to the care and feeding of my sheaths for my customers. Currently I suggest the Montana pitch blend line of cleaners, oils, and sealants as I have had great luck with them. I seal all of my sheaths with the MPB Leather Dressing and let it fully dry and buff before sending them out.

If I seal the inside of the sheath I use Feibings Tan Kote.

However, I am completely open to rethinking this and would like to see what all of you use for any or all of these applications. My sheaths are primarily used for woods and hunting application - although I now have a EDC line of sheaths were people are increasingly wearing them to work.


Thanks,

Jason
 
Jason I've used several products over the years that I have absolute confidence in reccomending to customers.


Cleaning: Really nothing beats some warm soapy water. I just use a little Dawn dish soap in the water. This takes care of dirt, dust mud etc. The water does not hurt the leather as long as you condition it afterwards. Its also important that you get the leather equally wet all over. I just use a wrung out rag in warm soapy water. I'll follow that by a clear water rinse with another wrung out rag. Now I can't speak to exotic leathers, no experience, but this is how I care for my saddles.

Conditioning: This is big. I genraly caution against oils or liquid conditioners. Not because they don't work but because its too easy for the customer to apply too much. I much prefer creams and pastes. While I don't have any experience with Montana Pitch it has an excellent reputation in the cowboy grapevine. I use Skidmores, RW Williams or Oakwood. Beeswax is an important ingrediant in all 3. Skidmores is made here in the US and the other two are Australian. Ya couldn't get Williams for a while but its around again and a buddy gave me a couple of cans for my birthday. All 3 are pretty much used the same. Apply to your leather, wipe off excess, let sit for afew hours (I'll usually do overnight) and then buff with a clean rag. That last step is important and often over looked by folks. If ya just apply conditioner, wipe off the excess and then going to using whatever you just conditioned they become dirt magnets. Must allow to sit and then buff. This conditionning step is absolutely vital to the life of the leather.First pair of custom boots I ordered were from an old cranky guy that made absolutely superb boots. While he was measuring me I was asking him how to care for them becuase they were expensive and as a rancher/cowboy I'm pretty hard on em. I was asking about specific brands of conditioners and he said he didn't care as long as ya put something on em. He literally said I don't care if ya put Vaseline on em as long as you put something on em. I did and those boots have a gillion horseback miles on em. They've been resoled problay 10 or 12 times and re heeled more. They still clean up nice and are my going to town boots. Another boot story. I'm on my first tub of this Oakwood stuff. Got it from Weaver. I've been very impressed with it so far. I've been using it on things including my kicking around boots. Recently we were out at the ranch and noticed one of the water troughs was over flowing. So my partner and I gather up tools and go to plumbing. We're standing in about 8 inches of standing water fixing the cow crunched supply line. About 10 minutes or so we got er whipped. We wade back to dry land. His boots are sponges and my feet are dry. I'd conditioned those boots couple of days prior as described. I was immpressed. This bears further investigation.

Sealant: I use Bagkote when I make an item and then thats it. I don't recommend people putting finish on. They don't need too. Also there is always a lot of talk about which finish is the the most waterproof, bombproof etc. I think folks miss the point. I WANT my customers to be able to put conditioner on a product. If they can't, it'll crack and its dead. I use BagKote because it makes leather look like leather not plastic and when its time you can put conditioner on. Hope all this helps
 
You could be in the leather business for 50 or 60 years and tried every concoction known or unknown but what Dave printed just above is about all you need to know,and pay particular advice to what the old boot maker said. "Put something on it"

If you follow Dave's recipe to the letter you won't have any problems and neither will your customers.

Paul
 
Yeah - but what does Dave or you know, Paul?

You both have been only doing leather for... what? 100 years combined? ;)

Thanks so much for the time, both of you. I deeply appreciate your time and expertise.
 
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You're welcome Jason. I think its only 97 or something....
 
Montana Pitch Blend sure smells good but I found it a bit too sticky and doesn't buff well so I quit using it in favor of Obenaufs. Now I have to try out some of the Oakwood stuff from Weaver, Thanks for making me spend money first thing in the morning Dave. :D
 
You're welcome Skyler! I'm really liking it so far. Couple months back we were doing a show. During some down time a buddy brought out his "warbag". Most cowboys have a warbag with em in the truck, it carrys all the things they have for trade: bits, spurs, leather items, knives etc. His warbag was a very old leather valet case, probably worth more than all the stuff he had inside and he had some nice stuff. Anyhoo it was in pretty bad shape. I had the Oakwood there and he went to putting some on this old case. Man what a difference it made. It'd a been a good commercial, one of them before and after deals. It was pretty hot so he just sat it on a table in the sun a bit and it dried up pretty fast. He was able to buff it in just an hour or two.
 
I contacted Skidmores and have them sending me a few samples of each of what they make. They seem to be very good people and they sell their product in one ounce containers which is perfect for my customers.

I will let you know what I think.

Jason
 
Good deal. Where Skidmore's really shines is in fixing abrasions and scratches. You'll like it.
 
Skyler,

How much gloss do you look for in a finish. I think MPB is a perfect mellow finish. Just below Tan-Kote and more malleable. I have carried sheaths for 7 years with it on as well and don't find it to be sticky.

But - I don't doubt your experiences - just asking.

Jason
 
I like the Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner. It has a mellow sheen, smells nice, and seems to protect pretty well. I have a pair of boots that I wore in the oilfield for two years that still look pretty nice. All I did was put some Aussie on them once a month.
 
The Aussie Leather Conditioner is what I use as a final coat, and I agree, it works wonderfully.

The first coat I use is made by Fiebings as well, its their Atom Wax, very thin liquid that penetrates very well but is not good all by itself. That is where the Aussie stuff comes in.

The pair form a wonderful team for water resistance and shine that is nice and mellow, not a plasticy sheen.
 
I usually just try for a low sheen, I dislike the plastic look that some of the Kote products give but they are good for slicking down the belt loops over dyeing them. I've been experimenting in my free time about sealing belt loops after dye since your previous question about it.
I still have a big tub of MPB, I just use it on my winter boots at that rate I expect I have about 500 years worth left.

Skyler,

How much gloss do you look for in a finish. I think MPB is a perfect mellow finish. Just below Tan-Kote and more malleable. I have carried sheaths for 7 years with it on as well and don't find it to be sticky.

But - I don't doubt your experiences - just asking.

Jason
 
I've pretty much only used the Aussie Cream. I really need to try some of the other suggestions.
 
i have a "Ben Hibben" (Gil Hibben was in business with a Benedict (?) for a few months) Jungle fighter, that I got in early 1966. Carried for 18 months in Vietnam, and a fair amount of time after that until I retired in 1991. Jumped it, took it to the field many, many times and to the best of my memory all I ever put on it was brown shoe polish and it is still good to go. Now I use Montana Pitch Blend on sheaths and Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on my boots.
 
Okay - so I have gotten in this week:

Obenauf's Oil
Obenauf's LP cream
Montana Pitch Blend Oil
Skidmore's Cream
Skidmore's Waterproofing.

I will get in some Aussie Cream as well.

I am enjoying the process - I have to say - Obenauf's is winning me over. Wonderful smell - easy to apply - I like that I can use the oil with the LP and they work well together. But we will see!

Jason
 
While doing research a couple of years ago I came across some manuals from the army detailing leather care shortly after the civil war. The most used and preferred item was neatsfoot oil. It's what I use for most stuff. But the manual stated that oils do not rot stitching when applied in proper amounts, too much causes the moisture trapped in the leather to rot the stitching, which is why it is best if you allow items like your boots to dry thoroughly and apply any conditioner sparingly. It also said that this oil will "evaporate" or leave the leather if a wax based product was not applied over it. It did not state what type of wax product, but shoe polish, obenaufs, MPB, or anything else including straight up wax will work and leave behind a good finish while sealing in the oils. Any product you use is better then none at all. Too much, in most cases is better then not enough. Use what works for you.
 
In 1967 I went to Ranger School and outside one of the buildings in Harmony Church, they had a gallon bucket and a brush. The bucket was filled with neatsfoot oil and you were encourage to oil your boots generously, as you did a lot of walking in the course, and it was thought to soften the boots, not so much for waterproofing. John
 
I need to do a full update. But - every product I have used from my list above works. The Obenauf's oil and paste combination is winning me over in terms of smell, ease of use, and end product.

More work is needed.

Jason
 
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