What fasteners are used in the LC?

JustinFournier

JustinFournier

Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
4,971
My guess is Nathan will have to answer this but if anyone else can please do!

What fasteners are used in the LC? A link to them would be ideal so I can grab the specs and hunt for an alternative. It would be good to know incase one gets lost or broken as well.

Thanks all!
 
It is a size 8-32 flat head socket cap screw. It has a 3/32 allen socket, it is a standard 82 degrees, and it is about 5/16" head diameter. This is an ANSI standard machine screw. The ones I use are 18-8 stainless steel with a black oxide coating.

I understand people want to individualize their knives, but functionally there is no real improvement to be made in this screw. They weigh 1.1 gram, so taking weight out of them won't accomplish much, they're already much stronger than the material they're holding down, and the pins take the shear on the scales so the screws are just holding them down. They're not really a potential failure point in my view and I don't see much room for improving them functionally.

Five of six get blue locktite (removable), one of six is short (front, mark side) and gets red locktite.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
It is a size 8-32 flat head socket cap screw. It has a 3/32 allen socket, it is a standard 82 degrees, and it is about 5/16" head diameter. This is an ANSI standard machine screw. The ones I use are 18-8 stainless steel with a black oxide coating.

I understand people want to individualize their knives, but functionally there is no real improvement to be made in this screw. They weigh 1.1 gram, so taking weight out of them won't accomplish much, they're already much stronger than the material they're holding down, and the pins take the shear on the scales so the screws are just holding them down. They're not really a potential failure point in my view and I don't see much room for improving them functionally.

Five of six get blue locktite (removable), one of six is short (front, mark side) and gets red locktite.
Click to expand...


There is always, always room for improvement whether functional or aesthetically. Just because you created something that is very special and perfect in most eyes, that does not mean you can justify that there's no room for improvement.
 
kc, you are in the man's forum man.

Thanks for the specifics on the fasteners Nathan :thumbup:
 
knife chop said:
There is always, always room for improvement whether functional or aesthetically. Just because you created something that is very special and perfect in most eyes, that does not mean you can justify that there's no room for improvement.
Click to expand...

Great generalization. Though seems to me there is a great divide between "room for improvement" and "reason for improvement" - particularly when one speaks of aesthetics, which basically relates to individual taste. Remove aesthetics (since it's one of those "IMHO" things) and you're left with "functional". Again, seems like Nathan adequately explained the reasons why there is no "reason" for improvement with respect to the part and it's function. At least, that's my take-away from his response to Justin.
 
^ none taken

I'm building functional tools that are optimized for performance and value. What people do to them to "make them their own" is cool and interesting. :thumbup:

edit to add: When I see an opportunity to send a little money and get more than that money's worth in performance I do it. The heat treat, the materials, the time spent refining the grind by hand etc. That's all great bank-for-the-buck and makes a better knife. I don't cut corners anywhere. But I also take care to prevent driving the cost up unnecessarily on frivolous things. That's not to say frivolous things are always not important, but I try to avoid things that don't "pull their weight". It's all about optimization.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Nathan,

It sounds like you designed the handles to be installed and left in place under normal circumstances.

When we talk about having multiple handle sets made from different materials for various conditions, is this something you support? If so, will you also be making design changes to accommodate easier removal of them?

If I consider removing red loctite on a 3/32 hex, I would just prefer to leave it in place unless necessary. Out of curiosity, why red on only this one, because it is short and subject to additional stress?

I don't find them lacking for the intended purpose. Aesthetically, with some handle colours I prefer a tumbled fastener to match the blade, where as with black handles I prefer black fasteners in most circumstances.

I realize you are busy and making changes to accommodate requests at this point is.... perhaps not the top priority.

Also, one feature of the Survive! GSO I appreciate is the ability to remove the handle, clean behind it, and replace it quickly (I use purple loctite) with perhaps even a different material. I do go through several sets on each GSO to get it just right. No disrespect intended when I mention other makers, as I do compare your work to others when I make a value judgement, which is why I am so excited to get your work in hand.

Thanks again!
 
The front pin is shorter than the other two and two standard 3/8" screws will hit each other in the middle, so I had some 1/4 black oxide 18-8 screws made. They don't have as much thread engagement as the longer screw so it's important they're run in all the way. I use red Loctite on them so if a person takes it apart down the road that side stays together.

You only have to remove one screw per pin to take it apart, the pin with a screw on it can be tapped out.

There is very little play between the pins and the holes, they're both precision machined and a tight fit, so some are pretty snug and not always easy to take apart.
 
I've had CPKs out in all sorts of conditions, fully submerged handles etc and as testament to the precise tolerances, I have yet to find anything that's worked its way in between the scales and tang.
 
knife chop said:
No disrespect intended
Click to expand...

:thumbup: Thanks for the clarification. That might have rang different in my head than it was intended on the page.

JustinFournier said:
Also, one feature of the Survive! GSO I appreciate is the ability to remove the handle, clean behind it, and replace it quickly (I use purple loctite).........

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Justin, I am familiar with the red and blue loctite. Is purple a different animal all together? I take it you're using it any time you think you might need to disassemble later. I've used blue in that circumstance, but not the purple. Is there something specifically about it that you favor? Thanks.
 
HK,

Purple is slang for loctite 222. It's for thin screws and fasteners, like 1/4" and below. Also on softer metals like aluminum or brass. It can be removed with the same tool used to assemble, so I use it on anything I know I will want to, or might have to get back into that is not a 1/4"+ steel fastener. It's what I use most often these days. It cures in 24 hours as well, so it's a breeze to work with.

With the GSO, Guy actually fits the handles in a specific position, it's possible to NOT put it back into the exact same spot as there are no locator pins or anything on it, or if you don't tighten it enough, for it to move slightly. I hate marred fasteners so I never over tighten them. I actually always order an extra set to have spares in case one comes slightly marred. Instead I get them down with a reasonable torque and rely on the thread locker to keep it in place rather than a hand measured torque to yield method people use. I also have various needle micro and escapement files for touching them up.
 
Thank you sir. That makes good sense to me. I'm not a fan of scarred fasteners either, so letting the compound do its work is a good call.
 
I've found some titanium ones, but they need minimum order quantity of 100 @ $1.XX each. So I'm not into that many for myself, and I need to confirm the length with Nathan.

I would guess, these would also fit the FK, but they are polished so would need anodizing or a satin finish as desired applied afterwards.

Anyone interested?
 
JustinFournier said:
I've found some titanium ones, but they need minimum order quantity of 100 @ $1.XX each. So I'm not into that many for myself, and I need to confirm the length with Nathan.

I would guess, these would also fit the FK, but they are polished so would need anodizing or a satin finish as desired applied afterwards.

Anyone interested?
Click to expand...
If they fit like factory ones; I'm in! We can find a good BF member to finish these if needed. I've worked with several cool guys from here.

Edit; is that 100 pcs for each screw length?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Well, they are US made, and have the right specs, I guess I could contact them for samples if we have enough interest.

On a side note, the Vintage FK, the dark brown one just changed hands again, and this time it has ti fasteners in it. So there are suitable ones out there. I'm trying to track them down.
 
Consider me in for whatever hardware you find. I know you won't select anything less than the best.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Nathan,

Hate to be a bother on this issue and if you want I can PM you, do you think I could get around using 5 x 3/8ths and 1 x 1/4 and just use 6 x 5/15ths?

There are grade 2 ti from china available in lots of 50, for like $20. A lot less money but probably less quality as well. I will keep looking.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top